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valve clearances

timebombprod

Forum Sage
did my valve clearances today, havent touched the bike in a while its been too cold for me to go outside (floridian). as far as my valve clearances go here they are

ex 1= .07
ex 2=.08
in 1=.04
in 2=.07
ex 3= no clue under .02
ex 4=.04
in 3=.07
in 4=.07

as far as these go should i be changing any shims other than exhaust 3. the clearance is in mm and its supposed to be between .03 and .08. should i do exhaust 2 aswell?

do these shims just get thinner making the clearance bigger or do they get tighter and the clearance gets smaller?

also part of my cam was chipped, what do i do? is it from the valves being out of spec?

 
if its super expensive to get cams fixed then i might just slap the top on and see what happens and get a nice donor engine for it, this bike has ran fine before except for the carbs being dirty.
 
What you should do is this:
1. If you don't have a digital caliper that reads down to .01 mm, go buy one
2. Go to member Steve and request his shim spreadsheet
3. One at a time, remove every shim and examine it for a 3 digit number, like 2.65 (mm). Do not rotate the motor when a shim is out. Confirm the number with your calipers. Some of those markings may have worn off.
4. Enter the shim measurements into the spreadsheet
5. Swap shims around, or replace as needed.

The shims do not wear down. The valves slowly recede into the head, and the clearance gets smaller.


So, change the under .02 and both the .04. you can go up to .1 in clearance without any issues

You can get shims from the shim club

You will need to sync your carbs when finished
 
if theyve been already cleaned and synced and not installed since should it be fine it was done by gs steve
He benched sync.....they need to be vacuum synced on your running bike.
Best to run clearances on high side, especially if bike has sat idle
 
so is anything wrong with my cams??
Wel, you said it ran ok...except for dirty carbs...so I'd correct the valve shims and button it up. Remember cover bolts only get about 8 ft-lbs of tightening,so don't go crazy!
Steve's bench sync should be real close, but after some running,it's best to do the vacuum sync
 
Vacuum syncing makes a huge difference ..... smoother running and power.
 
There is nothing wrong with your cams, they just got a little sloppy that day when casting them at the factory.
 
anyone have experience with the motion pro carb sync kit? never done it but its cheaper in the end if its not a hard thing to do, is it?
motion_pro_sync_pro_carb_tuner_750x750.jpg
 
nice nice now i know what to get, now how long should i ride it for? and also will tuning the carbs require a new sync, i want to fine tune it eventually.
 
After verifying and adjusting valve clearances, one of the first things to do is to vacuum sync the carbs. THEN to your fine-tuning. Fine-tuning the jetting with the mixture screws will not require a re-sync of the carbs. Even if you drop the bowls to change the main jets, you should not have to re-sync. Only if you break the rack apart or change valve shims should you have to re-sync the carbs.

The Motion Pro sync kit appears to be $99.74 at RevZilla. At today's exchange rate, the Carbtune is $94.14. Five bucks less and a better kit.

.
 
After verifying and adjusting valve clearances, one of the first things to do is to vacuum sync the carbs. THEN to your fine-tuning. Fine-tuning the jetting with the mixture screws will not require a re-sync of the carbs. Even if you drop the bowls to change the main jets, you should not have to re-sync. Only if you break the rack apart or change valve shims should you have to re-sync the carbs.

The Motion Pro sync kit appears to be $99.74 at RevZilla. At today's exchange rate, the Carbtune is $94.14. Five bucks less and a better kit.

.

makes sense is it because with a sync you're tuning the airflow between the carbs and then jet tuning just changes the fuel ratio if you adjust the jet sizes
 
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