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Anonymous
Guest
i have a gs 1000. i drained and filled the drive at the rear tire....no prob. but how do i check the level of the primary area at the engine? i see a 12mm bolt that says oil level. is that it?
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You say you see the "oil level" bolt. Lube oil is suppose to be up to that level. About best thing I have figured out is to add the gear oil slowly till it starts to come out that bolt hole.
You also see the fill plug on top - front of the gear box? And drain plug?
Good that you noticed that the front has a seperate gear box. I didn't notice that for a couple years, my previous GS650G didnt have the seperate gear box up front.
And welcome to GSR.
You also see the fill plug on top - front of the gear box? And drain plug?
Good that you noticed that the front has a seperate gear box. I didn't notice that for a couple years, my previous GS650G didnt have the seperate gear box up front.
And welcome to GSR.
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SqDancerLynn1
Guest
If you just got the bike I would change the gear oil, You have to remove the shifter and the cover to access the drain bolt. Yes the 10 mm bolt is a level indicator. The plug on the top is the fill hole. Slowly fill until it starts to come out of the 10mm bolt hole
DO put it on the centre stand. This is to ensure the bike is level when refilling it, and you get the correct amount of oil into the case.
Yes, you have to pull the shift cover, and then open the bolts. Takes a few minutes, but you only do it once a year.
since you are doing that, check the tires and rear wheel.
Since you are doing everything for the first time, I STRONGLY recommend checking the rear final drive splines and adding a smear of grease to them, as many owners neglect this.
Yes, you have to pull the shift cover, and then open the bolts. Takes a few minutes, but you only do it once a year.
since you are doing that, check the tires and rear wheel.
Since you are doing everything for the first time, I STRONGLY recommend checking the rear final drive splines and adding a smear of grease to them, as many owners neglect this.
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Stephen
Guest
gear oil
gear oil
I just changed the oil and rear gear oil in my 82 gs1100GK. I was wondering about the area behind the shifter. I wondered how to drain this area. There is a bolt under the engine almost directly underneath the filler cap on top. I was wondering if this was the drain, but decided to ask first. How do I check the real splines?
Stephen
Medfield, MA
gear oil
I just changed the oil and rear gear oil in my 82 gs1100GK. I was wondering about the area behind the shifter. I wondered how to drain this area. There is a bolt under the engine almost directly underneath the filler cap on top. I was wondering if this was the drain, but decided to ask first. How do I check the real splines?
Stephen
Medfield, MA
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SqDancerLynn1
Guest
Checking the splines requires removal of the rear wheel,
Re: gear oil
Re: gear oil
Yes, it is the drain. As Lynn has stated, you have to remove the rear wheel to check the final drive/splines.
That can be done with the bike on the centrestand, and, on a GK, you really should make it a point to remove the rear mudguard that is bolted at the bottom of the rear fender. It will make wheel removal considerably easier.
Before starting this job, get yourself a piece of 2 x 6 and place it so that you roll the centrestand onto the 2x6. If you find that difficult, use more 2x6 and roll at least the rear wheel onto them. Put the bike up, and then remove the other piece(s) of 2x6.
The Clymer book I have says you have to remove the mufflers, but I don't do that. On a G or a GL, the job is fairly straightforward, but on a GK, you have to remove the saddlebags. Loosen the brake retaining rod, and lift it up and tie it out of the way. Loosen the nut on the axle, and look carefully at the spacer washers on the right, rear side . They must go back on in the same way they come off.
Remove the shocks.
Punch out the axle. Again, watch the spacers carefully.
Pull the wheel to the right, bending it towards the right side of the bike as you go, then, pull it towards the back and slide it out.
If you have not taken off that mudguard I mentioned, you will now see why it is recommended, as the wheel will likely still be under the bike and you will be getting frustrated with it.
If the splines are dirty, clean them and the matching drive gear with Varsol and wipe everything completely dry.
Once the rear splines are clean, just put some grease on your finger and smear it across every spline. You don't need a lot of grease, but you must get every gear face, as once put back together, they remain meshed in the same relative position, so the grease does not get spread around.
Re: gear oil
Stephen said:
Yes, it is the drain. As Lynn has stated, you have to remove the rear wheel to check the final drive/splines.
That can be done with the bike on the centrestand, and, on a GK, you really should make it a point to remove the rear mudguard that is bolted at the bottom of the rear fender. It will make wheel removal considerably easier.
Before starting this job, get yourself a piece of 2 x 6 and place it so that you roll the centrestand onto the 2x6. If you find that difficult, use more 2x6 and roll at least the rear wheel onto them. Put the bike up, and then remove the other piece(s) of 2x6.
The Clymer book I have says you have to remove the mufflers, but I don't do that. On a G or a GL, the job is fairly straightforward, but on a GK, you have to remove the saddlebags. Loosen the brake retaining rod, and lift it up and tie it out of the way. Loosen the nut on the axle, and look carefully at the spacer washers on the right, rear side . They must go back on in the same way they come off.
Remove the shocks.
Punch out the axle. Again, watch the spacers carefully.
Pull the wheel to the right, bending it towards the right side of the bike as you go, then, pull it towards the back and slide it out.
If you have not taken off that mudguard I mentioned, you will now see why it is recommended, as the wheel will likely still be under the bike and you will be getting frustrated with it.
If the splines are dirty, clean them and the matching drive gear with Varsol and wipe everything completely dry.
Once the rear splines are clean, just put some grease on your finger and smear it across every spline. You don't need a lot of grease, but you must get every gear face, as once put back together, they remain meshed in the same relative position, so the grease does not get spread around.
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Anonymous
Guest
tghank u guys. i have not tried yet, but printed out the replies and will try soon.
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Poot
Guest
I would suggest buying a clymers or some such manual, where they also show you diagrams of what to do, so no possible mishaps.
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focus frenzy
Guest
I don't know about the GK but on the regular 1000 and 850G's they came with a lever and cable in the tool kit that is used to compress the front fork, allowing enough clearance for the wheel to clear the rear fender.
also when you look at the right side passenger foot peg, you will notice a hole that lines up with a hole in the bottom of the right side of the swing arm.
you loosen the shocks and pop them off the top mounts and pick up the swing arm and put one of the tool kits screw driver bits through the hole to hold the swing arm up.
Suzuki really did their home work when the designed the G's and the accessories for the G's.
also when you look at the right side passenger foot peg, you will notice a hole that lines up with a hole in the bottom of the right side of the swing arm.
you loosen the shocks and pop them off the top mounts and pick up the swing arm and put one of the tool kits screw driver bits through the hole to hold the swing arm up.
Suzuki really did their home work when the designed the G's and the accessories for the G's.