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Stator, R/R...or both??

chuckycheese

chuckycheese

Forum Sage
Past Site Supporter
Charter Member
Hey guys, you all know me, but now I've got new issues. My bike was giving out of charge after riding a couple of hours after a full charge of the battery so I knew something wasn't quite right.

The battery checks out just fine and is only a couple of months old. I did the R/R check and it shows only about 12.8 volts at 5000 RPM...even though I had a 13.2 charge on the battery before starting it up ....so, I figured the stator isn't working...right???

I also did the checks on the R/R and it didn't even register. In addition, I had 2 fried wires (one positive and one of the negatives ones..which was worse).

I'm thinking I need to replace both the stator and R/R and add new wire connections....

Am I thinking about this correctly??? If so, I'm thinking about calling Rick's in the morning..what thoughts do you have about that?

Thanks, very much, as always!!....and I appreciate your help very much.:-D
 
Same symptoms here. I just watch the mechanic take mine away for service.
 
chuckycheese said:
Hey guys, you all know me, but now I've got new issues. My bike was giving out of charge after riding a couple of hours after a full charge of the battery so I knew something wasn't quite right.

The battery checks out just fine and is only a couple of months old. I did the R/R check and it shows only about 12.8 volts at 5000 RPM...even though I had a 13.2 charge on the battery before starting it up ....so, I figured the stator isn't working...right???

I also did the checks on the R/R and it didn't even register. In addition, I had 2 fried wires (one positive and one of the negatives ones..which was worse).

I'm thinking I need to replace both the stator and R/R and add new wire connections....

Am I thinking about this correctly??? If so, I'm thinking about calling Rick's in the morning..what thoughts do you have about that?

Thanks, very much, as always!!....and I appreciate your help very much.:-D
Click to expand...
More than likely it's just the R/R. Try these tests.

With the r/r removed from the bike, fins pointing up and terminals facing you, the terminals from left to right will be A, B, C, D, and E.
Negative probe on A and positive on B you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on C you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on D you should get 6-7.5 ohms.
Negative probe on A and positive on E you should get 50-70 ohms.

Then switch the negative probe to terminal B and place the positive probe on A, C, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.
Switch negative probe to C and positive to A, B, then D, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to D and positive to A, B, then C, you should get no reading. Positive on E should read 6-7.5 ohms.

Switch negative probe to E, positive to A, B, C, and D should give no reading.

The numbers have to be within range. It doesn't take much of an out of range reading to lead to the wrong output.


Stator Test

The testing procedure for my 700, yours will be the same, involves disconnecting the three stator wires and running the bike at 5,000 rpm. You then place the probe of a multi-tester in each of the three wires. + probe in one terminal and - probe in another. Keep the + probe on the same wire and check the other two with the - probe. Then move the + probe to the next wire and check the other two with the - probe. Again + on the remaining wire. Check each of the wires against the other two this way. I'm not sure what voltage you should look for on an 1100, my 700 calls for 80 volts AC. You should get consistent readings on each attempt. These are the three yellow wires under the gas tank.You want to test the ends of the wires coming out of the starter cover under the carbs.

You can do a continuity check using the same procedure. With the motor off and the tester set to check for continuity check each wire against the other two. You should get a tone if the stator is okay as far as any breaks. You can test for shorts by testing each with one probe on the wire and the other on the frame. If you get a tone or meter reaction you have a short.
 
Thanks

Thanks

Hey Billy, as a matter of fact I "searched" for some of your posts and did as you suggsted on the R/R....I have a brand new multimeter and it didn't even register on the R/R. Also, as I said, when I checked voltage while at 5000 RPM. it was dismal ( considerably less than 13 V).

Don't you think I should replace both..or do you think it's possible that one is bad and not, necessarily, the other?????
 
chuckycheese said:
Hey Billy, as a matter of fact I "searched" for some of your posts and did as you suggsted on the R/R....I have a brand new multimeter and it didn't even register on the R/R. Also, as I said, when I checked voltage while at 5000 RPM. it was dismal ( considerably less than 13 V).

Don't you think I should replace both..or do you think it's possible that one is bad and not, necessarily, the other?????
Click to expand...
Check the stator as per the test. No point in spending money on something you don't need. Are you doing the Honda R/R swap? Did you have the probes on the terminals just like the test calls for. You can't reverse them.
 
Yes

Yes

I think I did everything just right but I assumed that the stator wasn't good because of the fact that the voltage transferred at 5000 RPM is not even 13 Volts on the R/R...Could the stator still be good? Thank you for your help~~:-D
 
chuckycheese said:
I think I did everything just right but I assumed that the stator wasn't good because of the fact that the voltage transferred at 5000 RPM is not even 13 Volts on the R/R...Could the stator still be good? Thank you for your help~~:-D
Click to expand...

Yes, the stator could still be good.
 
Thanks

Thanks

Thanks, Boon....(by the way, I grew up in Roseburg and graduated from the U of O)...I've also very much enjoyed your messages on this subject so maybe I'll just order a R/R and hope for the best...I just hope, in doing so, I don't ruin it as a result of also needing to have replaced the stator...any chance of that????8-[
 
chuckycheese said:
Thanks, Boon....(by the way, I grew up in Roseburg and graduated from the U of O)...I've also very much enjoyed your messages on this subject so maybe I'll just order a R/R and hope for the best...I just hope, in doing so, I don't ruin it as a result of also needing to have replaced the stator...any chance of that????8-[
Click to expand...

I worked in Dillard (near Roseburg) about 1972. I lived in Eugene before that from about 1968.:)

You should test the operation of the stator as explained by
Billy Ricks said:
Stator Test

The testing procedure for my 700, yours will be the same, involves disconnecting the three stator wires and running the bike at 5,000 rpm. You then place the probe of a multi-tester in each of the three wires. + probe in one terminal and - probe in another. Keep the + probe on the same wire and check the other two with the - probe. Then move the + probe to the next wire and check the other two with the - probe. Again + on the remaining wire. Check each of the wires against the other two this way. I'm not sure what voltage you should look for on an 1100, my 700 calls for 80 volts AC. You should get consistent readings on each attempt. These are the three yellow wires under the gas tank.You want to test the ends of the wires coming out of the starter cover under the carbs.
Click to expand...

As instructed, disconnect the R/R from the yellow stator wires and test them with the AC volts scale. If all three legs are putting out about 80VAC at 5,000 rpm, then the stator is operating properly. The readings should be consistent on all three legs. If the stator is operating OK, it will not harm the new R/R.
 
Update

Update

The poor old girl flunked every test (voltage output was inconsistent and only about 15 volts at 5000 RPM).:( The parts are in the mail....8-[

Thanks, again, Billy and Boon!:-D
 
chuckycheese said:
The poor old girl flunked every test (voltage output was inconsistent and only about 15 volts at 5000 RPM).:( The parts are in the mail....8-[

Thanks, again, Billy and Boon!:-D
Click to expand...
Oh well, at least you'll have piece of mind.
 
True

True

That's very true!! Through the years, I've read so many posts about problems with R/R's and stators....I guess my turn was bound to come and once I replace them, I think I should be good for many more trouble-free miles. I ordered my stuff (both Rick's) from Dennis Kirk and will hope to get the job done as soon as the parts arrive![-o<
 
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