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What is this lug on rear brake for

  • Thread starter Thread starter Suzuki_Don
  • Start date Start date
S

Suzuki_Don

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I have just had my first attempt at polishing some alloy on the 550, thought I would try it out on something that was not on show much.
While rebuilding the rear wheel (new bearings X 3, skimmed brake drum, new linings machined to suit, etc) I have come across this lug cast into the rear brake backing plate that holds the brake shoes. I don't remember taking anything off here when I removed the rear wheel for frame powder coating. The backing plate is located in position by a torque arm from the lower extension from the backing plate. And the brake actuating lever is operated by a brake rod (not a cable).

The lug I am referring to is the one on the right of the drum with a slot in it.

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Short of a cable guide, I coudlnt say. The drum on my 1973 front hub has the same thing in about the same location. Is it possible that your bike was fitted with a rod instead of a cable at some time in the past? Seems all the photos I can find of the old GTs, have the rear pretty well hidden by the dual mufflers.
 
I've got a GT550 and GT750.....I'm not at home but ain't that the guide for the cable?
 
It holds the outside of the cable so the rear brake will function. Didn't you have a rear brake before you started?
 
Hard to see in this photo but it appears to be the brake cable stay.

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His is probably like my 82 GS550L: the rear drum brake is actuated with a rod, not a cable. It's likely they just used the same part rather than re-tooling to save a few cents each.
 
Thanks for the suggestions, but I have a rod operated rear brake.
 
Yeah, it's kinda like the headlight switch on the '81 models that has been locked into place.

They were working on changing it, but decided to use up all the old parts first. :o

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Thanks guys for the posts. I thought that was probably the case that it was used for a variety of models, but thought the plain slot in the lug was a bit ordinary. I thought a more permanent way of attaching the outer cable would have been used. It turns out the same part was used on the GT550 which had a cable operated rear brake.
No-one commented on my polishing effort. Was it that bad . . .
 
You have WAY too much time on your hands Steve! ;)
Actually it looks GREAT!
 
Steve , you're such a showoff. Looks better than mine though, I should drop the bike off for the weekend and keep you busy.:)
 
Well, ... you said it was your first attempt, I wasn't sure if you meant "first attempt" or "first pass". (sorry)

When you are ready to "polish", let me know.

What about this weekend Steve.

And Thanks Bill.

The main reason I actually did what I did was that there was some alloy corrosion and I thought I would clean it up while everything was apart. I started with 600 w+d then went to 1200 w+d and then the brown stuff on a rag wheel. An experiment really as I have never done any actual polishing before.

P.S. I used the rag wheel on my angle grinder as I found the drill too slow to get any decent results.

BTW STEVE do you want to run us through your procedure from start to finish to get the great shine that you are able to obtain. Tell us what tools are used to get it like that, polisher, drill, whatever and types of polish used and in what order.
 
I should drop the bike off for the weekend and keep you busy.
Let me know before you drop by, I'm still out of state. :D
In fact, I wasn't too far from you just after Memorial Day.
If the present work schedule keeps up, I will only be home for two weekends out of the 14 from Memorial Day to the end of August. :eek:


What about this weekend Steve.

BTW STEVE do you want to run us through your procedure from start to finish to get the great shine that you are able to obtain. Tell us what tools are used to get it like that, polisher, drill, whatever and types of polish used and in what order.
Don, if YOU show up this weekend, I will have to change my plans for a family get-together in South Carolina, and that is "on my way" from Mississippi to oHIo.
Funny, it was only a 740 mile ride down here, but it's going to be between 1100 and 1200 miles to get home. All depends on the weather and which way my wife wants to go. She is driving down with an aunt and riding home with me. :dancing:

I would have to clean up the garage a bit to do a short video, and that's a possibility, but not until September or so. I just won't be home long enough until then.

The polishing process in a nutshell: Craftsman bench grinder mounted on a 4x4 that is stuck in a 5-gallon bucket filled with concrete. Provides a sturdy-enough base, but it's still portable, if necessary. 8" stitched fabric wheel from Harbor Freight. I get my polishing compound at Lowe's, but Home Depot and Harbor Freight have the same stuff. I use the white compound designed for heavier work on soft metals. If there is a clear coat, use chemical stripper or sandpaper to get it off. Apply the compound to the spinning buffer wheel, press the part to be polished to the wheel, but keep it moving. If you stay in one spot, you will gouge the aluminum. Work a few different angles to even out the shine, repeat as necessary. Takes about 5 minutes to do a carb top, between 5 and 10 to do a float bowl.


STEVE those shoes could do with a polish.
I think I was wearing my sneakers that day. They don't polish very well. :o

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STEVE what do you think of sisal polishing buffs. I have read where some people like them and others don't. What is the difference between them and the sewn material buffs.

Do you only use the white compound and nothing else. I buffed my backing plate with the brown compound and then used a product we get here in Australia called Goddard's Glow. It works a treat but is quite fine, a bit like toothpaste consistency and in a similar container. It is good to give that final polish on alloy.

I will have to find an old single phase motor from somewhere and make up a polishing rig to get better results.
 
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