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starter button/kill switch

  • Thread starter Thread starter lurch12_2000
  • Start date Start date
L

lurch12_2000

Guest
As I posted in another thread, I've been working on reviving an '82 1100E that's been sitting for 3 yrs. My question has to do with what the title says. After taking apart the starter button/kill switch assembly and cleaning it, I'm still having issues.
When the starter button works(intermittantly) with the kill switch in the on position, I get spark at the plugs and the starter cranks as expected(bike even started and ran once last night!). When the starter button doesn't work (most of the time) and I jump the starter solenoid with a screwdriver with the ignition on and kill switch in the on position, I get no spark.
Suspecting an electral problem for sure, I want to make sure that I'm not assuming that I should still get spark at the plugs by jumping the starter solenoid with the screwdriver and bypassing the starter button....? Is there something I'm missing?
thanks
 
Last edited:
Do you suspect it is the contacts on the actual switches? I replaced mine with ones off the shelf at radio shack, soldered them in and good to go.

Also not sure on the wiring you got but as far as spark is concerned I did the coil relay mod on my bike so its a it different...

These are roughly the ones I used, took a bit of customizing to fit but not bad.

pRS1C-2160454w345.jpg

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062545

pRS1C-2266162w345.jpg

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103602&clickid=prod_cs
 
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lurch12_2000 said:
... I should still get spark at the plugs by jumping the starter solenoid with the screwdriver and bypassing the starter button....? Is there something I'm missing?
Click to expand...
If the key is ON and the ignition fuse (the third fuse) is good, you should have spark if you short across the solenoid terminals.

The only difference between that and pushing your starter button is that you are providing contact across the terminals instead of the guts of the solenoid.

.
 
lurch12_2000 said:
As I posted in another thread, I've been working on reviving an '82 1100E that's been sitting for 3 yrs. My question has to do with what the title says. After taking apart the starter button/kill switch assembly and cleaning it, I'm still having issues.
When the starter button works(intermittantly) with the kill switch in the on position, I get spark at the plugs and the starter cranks as expected(bike even started and ran once last night!). When the starter button doesn't work (most of the time) and I jump the starter solenoid with a screwdriver with the ignition on and kill switch in the on position, I get no spark.
Suspecting an electral problem for sure, I want to make sure that I'm not assuming that I should still get spark at the plugs by jumping the starter solenoid with the screwdriver and bypassing the starter button....? Is there something I'm missing?
thanks
Click to expand...


The way you describe the symptoms makes me think it might not be the starter button thats not working right ...
It sounds like it may be the kill switch thats intermittent, or some of the wiring somewere in the circuit going to it.
 
Steve said:
If the key is ON and the ignition fuse (the third fuse) is good, you should have spark if you short across the solenoid terminals.

The only difference between that and pushing your starter button is that you are providing contact across the terminals instead of the guts of the solenoid.

.
Click to expand...

I checked the fuses...all OK...even swapped the 20amp main, put in by a PO, back to the suggested 15amp fuse. All lights come on...headlights, instrument, green neutral, taillights, and blinkers work. It seems like when the starter button worked the one time when the plug was pulled, did it show a healthy spark at the #1 plug (and the bike started and ran on 3 cyl's til I shut it off).

Maybe I'll pull the switch apart and check again. But you confirmed what I thought...while jumping the solenoid I should still get spark in addition to the starter cranking the engine over....unless I have a faulty kill switch as bakalorz suggested. I may just wire it together temporarily and bypass the kill switch mechanism.
 
lurch12_2000 said:
But you confirmed what I thought...while jumping the solenoid I should still get spark in addition to the starter cranking the engine over....unless I have a faulty kill switch as bakalorz suggested.
Click to expand...
Yep. If you follow the wiring diagram, power comes through the fuse, to the kill switch. After the kill switch, the wire splits. One side goes to the starter button, the other goes to power the coils and ignitor box (if you have a newer bike) or the points (if you have a skunky, old bike :D). You could verify that you have constant power at the coils by connecting a small lamp to the powered terminal. That would tell you if power is coming through the kill switch.

Whether you have points or electronic ignition, you won't see sparks until the engine is turning over, but you won't even see them then if there's no power after the kill switch.

.
 
Got back to the bike tonight....
I pulled the starter button/kill switch assembly off the h-bar and untwisted the orange wires for the kill switch, diddled with it a little and left it hanging free. Pulled the choke out to full, covered the intake box opening with tin foil (air filter box off the bike to have access to the battery) and she cranked right over with the starter button. After a few seconds, she fired up, ran a little rough at first and then ran nice and steady at 3k rpm after I removed the tin foil and just left the single layer of rag held in place with a sturdy rubber band over the opening.
3 years since this baby had run!!...sounds pretty mean with the Yoshi exhaust...and after the smoke cleared from the WD-40 I previously squirted in the cylinders, I let it run for a solid 20 minutes at a nice steady 2k rpm at half choke, blipping the throttle a few times with only an occassional pop. Only problem is that I noticed gas start dripping out of the airbox drain hose and eventually the bike sputtered a little and stalled out (flooding?).
I assume I have a stuck float valve that's not seating properly (unless you all think otherwise?). Tried the tapping on the side of the carbs trick and a prayer to seat it, but it keeps dripping.
Well, good news - IT RUNS, bad news, time to REMOVE the carbs again!

BTW, when I removed the Yoshi, between using a sturdy cable as a snake, the shop vac and finally hot water to rinse it out, I got a small bucket worth of acorns, mouse hair, leaves and who knows what else out of that baby before hanging it up to "dry" and remounting it!!!
 
a pic too

a pic too

here's the old beauty...ok, it's still a work in progress!

100_2773.jpg
 
chef1366 said:
How's the clutch safety switch?
Click to expand...

What clutch safety switch? :)

No, there doesn't seem to be one since I can start it with the clutch out. Out of habit I usually pull the clutch in when starting. What do you think about the gas dripping from the intake box hose? ...dirt on the float needle?
 
Last edited:
lurch12_2000 said:
What clutch safety switch? :)

No, there doesn't seem to be one since I can start it with the clutch out. Out of habit I usually pull the clutch in when starting. What do you think about the gas dripping from the intake box hose? ...dirt on the float needle?
Click to expand...
Probably dirty carbs, bad float needle and seats or bad o-rings at the inlet valve.
 
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