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Rust in Gas Tank

  • Thread starter Thread starter slamonte
  • Start date Start date
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slamonte

Guest
I have a 1979 GS1000E. The gas tank was rusted and the three stage cream coating was applied. It appears I still have rust in the take due to the rust colored fuel coming out of the petcock.

I'd like to fix the tank if I can do so inexpensively. Otherwise I need to find a good deal on another tank. Does the wise gurus of this forum have any ideals for repair or where I can find replacement.

People have told me they soaked there bare tanks in CLR or Lime Away for a couple of days and then rinsed very thoroughly. This worked for them. I'm concerned that the hardening cream system might gum up if I try it.:confused:
 
take it to a radiator shop...they can fix you up...$70~ish. Never use kreem. POR15 only.
 
Radiator Shop

Radiator Shop

Ditto on the radiator shop. Typically they will blast all rust out, clean thoroughly, and then line it with a permanent sealer. A good shop will also pressure test after cleaning, but before sealant, just in case there emerges pin holes. Most often if there are tiny pin holes, the sealant will take care of them, but if they are too large, the shop will braze the holes, then apply the sealant. I was quoted around $120 for a tank that had significant damage, pin holes and rust.

Same as makenzie71 said; never ever use kreem. If it even works, it will only hold for a short time, and then you really got a mess on your hands!

One thing to keep in mind, though, if there are pin holes, the tank would most likely need to painted afterwards. Hope this helps...

Norseman
 
If you want to go the econcomy route get a can of MEK, methyl ethyl ketone I think, and wash the tank out with it. I don't see your location, but here in the US we buy MEK at Ace Hardware. Next you get the polyphosphoric acid, also from Ace and use it to remove the rust. It will eat up rust but not hurt good metal. I've used etching or Electrostatic Rust Removal on my Aspy and it worked great. I don't believe in sealants, don't want to add anything that might wind uo in the carbs.
 
Radiator shop

Radiator shop

I gave up and went to the radiator shop after derusting with Behr Concrete Etcher (acid) twice. The second time revealed pinhole leaks. The shop ended up doing a significant amount of repair to seal the tank. It was then lined with an epoxy sealant. Unfortunately, the repairs were extensive enough that I ended up repainting the tank. I know it is suuuucchh a cliche, but :

$95 at the radiator shop
$150 at the paint shop
No rust in my dang fuel system - priceless
 
rust in gas tank

rust in gas tank

I took my tank to a powder coater. He was going to use an acid to eat all the rust out then spray a sealant on the inside and weld up any pin holes that developed. That service runs about $60 to $80 depending on how bad the tank is.
 
Thanks, I'll order the POR15 becuase I have used it befor on a cars rus proble.

Steve
1979 GS1000EN
 
slamonte said:
I have a 1979 GS1000E. The gas tank was rusted and the three stage cream coating was applied. It appears I still have rust in the take due to the rust colored fuel coming out of the petcock.

I'd like to fix the tank if I can do so inexpensively. Otherwise I need to find a good deal on another tank. Does the wise gurus of this forum have any ideals for repair or where I can find replacement.

People have told me they soaked there bare tanks in CLR or Lime Away for a couple of days and then rinsed very thoroughly. This worked for them. I'm concerned that the hardening cream system might gum up if I try it.:confused:
Click to expand...

Does anyon e have any ideals for replacing the tank?
 
buy a new one!

buy a new one!

alpha-sports.com shows they are available for a mere $443.78. Whether that is correct I don't know.

I also don't know if that comes painted or not. My guess is not.
Part# 44110-49020-YD8
 
I just did my tank, Put muratic acid in it, shook the tank for about 10 minutes. Then I stuck a hose in the top and took off the duct tape I put over the fuel sender hole and petcock hole and let it wash out. After that I put a bounch of baking soda in the tank to neutralize the acid. Shook that around for a few minutes and then dumped it out. After that I put fogging oil into the tank so that it did not rust again (after you muratic acid something it rusts really fast unless you put something onto it. Anyway after I sprayed oil into the tank I assembled it and filled the tank with gas. Good as new.... :-D. Wear gloves and make sure you dont breathe the muratic acid fumes in or you will die :shock:, well its not good for you. It is holding up great so far.

Nick
 
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