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What NOT to do when cutting out the stator loop?

BigD_83

BigD_83

Forum Sage
Past Site Supporter
I'm about to start in on the coil relay mod and a few other electrical odds and ends that need done.

I've been reading up on cutting out the loop from the stator up to the headlight and back, and I'm a little confused as to what I am cutting out and where, and then what I have to solder/connect back to the R/R. I think it will make more sense when I actually do it, rather than just trying to visualize it from posts and wiring schematics.

Sometimes knowing what NOT to do is just as helpful. Is there anything in particular to avoid?
 
Nothing to cut out- just bypass that loop. Run the three stator wires direct to R/R. Make sure your R/R has direct ground to battery negative (see Basscliff's). Hopefully, you are using a decent R/R.
 
You can re-route that without cutting. The bullet that goes into the harness (then up to the bars and back) mates with the connector that receives the wire coming back from the bars.

So take the outgoing wire and plug it into the R/R where the other harness wire comes back.
 
Aah,

thank you gents. That is the kind of information people pay good money for.

I'm sure this is all going to make sense (but not dollars) when I get my grimy hands in there again.
 
This is exactly what I was looking for. Now I can do this without the wire cutters and solder :D
 
Bonehead said:
This is exactly what I was looking for. Now I can do this without the wire cutters and solder :D
Click to expand...


Not really. You need to join the stator wires with the input wires for the R/R. You don't have to solder, but it's the most reliable method.
 
Hi,

For reference:

HondaRRconnections.jpg


This will leave two wires, the send and return wire to the headlight switch. Just tape them off and tuck them out of the way. I think they are pointed out in the r/r replacement guide.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
BassCliff said:
Hi,

For reference:

This will leave two wires, the send and return wire to the headlight switch. Just tape them off and tuck them out of the way. I think they are pointed out in the r/r replacement guide.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
Click to expand...

Thanks, Basscliff. Your guide does indeed show the wires mentioned.
 
Nessism said:
Not really. You need to join the stator wires with the input wires for the R/R. You don't have to solder, but it's the most reliable method.
Click to expand...

should have been more clear, for now I am just talking about the headlight loop.
 
BigD_83 said:
Still stock, but to date everything keeps passing the stator paper tests.
Click to expand...
And it will, till that fateful day, miles from home, dead cell phone, etc.
Keep your ebay eyes out for a SH775 R/R - series type, likely to be had much cheaper than Compufire
 
I did the cut and solder route. No more connectors at all from the stator to the R/R. good clean wire, good clean solder joints. A little dialectric grease and two layers of shrink tubing to keep it all clean too. (I did leave some slack, just in case I ever have to work on those wires again too)
 
MisterCinders said:
You can re-route that without cutting. The bullet that goes into the harness (then up to the bars and back) mates with the connector that receives the wire coming back from the bars.

So take the outgoing wire and plug it into the R/R where the other harness wire comes back.
Click to expand...

As it turned out, the R/W (or is it W/R?) coming back from the "switch" went directly into the Molex connector that bundles the 4 wires back to the R/R and there was no female bullet receptacle available to receive the third wire from the stator.

No biggie. I just cut the return wire, crimped, soldered, and shrink-wrapped a female bullet receptacle to the length coming out of the connector, and plugged in the G/W wire coming from the stator. The cut/bypassed stator loop wires got taped back to the harness. At some point I'll get the stator going directly to the R/R.

Tonight I got to clean up most of the connectors while I had the battery box out and the wiring somewhat apart.

Too late to test the charging, but there was power, and no sparks/smoke when I cranked it over.
 
Back to the Stator and R/R tests

Back to the Stator and R/R tests

tom203 said:
And it will, till that fateful day, miles from home, dead cell phone, etc.
Keep your ebay eyes out for a SH775 R/R - series type, likely to be had much cheaper than Compufire
Click to expand...
tom203 said:
And it will, till that fateful day, miles from home, dead cell phone, etc.
Keep your ebay eyes out for a SH775 R/R - series type, likely to be had much cheaper than Compufire
Click to expand...

...and back to the stator tests tonight. Please stick with me, as I do fumble around with electrical. I have left out some of the less relevant tests for clarity.

To summarize

A tests

Key Off: 12.59V
Key ON: 11.94V
idle (~1500rpm): 12.16V
2500rpm: 12.50V (THIS should raise an eyebrow, right?)
5000 rpm: 14.65V
Key OFF: 12.65V

All looks good, carry on right? Gut (and an intermittent dead battery) tells me something is wrong.

B tests: (note stator wire colours)
W/G - W/B 78.5V AC
W/G - Y 82.3V
W/B- Y: 77.1V

Not exactly equal, but given the variance in engine speed when testing I think they are close enough.

C tests

1. Red to "+" R/R output Black to other R/R leads

OL on all three

2. Black MM lead on Red R/R "+", Red lead to other legs:

Yellow: OL
W/B: 0.541
W/R OL

If I did the test right, then I guess this ^^^ is trouble

3. Black MM lead on B/W "-" R/R output, Red to other R/R leads: OL x3

4. Red MM lead to R/R "-", Black to:

Yellow: 0.557
W/B: 0.549
W/R: 0.550


Do these tests explain the low charging value at 2500rpm?

Is there any chance the R/R is not dead?

Can I conclude the stator is good, and I need a new R/R?
 
Your C test. step 2 is a red flag- the diodes should be all blocking ( i.e "OL" ) The W/B reading is suspicious, though I rather not explain.
Your stator looks good, so dump this old R/R and improve things. My shindengen sh-232 puts out 13 volts at high idle and 14.2 volts from 2k up. If you feel flush, get a Compufire- if you're patient, hunt for a sh-775- if you're CHEEP (like me ) get a basic Shindengen for maybe $20.
I'd loan you a spare but you are far far away!
 
Thanks for the feedback, Tom.

I tried to pick up that R/R Salty Monk had posted up a while ago,but it's made it's way to parts unknown. Actually, I think 850Cafe ended up with it... been looking for something for awhile as I suspected there might have been an intermittent issue right from the get go.

Do you feel like taking a shot at explaining your suspicions about that one 0.5 reading at step 2 of the C tests? I can always repost it in another thread if it might lead to an interesting discussion amongst the E/Es on the forum.
 
BigD_83 said:
....

Do you feel like taking a shot at explaining your suspicions about that one 0.5 reading at step 2 of the C tests? I can always repost it in another thread if it might lead to an interesting discussion amongst the E/Es on the forum.
Click to expand...
I just know basic electronic stuff, but I suspect the zener diode (this forms the reference point for the 14 volt target voltage ) is failing. My original R/R behaved and tested similar to yours- I replaced it and got the desired results.

Lots of ebay offerings, here's a typical one- a big sh-538, 8 wire with two reds and two greens - should be direct bolt on (I have one to measure)

ebay item #130800382210
 
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