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What is the secret to removing GS turn signals !?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Road_Clam
  • Start date Start date
R

Road_Clam

Guest
Well while removing the rear T/S's and trying to remove the bracket from the post I ended up breaking BOTH the left and right ground wires internally . What happens is when you start turning the stem nut CCW, that nut is locked down tight to the pipe that runs inside the T/S body, and the other end of the pipe is threaded into the plastic housing. The 2 wires are epoxied into the tube. So what happens is the tight stem nut doesn't loosen up, it just spins the internal pipe, which spins the epoxied wires, which can only take so much rotating before the wires twist and snap. I see no way to grab and hold the pipe, to allow the stem nut to be loosed up first. This is a horsepoop design, which is gonna cost me two brand new T/S, when all I wanted to do is remove the brackets to repaint them.
Rich
 
clam i removed all four of mine and this didnt happen to me. the stud in the plastic should not turn. i have 4 of them for sale.
 
The turn signals shouldn't have the wires epoxied in the body. Maybe the PO was trying to keep water from getting into the turn signals?
 
Ive had mine off and not had the same issues either, musta been something the PO did or something, or you just got unlucky this time.

you can get new signals aftermarket for around 20 bucks a piece, but I would see if the ones Duke has will work first, Im sure theyd be cheaper than that.
 
I have removed turn signals that apparently had not been removed since being installed by the manufacturer. The nuts were corroded and frozen onto the threads resulting in the stalk turning and twisting off the internal wires. Once they are off and you can get them apart, it is not particularly difficult to remove the bulb socket and solder new wires in place. Then just run them back through the stalk as before. (pain in the arse, but not a big deal) :-)

Earl
 
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