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To lean or not to lean

  • Thread starter Thread starter Killer2600
  • Start date Start date
K

Killer2600

Guest
Alright I'm fairly knowledgeable and know some stuff (thanks to this forum) but I'm at an impass and don't know what to do.

End of last season, in the cold, I pulled the carbs and drained the bowls with the intention of going through the carbs. Well winter passed and I only managed to open up the float bowls and clean out some powdery rust colored stuff. I threw the carbs back on and fired up the bike which at first didn't run so great but now it seems to run like it did at the end of last season, when cold. Specifically it idles at 1,150 rpm after getting off the choke and the revs blip up and drop down without hesitation (no-load) just like they used to. Once the bike warms up the idle automatically starts going up as the engine gets warmer all the way to 1,800-2,000 area from what I've seen, and the rpms on no-load rev up seems to drop slower than when cold. That last part, from what I read somewhere here or on the internet so it may be wrong, leads me to think it's getting lean when hot. I pulled the "new this season" (about 20 miles put on them) plugs and they all have some amount of carbon build-up on the threaded part with the insulators still looking new with #3 just looking terrible with carbon on the insulator--this makes me think the mixture is slightly rich although I suppose the lean condition could be cleaning the plugs maybe.

I don't know where to go from here because I don't have the infamous intake o-rings on my bike just the carb boots. Regarding them, when I removed them over the winter I did bend some of the clamps trying to get the boots off but I bent them back to as round as I could before I reinstalled them. Just yesterday I noticed some liquid leaking from one of the boots (I dunno if it's the source of my lean when warm issue as I dunno if liquid can leak out while air leaks in). So I pulled the carbs and found some liquid on the inside of all the boots, is this normal? Do the clamps have to be perfect flawless round to seal?

I dunno what to make of this because season before last all I did was drain the bowls and the bike faired good. This season I changed plugs, kept the empty carbs inside, cleaned the bowls, and it's acting worse than when I neglected it.

Sorry for the long post but I know "my bike doesn't run right" isn't descriptive enough for any good answers.

P.S. my tank has some (3) dents from falling off the bench and the PO and I know not to drill or weld gas tanks without proper skill/training/equipment so does anyone know where I can get this fixed for not a yacht load of money in the SE michigan area? I don't need the tank painted or anything just banged/pulled out and made as smooth as possible.
 
Killer2600 said:
End of last season, in the cold, I pulled the carbs and drained the bowls with the intention of going through the carbs. Well winter passed and I only managed to open up the float bowls and clean out some powdery rust colored stuff.
Click to expand...


Rust in the carbs means you have rust in the tank. Even if the carbs are spotless, they will plug up in short order with a rusty tank.

I suggest you take care of the tank properly using a Por-15 kit, or find a radiator shop in your area that can do the job for you. While that is getting done, pull the carbs and do a proper rebuild including changing out all the internal O-rings with a kit from cycleorings.com. Oh, and a valve adjustment is in order if you haven't done one in the last 5000 miles.:cool:
 
Nessism said:
Rust in the carbs means you have rust in the tank. Even if the carbs are spotless, they will plug up in short order with a rusty tank.

I suggest you take care of the tank properly using a Por-15 kit, or find a radiator shop in your area that can do the job for you. While that is getting done, pull the carbs and do a proper rebuild including changing out all the internal O-rings with a kit from cycleorings.com. Oh, and a valve adjustment is in order if you haven't done one in the last 5000 miles.:cool:
Click to expand...

A reply wow awesome stuff, your right I do have rust in small amount in the tank guess I know what that powdery stuff was now. Yea after posting I went ahead and tore into the carbs, just gotta do the final separation and dip.

Gotta a question when I took the main jets out I noticed two were missing washers, how important is it that I have them? Same with the float needle screen, one is missing?

Good idea on the valve adjustment, I did one last season but I might as well do it again since I'm waist deep into making the thing run right.
 
if your idle raises when warm and comes down slow when warm it is usually a vacuum leak problem, you should order the intake orings from cycleorings as well. and maybe some new boots if yours are kinda stiff and old.
 
kilog55 said:
if your idle raises when warm and comes down slow when warm it is usually a vacuum leak problem, you should order the intake orings from cycleorings as well. and maybe some new boots if yours are kinda stiff and old.
Click to expand...

Good idea's although my bike doesn't have the dreaded intake o-rings like other poor souls. :p I did have to get a couple new boots due to the old ones having some cracks.
 
did not know that, mine looked exactly like the ones on cycleorings.com cept mine were not split but they were flat.

learn something new everyday maybe i should get a 750 :dancing:
 
Killer2600 said:
A reply wow awesome stuff, your right I do have rust in small amount in the tank guess I know what that powdery stuff was now. Yea after posting I went ahead and tore into the carbs, just gotta do the final separation and dip.
Click to expand...

Rust is usually hidden on the top inner surface of the tank - there's likely more rust than you think
 
:oops: I looked at the title of this thread and thought it was a discussion on whether to take a curve or go straight. :oops:

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