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Tuning with an air/fuel meter.

I rode it tonight in cold air, it was really lean high 14, to 15's-1 at small throttle openings, I think it means the needles need to be moved back up to where they were when I got them. When I got into throttle openings where it was just running on the main jets the air fuel went to the high 12's.
 
When I was testing with the probe everything was reading rich, one day I rode with the wind behind to my left and returned with the wind to the front to my right and it was way different. I'm not sure if it was wind in the pod filters or the headwind requiring more throttle opening. It will be interesting to watch it again now that I trust the numbers.
 
I recently updated my AFR meter experience in my GS1100 with 29 smoothbores post. Tonight, I realized this thread would have been a better place to update. The probe that I made apparently doesn't flow enough exhaust to heat the sensor properly, at times the readings seemed correct but often read very rich. Recently, I made a 2.5" slip over stainless steel pipe that fits between the header collector and muffler and welded an O2 sensor bung into it. It now reads more reasonable numbers.
 
Today I put 80 highway miles on the GS1100 with the air/fuel meter working, it was around 68 degrees F and a nice ride. The most often observed cruising ratio at most speeds was around 12-1, when I turned into a 3/4 headwind it leaned to around 12.4-1 This is with the 36 flatslide Mikunis and oval K&N's. The mains are 120 and needles in the middle slot, pilot jets are 17.5 if I recall correctly. Earlier in the week at 45* it was reading around 13-1 most of the time but that was a shorter ride and not highway speeds. Oh yeah, a Kerker 4-1 header.

It did read very rich for a while after a throttle crank, Me and the cop I passed a hundred yards later were both happy that I didn't hold it open long enough to see the afr correct itself. I'm told the accelerator pump needs adjusting to start at 1/4 open and stop at 3/4 open. It seems there is an Allen screw and a crosspoint screw of some type. JIS?

I'm going to shoot for 13.4-1 that's where the best torque should be.
 
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Update, It got up to 70*F and I got in a nice 40 mile ride to see my body man about painting my car. I rode the GS and the O2 readings stayed between high 11's and low 12's, I had turned the accelerator pump down a bit and during a 70mph throttle whack, the air/fuel went a tiny bit richer and then leaned out into the low 13's at WOT around 80mph. I'm sure It never went over 80 because the speedometer said so. I may adjust the idle screws a bit but want to have a look at the plugs also. I'm thinking the main jet is good but the needles might go a step leaner. I'm burning 87 no alky gas with a tiny bit of synthetic 2 stroke oil to protect the formerly rusty gas tank and maybe the Kerker.
My 78GL1000 hates premium so I've just been avoiding the alcohol (storage and tank rust reasons) and running regular. I'm told todays gas is made to burn slow to keep catalytic converters hot, combine that with high octane and the gl spits out the intake.
 
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