straight spring replacement

[RichDesmond]

I'm not sure I agree with that although I know you have more experience than I. I found it quite easy to measure the exact amount. I use something like a dip stick method.

If you're measuring the volume of oil that you're putting in, yes, you can measure that quite accurately. The problem is that's not the parameter that directly matters. What does matter is the volume of air in the forks. That affects the amount of progressivity in the final spring rate (steel spring + air spring) of the fork, which is very important. Measuring the oil level is the best way to do that.

 

[Guest]

I'm getting ready to do this on my 1100e. I have new seals, retaining rings, dust covers and Sonic springs. Does the forks have to be completely disassembled for this task?

Since I didn't see this addressed, it is pretty challenging to change fork seals without taking the forks apart and if you are going that far you might as well pull them apart to inspect the bushings for wear as well.


Mark

 

[oldGSfan]

I just completed this on my '82 1100E, replaced bushings and seals. I bought the Suzuki inner bolt removal tool that I could have made, it worked but not as well as a bolt on a length of all-thread as recommended elsewhere. So that was $25 down the drain. It's messy and a bit tedious but not that hard. I found that assembly flat is the key to not dropping things inadvertently, I found.

 

[Guest]

Since I didn't see this addressed, it is pretty challenging to change fork seals without taking the forks apart and if you are going that far you might as well pull them apart to inspect the bushings for wear as well.


Mark

Yes thank you. I did in fact disassemble the forks in the end, it wasnt that big of a chore and the tool aa breeze to knock together with the all thread and a bolt tacked to end. I inspected and cleaned everything before installing the new seals and dust covers...Im actually here to lookup how much fork oil to add. I took the advice of others here and JB'd the holes in the upper tubes for the air equalize system since I went with Sonic springs. I want to get em ready to install tomorrow as I go forward with getting my list completed for this 1100.

 

[RichDesmond]

Yes thank you. I did in fact disassemble the forks in the end, it wasnt that big of a chore and the tool aa breeze to knock together with the all thread and a bolt tacked to end. I inspected and cleaned everything before installing the new seals and dust covers...Im actually here to lookup how much fork oil to add. I took the advice of others here and JB'd the holes in the upper tubes for the air equalize system since I went with Sonic springs. I want to get em ready to install tomorrow as I go forward with getting my list completed for this 1100.

Set the oil level to 120mm, using the method outlined in the instructions. Any questions, just ask.

 

[Guest]

Set the oil level to 120mm, using the method outlined in the instructions. Any questions, just ask.

Are you saying 120mm from fluid to top of fork tube with fork fully compressed? I converted 120mm to be 4.72 inches, I used the stock manual and have it at 8.5 inches of space but they are not on the bike yet so if it's supposed to be the 4.72 inches then I will do that tomorrow before installing them. Am I following your advice correctly ?

 

[RichDesmond]

Are you saying 120mm from fluid to top of fork tube with fork fully compressed? I converted 120mm to be 4.72 inches, I used the stock manual and have it at 8.5 inches of space but they are not on the bike yet so if it's supposed to be the 4.72 inches then I will do that tomorrow before installing them. Am I following your advice correctly ?

Yes, basically you're measuring the air gap. Fork fully compressed, spring and spacer removed.
There should have been instructions with the springs with all the details.