You have to hurt them to help them
You have to hurt them to help them
I can't find the thread where I first learned about doing this, but my 78 GS550 was the same as both of you described (until yesterday!). I too tried hosing down the area where the drive cable goes in, to no avail. Here's exactly what I did to fix this:
-Remove individual instruments from pod.
-Using a sharpie, draw a line around the orange plastic "case" part of the gauge where you will end up cutting the case. On my tach, I chose to cut about 1 inch down from the black finish ring / glass; On the speedo, I cut just below where the odometer reset pin hole is. I also drew a line with the sharpie to reference where to align the case halves when going back together.
-I have an old Craftsman band saw at work. Putting the instrument up to the blade sideways, I carefully cut into the case just enough to go through the plastic, rotating around the circle I'd drawn previously until I'd cut all the way through. Then, I pulled the halves apart and set the glass half aside. I unscrewed the dial itself from the back case half and set the case aside.
-I hosed down the inner workings with contact cleaner (make sure you get the type that's safe for plastic), and then used a rag to physically wipe off the two round "thingamajigs" that rotate at an angle to each other. I found a bit of congealed grease there that seemed to be causing problems. I made sure to spray out the little pin / bushing just behind the dial, too.
-To test my repair, I removed the tach cable from the bike; Then physically pulled the cable out of the sheath. Be sure not to lose the little seal at the engine side. I put the instrument end of the cable in the instrument, put the engine side of the cable into my cordless drill / driver, set the drive direction on counterclockwise, and gave it a try. It would only raise to about 3000 rpm on the tach and about 25 mph on the speedo, but it would now get there quickly and return to zero quickly. Good to go.
-Reassembly was the reverse of disassembly, but of course, how to seal and secure it? I chose to use a solder iron with a flat "duckbill type" tip, and using small circular motions, I carefully "welded" the cut closed, providing an airtight seal. Knowing that this was not true plastic welding, and that my repair shouldn't be trusted for strength, I then used 100% silicone to apply a thin bead over all of the rejoined area. After the silicone was cured, I wrapped it with a piece of duct tape, just to be sure. No one will ever see it anyway. I suppose, in hindsight, I could've used two part epoxy instead of silicone, just didn't on this one.
My test ride was great! Now I want to try it on my GS 1000 to see if it will help with the dreaded "needle flutter" I hope this helps.
John Paster