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The bike stays in drive when i pull the clutch in. 1981 1000G

  • Thread starter Thread starter gdayjr
  • Start date Start date
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gdayjr

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Rebuilding a 1981 GS1000G.
I have the engine back in the frame and connected to the drive shaft.
When i run through the gears, everythink clicks in just fine.....BUT
When i pull the clutch in, it does not disengage the drive.

There is no oil in the engine yet, as i have to fit a new gasket on the clutch side anyway, not sure if that's relevant or not.

Would this be normal?
I did not see anything awry when i checked inside the clutch cover.
 
I'm no expert but I'm thinking that attempting to operate a wet clutch dry might be giving you the issue you're having and may damage the clutch. Or I could just be all wet.
 
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You should soak the friction plates in oil before installing them. That may or may not be the problem though. Check a parts fiche to make sure you have all the parts and that they are in the correct order. When you pull the lever back, do you feel the tension of the diaphragm springs? How much free play do you have in the lever? The gap before you feel engagement should be somewhere between 5-10 mm.
 
Just to make sure I'm understanding this correctly:
- you don't have oil in the engine because you need a clutch gasket. That is not a problem for this operation. However, ... you DO need to have the clutch cover installed to be able to check clutch operation. The missing thickness of a gasket will affect the cable adjustment, but will at least let you know that it works.

What exactly happens when you pull the clutch lever? If it operates smoothly, but with virtually no resistance, you likely need to preset the release mechanism at the clutch cover. Start at the top, adjust the clutch cable for maximum slack. Move to the bottom, where the cable screws into the bracket on the engine case. Remove the screw from the clutch arm, pull the arm off the shaft. Rotate the shaft counter-clockwise as far as it will go, put the arm back on, tighten the screw. Adjust the cable at the lower mount until there is very little slack, then move to the lever on the handlebar to fine-tune the slack. You should have proper operation now.

.
 
This was a running bike before the restoration.
There is no oil in the engine due to the sump being removed for a good clean up and inspection of the gunk in it.
The clutch cover is in place, as is a gasket.
The lever has all of the feel you would expect, and the lever on the top of the housing moves as expected, but the drive does not disengage, i am hoping it will come good when i fill the engine with oil.
All gears work as expected including neutral.
 
"I did not see anything awry when i checked inside the clutch cover."

If you had clutch cover off, chances are good that clutch arm pivot fell out of position during cover reinstall. Very little slack needed here or clutch hand lever won't have enough throw
 
I am sure it is nothing to do with the clutch lever or the connection to the pivot lever, both have the correct tension, and plenty of movement at the lever end.
I have changed nothing on the clutch during the re build.
I am hoping that it is just down to the lack of oil in the engine.
 
Oil in the crankcase isn't going to do anything to enhance the release. :-k

If it still sticks, leave the bike on the centerstand, put the transmission in gear (3rd, or higher).
Spin the engine to get the rear wheel rolling, then pull the clutch lever and step on the rear brake.

Make sure nothing is in front of the bike.

.
 
gdayjr said:
ERRR, and that does what exactly?
Click to expand...

The mechanical equivalent of giving the clutch a slap on the head and telling it to get out of bed.
Sometimes the fixes seem a little agricultural but it's a time honoured way to separate clutch plates.
 
If the clutch plates are "stuck" together, you can also free them by selecting 3rd or higher gear (engine not running), sit on the bike with both wheels on the ground, and "rock" it back and forth.
 
OK, makes sense now.
I am putting the new gasket on tomorrow, so i think i will take all of the plates out and give them a clean up.
I am thinking it is something minor, but i have not come across this situation before.
The engine has been without oilr about three months now.
This is my first major rebuild, so its all about learning.
 
My guess is post #6. If you didn't deliberately make that right with the clutch cover off, it probably isn't right.
 
Did you have the clutch apart at anytime during your rebuild? If the answer is yes then I doubt they are stuck. Soak the friction plates in a ziplock baggie in oil for about an hour before reinstalling them, but check a part fiche to make sure it's all there and is being installed in the correct order. I have found that clutches can stick together when the bike has been sitting for some time period, especially if it has old oil in it. When I have a bike like this at the shop, I rev it up in neutral and drop it in gear, then pull the clutch in immediately. Yes it can launch on you if it doesn't break free, but I'm usually working with bike that don't have center stands. You can't do this at idle as it will just stall and if it does launch instead of breaking free, I just ride it out and pop it back in neutral and try again with it revving a little higher.
 
SORTED.

I took the cover off again as i was going to put on a new gasket, and everything is where it should be.
Took all of the clutch plates out, and it was almost like they are magnetized, and sticking together.
I separated every one of them and gave them all a good clean.
They now move apart quiet freely, so i re fitted them all back to the bike.
A quick fit of the clutch cover, and every thing is working as it should.

The remnants of the old oil that had sat in there for the last 3 months, had simply held them all together.
I then went to put the new clutch cover gasket on, and low and behold yet another fleabay **** up.
When people advertise a gasket as being off a 1981 GS1000G, make sure that's what you send.
So once again, wait for a new one.

The good news is, everything works as it should, and it was just the suction of the old oil holding all of the plates together.
Thanks for all the replies.
 
Watch the lengths of the screws on that cover. If I'm not mistaken some differ in length by only 5mm and it's possible to put a long one in a short hole. It will almost close up and you could get tempted to nip it up. Don't.
 
gdayjr said:
SORTED.

I took the cover off again as i was going to put on a new gasket, and everything is where it should be.
Took all of the clutch plates out, and it was almost like they are magnetized, and sticking together.
I separated every one of them and gave them all a good clean.
They now move apart quiet freely, so i re fitted them all back to the bike.
A quick fit of the clutch cover, and every thing is working as it should.

The remnants of the old oil that had sat in there for the last 3 months, had simply held them all together.
I then went to put the new clutch cover gasket on, and low and behold yet another fleabay **** up.
When people advertise a gasket as being off a 1981 GS1000G, make sure that's what you send.
So once again, wait for a new one.

The good news is, everything works as it should, and it was just the suction of the old oil holding all of the plates together.
Thanks for all the replies.
Click to expand...
Hmmmmm, now where did I hear that before? Oh I know, it was my last post in this thread.

I have found that clutches can stick together when the bike has been sitting for some time period, especially if it has old oil in it.
Click to expand...

Do yourself a favor and put the friction discs in a ziplock of fresh oil while you're waiting for that new gasket. It doesn't take much oil if you vacuum the air out of it. The oil will be drawn to the disk material and saturate it. This isn't just a suggestion, it is a recommendation, just like putting oil on bearings and cam lobes. Why risk the possible unnecessary wear.
 
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