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starter clutch replacement

  • Thread starter Thread starter jdobrosky
  • Start date Start date
J

jdobrosky

Guest
having some trouble replacing the starter clutch on the 81 1000. ive searched here and on Cliff's site and all over the internet and i cant find anything useful. the problem is i dont have the "special tools" so how do i hold the rotor steady while i take out the bolt?

bolt with arrow is what i need to remove
pic for reference:

IMG_0100-1.jpg
 
Put a socket or wrench on the opposite side underneath your signal generator cover and hold it there while you break it free on that side. You'll need a second set of hands to do that.

Make sure you have the correct tool to pull that rotor off as it's a pain in the arse (read my thread about my alternator).

Just be careful.
 
Use an impact if possible.. Or put it in gear and have someone hold the brake...
 
so i tried to put a wrench on the bolt under the signal generater, and all it did was loosen that bolt, not the bolt i wanted loosened. so i decided to try to drop it in gear and hold the brakes on by my self. and i almost fell over. it was just to much to do by my self. im gonna try again tomorrow with my brother in law's help
 
starter clutch dramas....

starter clutch dramas....

i rebuilt mine on a 1980 gs1000e... ,,,,,USE a rattle gun,,,,and then screw in a hex head 50mm long set screw hex head... thats got thread all the way put a slight champer on the front of thread so it goes in nicely ,,,/grease it spin it in then use rattle gun ,,it should bounce straight off ... when you rebuild te starter clutch ,,make sure the sheet metal cover has no dints or rough edges around ,,,lightly stone it ..to smooth it out regards oldgrumpy :)
 
jdobrosky said:
having some trouble replacing the starter clutch on the 81 1000. ive searched here and on Cliff's site and all over the internet and i cant find anything useful. the problem is i dont have the "special tools" so how do i hold the rotor steady while i take out the bolt?

bolt with arrow is what i need to remove
pic for reference:

IMG_0100-1.jpg
Click to expand...

I purchased an adjustable rubber strap wrench, similar to an oil filter wrench, except that the strap is inifintely adjustable within its circumference. Clean the outside of the rotor, affix the wrench, and then you push the wrench with your left hand while pulling the socket with your right hand.

Yes, I am a gorilla. A breaker bar over the socket wrench makes it easier.

 
In gear, pump up the rear brake and wedge a hammer handle or big screwdriver handle in between the foot lever and frame to hold the brake. Now your free and off the bike to get some real leverage on the socket..and it will help to use a cheater pipe as well. Its a lefty loosy righty tighty bolt by the way.
 
When people on here say put it in gear, the higher the gear the better. In your case 5th.
 
After just doing mine and posting the info in my Alternator Chip thread, I'm having a hard time believing it's this hard for you. Have someone hold the socket and breaker bar on the bolt head on the signal generator side and ensure it doesn't move while you use another socket and breaker bar on the alternator side to break it free. If it doesn't break free right away with some serious movement, use the impact others suggested or put some heat on it for a bit (there is supposed to be red loc-tite on the bolt threads). I didn't need the heat, did it the same way above, and broke that bolt free pretty quickly (after making the mistake of not holding the opposite side at first).

Of course, if you didn't have a second person to help than yea it will be much much harder until you get them there.
 
On my 4 valve, I use a long 12mm bolt screwed into the sparkplug hole to keep the crank from turning while I break the bolt/nut loose. The 2 valve engines plugs go in at an angle so I wouldnt recommend it.
 
You need to lock the motor up. Put the bike in gear, run a broom handle through the rear wheel below the swingarm and use a bungie cord hooked to each side of the broom stick but over top of the swingarm (this will keep the broomstick from falling out of the wheel ;) ) This should keep the engine from spinning and doesn't require another person or extra hands :)

A breaker bar will help, but be careful. The last thing you want to do is round that head off. Keep in mind also that even when you get the bolt out, the rotor isn't going to slide right off. It's a press fit, so you're gonna either need a puller or the right long bolt to press the rotor off the crank snout. (I missed what bike this is, there were a couple of different designs on how they're to be removed)
If your bike has a bolt on the end of the rotor, you'll need to find a longer bolt (i can't remember what it is, though cowboy will know) to thread into the rotor, and a socket that is small enough to fit inside the rotor hole but large enough to NOT get wedged into the threads on the crank snout. Pay close attention to that. Basically you're using the socket simply as a lever for the bolt to push against which will pry the rotor off. DO NOT EVER HIT THE ROTOR WItH ANYTHING!!!
The magnets are fragile and even a rubber mallet will shock em hard enough to shatter. If they shatter, you're done.

Again, sometimes a bit of heat from a propane torch applied to the rotor hub (not the crank snout directly) will help. But be sure you cleaned the oil off well or have an extinguisher handy ;)
 
Heat it to a dull red to get the rotor off. Like they said earlier, red loctite needs to be hot to release its grip...
Curt
 
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