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Turn signal switch assembly-GK with self cancel

  • Thread starter Thread starter Giblet
  • Start date Start date
G

Giblet

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I dropped my turn signal switch while opening it to look for a problem and have firgured out where most of the pieces go but have the longest spring left over and I can't figure out where it goes. Anyone got pics by chance [-o< .
 
Yes, it's good fun putting these switchblocks back together, hmm? :wink:

If I remember correctly (and there's a problem right there), the longest spring runs laterally above the 'ramp' that holds the small ball bearing.

If you're still having no joy, send me an email and I'll dismantle the spare switchgear I have in the shed, and see if I can send you some photos.
 
NO JOY! After church this afternoon I found myself missing one short spring that goes under one of the contacts, and I still don't know where that long spring goes. Won't fit (as far as I can see) where you said. Got mad and decided to take a nap. Think I know where to find another switch for parts and/or pics tomorrow.. The Flying Banana looks cool. I'll get back there tonight to look at all your pics. I'll email you tomorrow if I can't get thata other switch. Thanks for the help.
 
Yes, it's good fun putting these switchblocks back together, hmm? :wink:

If I remember correctly (and there's a problem right there), the longest spring runs laterally above the 'ramp' that holds the small ball bearing.

If you're still having no joy, send me an email and I'll dismantle the spare switchgear I have in the shed, and see if I can send you some photos.

Got another switch off a salvage bike this afternoon and as I expected, you are correct. Helps if one looks at the switch in the correct orientation vs 180 degrees out! Must be a "reverse down under" affect. I got the switch reassembled but am still chasing the headlight (or lack of ) problem. Its good to have friends all over :wink: .
 
G'day Steve,

Glad you've got that problem sorted -- we clearly need to keep the hemisphere factor in mind!

Re. the headlight, the things I would check/ eliminate (in this order) are:
1. Fuses. Visually checking them is not enough! I have come across too many fuses which may look OK, but when you check them with a multimeter they are not conducting.
2. The globe. As with the fuses, don't trust a visual examination -- check the filaments are actually in one piece by using your multimeter.
3. The switchgear at the handlebar. Like the connectors, it gets grimy over the years. Dismantle and clean the contacts with alcohol (cotton buds are great for this). If any contacts look especially dirty, give them a little polishing with some fine (eg. 600 or 800 grade) emery paper.
4. The wire joins -- both the 'bullet' connectors and the white plastic block kind. After years these things get grimy and oxidised, and will stuff up. I've ended up chopping out all the bullet connectors from my circuits, and have simply soldered the wires at those points. Much more reliable now.
5. The actual wires themselves. Best to use the multimeter again in cahoots with your circuit diagram, and check that you've got continuity along the length of the circuitry. If there's no continuity, check the circuit part by part, to narrow down where the problem might be. Can turn out to be anything from a pinched wire, to internal fatigue from years of vibration.

All the best,
Mike.
 
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