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Should I do it myself?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Zack
  • Start date Start date
Z

Zack

Guest
Hey all, so I have always been aware of a slight oil leak on my GS850 and the shop said it was the valve cap or something like that.
So they quoted me about 280$ to fix that along with a valve adjustment..
Now Im young and for me that is a very substantial amount of money, can I do it myself or would it be a bad idea?
And if not the valve adjustment, can I fix the oil leak?
This has been brought more imminently to my attention due to the sizzling/crackling sound I heard upon dismounting my bike when i got home from work last night.
Annd to make matters worse it is not possible to see through the oil level window to see how much oil I need to add.
Please help :/
 
Your bike is 35 years old and is going to need work on a regular basis. Since funds are tight I strongly suggest you either start doing your own maintenance, or sell the bike. You will destroy the engine if things like the valves aren't tended to on a regular basis, and fixing oil leaks just goes with the territory. You should search out Basscliff's website if you haven't already received the link, and look through the list of required maintenance for your bike. If you are not onboard with doing the work, you are putting yourself at risk in various ways, including your safety. No joking matter.
 
I would prefer to do it myself, Ive done everything else up to this point.
I've changed the tires, done the carbs, oil, oil filter, various cables, lights etc.
Not knowing what specialty tools may be needed for the valve adjustment I wasn't sure about it.
From looking at this http://www.cycleorings.com/gs850valve_adjust.pdf the gasket seems like an easy thing to replace.
The valve adjustment seems much more difficult though, but from what I hear and what you are saying it needs to be done, and done regularly.
Heres a pic of whats going on:
 
Zack. Buddy. If you've done all that work you said, a valve adjustment should be simples! You have all tutorials and service manual to guide you through and we're here to help you if you have any questions. Hardest part of the whole thing is having the bike down for maintenance for a week while the new shims come in. It's not something that has to be done all that often. Once every couple years, maybe? I don't remember the exact interval. But if it hasn't been done, it should be. It's the second most neglected thing on these old girls after the carbs and intake boots.

As for "specialty tools":

Here's your valve shim changing tool (optional, some people like the zip tie method better): http://www.z1enterprises.com/ItemDe...alve+Shim+Changing+Tool+Suzuki&item=MP08-0017

And these are the feeler gauges you want. This particular set claims to ship from the US, so they won't take 2-3 weeks to arrive from China like mine did. http://www.ebay.com/itm/17-Blades-S...624?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4854b80608

A 1/4" torque wrench is a stonking good idea too if you don't want to booger up your valve cover and/or bolt holes upon reassembly.

Good luck!
 
Zack, BassCliff, the owner and admin of the site http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/, owns an 850 himself. You will find more information on your model than for any other, including the valve adjustment procedure.
I recommend that you download the manual if you have not already done so, read the procedure so many times that you can recite it by memory, purchase a metric feeler gauge set (very inexpensive), a new valve cover gasket, and get ready.
Contact gsr member Steve and get a copy of his valve adjustment spreadsheet.
Join the shim club here on GSR. IDK who runs it, but someone here can give you that information.
Remove the valve cover, and check the valve clearances. Do this several times so you are comfortable checking the clearances. Then use Steve's spreadsheet to record your findings.
Once you have joined the shim club and are comfortable measuring the valve clearances, begin the procedure. Take your time, go slowlly, and you will be fine.
 
Thank you guys very much for the information and links.
Looks like I've got some research to do.
 
Zack said:
Thank you guys very much for the information and links.
Looks like I've got some research to do.
Click to expand...
Lots of info out there, Zack, especially for the 850.
You absolutely must learn to wrench on your own bike; shops are very expensive and are not known for doing quality work.
 
I got some real bargain feeler gauges once. Extra thick for extra value, they were.
 
And be very careful cleaning off old gasketry...dont scrape or gouge into the machined mating surfaces on the head or the cover. Go easy with a new sharp utility knife blade and skin the old gasket off. Be sure its ALL OFF too, otherwise its a spot for a future leak.

On the black half moon cam end caps, take them out of the head, clean the notch and the plugs with some acetone or carb cleaner on a rag and let it dry. Then use a thin smear of RTV or sealer ( I like Three Bond 1184 myself ) in the U shaped notch, apply the half moons and level them across the head.

Next smear a little across the tops of the half moons and just past the ends. Apply the gasket and cover. This makes sure the half moons seal to the head, at the ends where they meet the head, and across the top where the gasket touches them.
 
Everything should be here today, then its shim time :)
I'm also replacing the oil pan and gasket, hoping I can clean off the oil fill window while im in there, if not im thinking a 5 second kerosene run might do it.
 
You can also replace the oil level window. It's still available and quick and easy to replace. Another tip for you...it may be obvious but I see people forget all the time...remove all the spark plugs to make turning the motor over easy. A long breaker bar type ratchet will help as well. I like the zip tie method myself. Very easy and works great.
 
Zack said:
Hey all, so I have always been aware of a slight oil leak on my GS850 and the shop said it was the valve cap or something like that.
So they quoted me about 280$ to fix that along with a valve adjustment..
Now Im young and for me that is a very substantial amount of money, can I do it myself or would it be a bad idea?
And if not the valve adjustment, can I fix the oil leak?
This has been brought more imminently to my attention due to the sizzling/crackling sound I heard upon dismounting my bike when i got home from work last night.
Annd to make matters worse it is not possible to see through the oil level window to see how much oil I need to add.
Please help :/
Click to expand...

To know your bike is to work on your bike. Once you find out how easy these bikes are to work on, you'll become an expert like the rest of here...well most of us lol.:p
 
Everyone starts off knowing nothing. If you get frustrated, give it a day or two, then come back and post here and we'll help!

In addition to BassCliff's guide, I have a guide of my own regarding valve clearances. Between the two, it should be easy as cake!

Advice: Don't skip the tools. Get the proper ones. When I first started, I was like "oh, I have a few toolboxes of tools from my dad and grandpop, I don't need anything." I was wrong :-P
 
Just an update, valve gasket and cam plugs are supposed to be here today.
I have my feeler gauges and I called the Suzuki place and they said they had valve shims. I'm off tomorrow so hopefully I can get this done :)
Also, I have a oil pan and gasket is it as simple as taking the old one off (once oil is drained of course) and the new one on?
 
Zack said:
Also, I have a oil pan and gasket is it as simple as taking the old one off (once oil is drained of course) and the new one on?
Click to expand...

Yep. Pay attention to the old gasket material (make sure it's all off else you will have leaks). You can remove the oil pickup screen and clean it if you want too, but it might be difficult to get the screws out.

http://guglielmo.us/mc/oil_pan.html
 
Could I suggest you beg, borrow or steal a 6" vernier calipers or a 1" od micrometer because....... the thickness of the existing shims may not be legible, even if it is they may have worn or someone could have ground them down because they couldn't be bothered getting new ones.
When you finish up keep a record of what thickness is on what valve for the next time.
 
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