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What is the diff between the Model D and Model Z cylinder head covers?

  • Thread starter Thread starter whereiwannabe
  • Start date Start date
Service manual only shows picture of early and late bolt pattern for the '82, not stating what early and late mean, like perhaps late in model year?
Don't know.
Otherwise I think it's just the color, is the ES aluminum or black?
 
The 82-83 has more bolts. You can immediately tell by the cam tower in front or back; there are two bolts directly at the corners. The 80-81 also have a much wider cover than the later. The later ones are generally preferred as they have less tendency to leak
 
Last edited:
Z & D are the same except for paint. The ES uses the D but without the tach drive. It uses a block off plug where the tach drive gear goes in the valve cover due to the ES having an electronic tach. Hope this helps. Ray.
 
Hi Ray,

Exactly the info I was looking for (I had a feeling you'd know).

Thanks!
 
rapidray said:
Z & D are the same except for paint. The ES uses the D but without the tach drive. It uses a block off plug where the tach drive gear goes in the valve cover due to the ES having an electronic tach. Hope this helps. Ray.
Click to expand...

Is that right Ray? Why is it that ebay and the web are littered with tach cables for this bike( my bike)? The reason I ask is I'm experiencing a bouncing tach needle and I just assumed I needed to lube my cable. Paul
 
To add on to this thread...

My valve cover gasket has been seeping oil. It's just enough to be annoying. I bought a high-quality gasket last time I did my valves and and even used a recommended adhesive (which I can't wait to try and remove). Everything was torqued down in order properly. Now it's about time for valve adjustment again and I'm wondering what's the best way to prevent this? What do you think of buying two gaskets and sandwiching them?
 
slayer61 said:
The reason I ask is I'm experiencing a bouncing tach needle and I just assumed I needed to lube my cable. Paul
Click to expand...

I had a bouncy tach needle on my '82 GS1100E. Lots can cause it. I replaced the gauges, still there, lubed the cable, still there, lubed the tach, still there, replaced the tach cable, still there, adjusted the carb air screws using the high RPM method, gone! Engine ran smoother I guess.
 
whereiwannabe said:
To add on to this thread...

My valve cover gasket has been seeping oil. It's just enough to be annoying. I bought a high-quality gasket last time I did my valves and and even used a recommended adhesive (which I can't wait to try and remove). Everything was torqued down in order properly. Now it's about time for valve adjustment again and I'm wondering what's the best way to prevent this? What do you think of buying two gaskets and sandwiching them?
Click to expand...

I don't know if anybody else does this, but on my first a Western States rally to Reno, my brand new Cometic valve cover gasket broke and squeezed out from between two bolts on the front of my ED valve cover. I ended up spewing oil for 600 miles. Had to stuff rags into the front of my gas tank and oil came up and ruined my digital gear indicator in the cluster. :mad:

After that I concluded that the cast aluminum valve covers had warped and need to be surfaced. I now use a fine flat file (check to make sure they are flat and not warped) and go carefully over the entire surface (across as much as possible to keep it flat; not just across a narrow area). You will be able to easily see the high and low spots. use a stainless brush to keep the teeth clean as then will gum and gouge the aluminum. A fine file will leave a nice almost machined surface.

I do all covers and mating surfaces this way. You cant do the head surface very easily so I have avoided that.
 
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