Running way too rich

[granny_rocket]

1985 GS550-L with 2 carb setup.
Recently soaked and cleaned thoroughly. When reassembled, the air bleed (or whatever you call them) screws were set to 3.5 turns out as per factory specs. I did not adjust the floats or sync the carbs yet.

When I start the bike, it starts with no choke and there's a lot of smoke coming out of the pipes. Im assuming the carb is extremely rich. Is this a sign of the floats not being adjusted or could this just be that its not synched?

How do I adjust the floats properly. Obviously I have to dump the fuel, pull the carbs again and invert it to measure the float, but how exactly do I measure it and with what? The measurement is in millimeters....is there a specific gauge or tool I can get from the dealer or will any standard ruler do?

Also, if I make my own sync tool as I have see elsewhere, where can i get fittings to adapt a vac. line to the ports? Would a dealer have this as well or is it most likely something I have to order?

I would like to get this done today if at all possible....I WANT TO GO RIDING!!! THE WEATHER IS SOOOOO NICE OUT!!!

Thanks Much in Advance!!!
-Al Conforti

 

[Jason]

Obviously I have to dump the fuel, pull the carbs again and invert it to measure the float, but how exactly do I measure it and with what? The measurement is in millimeters....is there a specific gauge or tool I can get from the dealer or will any standard ruler do?

I used a drill bit and some masking tape. Tape out the depth the thing is supposed to be, and use the bit to check against each float. Make sure you remove the gaskets or (as I did) subtract a bit on your tape job for gasket thickness... Measure with the floats pushed in.

 

[Anonymous]

Obviously I have to dump the fuel, pull the carbs again and invert it to measure the float, but how exactly do I measure it and with what? The measurement is in millimeters....is there a specific gauge or tool I can get from the dealer or will any standard ruler do?

I used a drill bit and some masking tape. Tape out the depth the thing is supposed to be, and use the bit to check against each float. Make sure you remove the gaskets or (as I did) subtract a bit on your tape job for gasket thickness... Measure with the floats pushed in.

Do you mean the spring loaded tip of the float valve that contacts the float assembly should be compressed when taking the measurement? This has always been a "grey" area to me.

 

[Anonymous]

Grey for me, too. Seems to me that the Haynes manual for the '79 GS550 says to measure with the tip compressed. But then I was browsing a factory manual for a Kawasaki dirt bike and, IIRC, it said to measure just when the tab and tip came into contact.

I can't remember for sure, but it seems to me the Suzuki service manual for my '80 GS1000 said to measure when they came into contact, not when compressed. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, please, but I remember being surprised because it seemed that the Suzuki manual and the Haynes manual were suggesting different ways of measuring.

Still a bit of a grey area for me, but I know when I adjusted to the way Haynes says on the 550, the bike stopped smelling like it was running way rich.

Michael

 

[granny_rocket]

Thanks,
but do you think the rich idle mixture is coming from an incorrect float adjustment or is it idle mixture settings out of whack?

What should the idle mixture screws be set to from the factory (since I don't have a factory manual). I was told it was 3.5 turns out - is that a full 3.5 turns, or is that 3.5 (1/2) turns? Currently I backed the screws out to a total of 5 full turns out to see if it would help with the rich situation and it doesn't....

If you back the screws out, shouldn't it let in more air? or is it backwards. I just assumed since they were called the "Air Screws" that they controlled air. Should I go back and turn them in some.

Once I settle the extreme rich condition, i'll sync the carbs!

Thanks Again,
Al Conforti