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Stuck screws

  • Thread starter Thread starter cmroche
  • Start date Start date
C

cmroche

Guest
Ok, so I am having a bit of an issue with stuck bolts on my bike. I have been replacing a lot of the wire connectors and the ignition unit on my bike. The bolt which grounds to the frame of the engine near the drive shaft on the left side, and the three screws in holding the points plate on the right side are all stuck, one of them is actually stripped from the PO.

It will be fairly clear that these screws will not really work any longer once they do get out, which means I have to get new screws (not an issue), however my real problem is that I am not sure how to get them out and not do any damage to the parts around them.

Anyone have suggestions? I though I saw a tool once that grip and cuts into the head of the bolt to remove it, I will look for one of these too.
 
Should I perhaps be using something like a little bit of never cease when I put the bolts back on the bike? Well the new ones I mean. I know this is a common practice where rubber is not involved on a car (di-eletric grease where rubber is involved) to stop screws from gouging the shaft, and also not getting stuck like this.
 
Answered my own question, looking at getting an impact screw driver :)
 
An impact screwdriver is a good tool to have, but I don't have very good luck with them for some reason. I have better success with a small hammer and a punch that has a short, pointed tip. A long pointed tip tends to simply tunnel into the screw head and destroy it. A very short tip will do a nice job of digging into the side of the screw head, and forcing it to break loose, at which point any screwdriver will turn it. Set the point of the punch straight against the outer edge of the screw head, and tap it lightly until it digs in, then change the angle of the punch till it is trying to turn the screw in the direction needed, to loosen it. I have better results with light taps till the point has dug in a bit, then increasing the force of the hammer until it breaks loose. I don't know that this method has ever failed me, regardless of whatever else I tried that didn't work. As to anti-seize, I definitely recomend it. I don't remember the brand or exact name of the stuff I use, but it's a heavy bodied paste with a large amount of copper in it. Almost looks like copper powder suspended in an oil base. The stuff is tremendous! I use it daily in my aircraft maintenance duties. EVERY single exhaust system bolt that I remove goes back in with a dollop of anti-seize, every spark plug, all bolts and nuts. It does not affect the locking force of a lock nut or bolt, but simply does not allow the metals to corrode and "weld" together like they seem to. Racking my tiny brain here to think of the brand or part number.. seems like Permatex and 3M both make a version. Just remembered the number on the can... C5-A. Great stuff. WHEN you're all done with screw removal, do yourself a favor and get stainless allen-head screws for replacement. You'll appreciate the quality and ease of removal down the road. G'luck :)
 
A hand impact driver will not help much if the heads are already too far gone. Get a set of ez-outs just in case (had to use them for all the cam end cover bolts)... And a punch as described by Dave Danger... You should have all these things at your disposal.
 
On the points plate if you have to Just drill the head off of the screw Their should be enough left to remove it
 
I've done several things to get stuborn screws out including the things mentioned above; impact driver, drilling the head off, using a punch.

I have to admit that the most successful thing I've done was using the impact driver before I chew the screw head up beyond recognition. At the first sign of screw or bolt stuborness, I reach for that wonderful invention and the rest of my day goes much better. :D
 
The punch will work if the head is already too far gone for the impact driver. I prefer a cold chisel to a punch, but prefer the impact driver over all. When using an impact driver be sure to use a bit that fits perfectly.
 
I don't even bother to try to get those soft and useless screws off these old bikes. Get a drill and extractor bits and remove them right from the start. It saves you all the trouble of stripping them out and trying to remove them before you have to extract them anyway.
 
Just another 2 cents worth from my experience... Extractors are my very last resort, and even then I spread my left hand on a vise head and pound it for a bit with a ball-peen hammer to help me think of something better (I eat with my right hand). Consider that extractors, of any brand or type, are harder than a drill bit. If you happen to break off an extractor in a stuck fastener, you are well and truly screwed. There is not a drill bit manufactured that will at that point, drill into the extractor so that you can try and remove it from the stuck fastener. I have done it, I have screamed loudly. I agree that the best time to use an impact tool is before the head becomes useless from too many attempts with a poorly fitting screwdriver tip. But the advice on making sure the tip fits well applies at all times, not just when attacking a stuck screw. None of this is to say that extractors can't be useful, just that they can quickly compound your difficulties.
 
My 3 cents worth...
Of the 20 or so screws I needed to remove, only 2 of them came out - even using an impact driver. If I could have gotten even half of them out, I may have agreed with Dave. I spent hours trying to remove them when it could have been minutes with an extractor. I've never broken an extractor.

But that's the value of the forum - different points of view.
 
Exactly! :) I'd love to shake the hand of the man who's never broken an extractor! Maybe some of that technique would rub off :)
 
bolts

bolts

Go to sears and buy the rounded off head extractors, for the elect. drill version, tap one over the head and use a rachect and socket to unscrew it, its like a socket with teeth in it, has 6 sizes has never failed to remove any screw, and there is no beating on the part, 19.95 some times on sale for $9.95 besure and get the set for the drill cause there thin walled and get into tight spots better than the ones for a rachect
 
I'll hafta try that on my next stripped out countersunk screw :)
 
extract

extract

I was able to remove a counter sunk screw with one, if it has any thing it can grab it will, I just put it in a drill and it kind of ate in to the suface an backed it out, it will also remove studs if you can match the size, but for serious counter sunk screws I us my tig welder and weld a small stud to it an that my friend has my but* covered 8O
 
Question for you experts from a beginner...

Does the temperature of the engine, metal, aluminum have anything to do with getting stuck screws loose??

Suppose you had a "kinda-stuck" screw... the kind that you could get with an impact driver... Would it be easier or harder if the metal was hot or cold??

In other words, I know I'm going to have to get some old stuck screws out in the near future... Should I do it when the engine is hot, medium, or cold??
Or, according to science... and your experience... does it make NO difference at all?

Would using "Liquid Wrench" in advance, help at all?? Thanks
 
This is exactly what I use. The set comes with drill bits and matching extractors. Maybe I've just been lucky, but I don't see how you could break one if you use the proper size - I always use the biggest one possible.

PS Dave - I'm from Seattle, and when we say 'how bout them Dawgs' no one is smiling. :)
 
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