STATEMENT 1
I have had voltmeter in GK faring. Is connected to the wiring in the fairing, and typicaly reads about 3/4th or almost 1 volt less than the battery voltage. I belive the most of that volt drop is between the main fuse and the ignition swtichb, and so I blame that on that splice in the wiring harness where the R/R hot wire is spliced in.
STATEMENT 2
I have the electric gloves harness connected to the aux terminals on the fuse block. The gloves total 24 watts, so less than 2 amps. And that would be when on 100% (5th position of 5). During the coldest winter ride, I typically have them on 3 for a long time and then 2 for a few minutes. On not so cold rides, might have them on 2 most the time, and 1 sometimes. At a setting of 2, I would think that would then be less than 1 amp.
I think the adjustment is a reostat (not something that cycles the heater on and off), I might check it with a meter to see if fairly linear.
SITUATION / QUESTION
WHen I have the gloves on, I notice the volt meter fluctuates around about 1 or 1.5 volts, fluctuates up and down erratically.
Not understanding how this additional load can make the voltage fluctuate.
Seems like what I have experienced (work related) where one thing effects another, and something else trys to adjust, and sets up an oscillation.
Like the r/r sees a low voltage, adjusts, then sees a high voltage, so adjusts, then sees low volt again, then adjusts again....
I dont know if the volt meter fluctuating aroaund is a problem or not, but it annoys me.
Oh, .... Just now thought of this.... I should also say that I have a honda r/r (dunnage) with a sense wire. .... and the sense line is connected to that same aux power terminal on the fuse block (and then thru relay contact so is switched off).
Seems like having this additional load taken off at the same point of the sense line, would reduce this fluctuation situation, not make it worse.
Anyway, just as a test, I will move the glove wiring harness from the fuse block aux terminals and put it directly on the battery (the harness has its own fuse, 5A), so that amperage is not going thru any of the bikes wiring, so not making any voltage drop along any of the bikes wiring.
Any words of wisdom...?
.
I have had voltmeter in GK faring. Is connected to the wiring in the fairing, and typicaly reads about 3/4th or almost 1 volt less than the battery voltage. I belive the most of that volt drop is between the main fuse and the ignition swtichb, and so I blame that on that splice in the wiring harness where the R/R hot wire is spliced in.
STATEMENT 2
I have the electric gloves harness connected to the aux terminals on the fuse block. The gloves total 24 watts, so less than 2 amps. And that would be when on 100% (5th position of 5). During the coldest winter ride, I typically have them on 3 for a long time and then 2 for a few minutes. On not so cold rides, might have them on 2 most the time, and 1 sometimes. At a setting of 2, I would think that would then be less than 1 amp.
I think the adjustment is a reostat (not something that cycles the heater on and off), I might check it with a meter to see if fairly linear.
SITUATION / QUESTION
WHen I have the gloves on, I notice the volt meter fluctuates around about 1 or 1.5 volts, fluctuates up and down erratically.
Not understanding how this additional load can make the voltage fluctuate.
Seems like what I have experienced (work related) where one thing effects another, and something else trys to adjust, and sets up an oscillation.
Like the r/r sees a low voltage, adjusts, then sees a high voltage, so adjusts, then sees low volt again, then adjusts again....
I dont know if the volt meter fluctuating aroaund is a problem or not, but it annoys me.
Oh, .... Just now thought of this.... I should also say that I have a honda r/r (dunnage) with a sense wire. .... and the sense line is connected to that same aux power terminal on the fuse block (and then thru relay contact so is switched off).
Seems like having this additional load taken off at the same point of the sense line, would reduce this fluctuation situation, not make it worse.
Anyway, just as a test, I will move the glove wiring harness from the fuse block aux terminals and put it directly on the battery (the harness has its own fuse, 5A), so that amperage is not going thru any of the bikes wiring, so not making any voltage drop along any of the bikes wiring.
Any words of wisdom...?
.
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