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    Originally posted by gordinho80 View Post
    I've had issues with my front brake light switch since I bought my bike. I've already replaced it twice and I can never seem to get it right. Last time, it stays switched and the brake light stays on unless you fiddle with the lever.
    Get a whole new lever/master cylinder.. they are really not that expensive. If you but OEM used, rebuild it then put it on. Sounds like you are at that point. If your bike sits outside a lot....you should keep a couple of those plate/wire assemblies handy... they are like $15 shipped on ebay. They will go out on a bike that is stored or is left outside.

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      Originally posted by gordinho80 View Post
      I've had issues with my front brake light switch since I bought my bike. I've already replaced it twice and I can never seem to get it right. Last time, it stays switched and the brake light stays on unless you fiddle with the lever.
      Hi. You need to loosen the two screws that hold on the little black over, then slide the little circuit board that the two wires are soldered to back and forth until your brake light comes on when it's supposed to, and goes off when it's supposed to. The secret here is to loosen the screws enough that you can slide that little board back and forth, but not so much that it doesn't stay where you put it as you're re-tightening the screws. And remember, it doesn't take much; the difference between it working right and not working right is maybe only 1/64" to 1/32". I learned all this yesterday. Good luck!

      Scott
      Last edited by Guest; 03-27-2017, 02:19 PM.

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        Much appreciated, Scott. Before I even read this latest post, I went out and attempted to put it back together and aligned properly. Its working much better now. We'll see how it holds up.

        Falcon, thanks for the info. I'll keep it in mind. My bike never stays outside, its always garage kept.

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          One of the wires broke off on the starter button. Looks like it had re-soldered before but it was a bad job. I re-soldered and now works fine. I probably should have re-done the other one but it looked pretty solid.
          IMG_1933.jpg

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            Re-terminated the rear brake light and turn signal wiring where it meets up with the wiring from my license plate bracket so that it uses proper connectors this time around. I'm down to just needing to bleed the front brakes, replace the rear brake light switch and bleed that brake, and then do a carb sync. My birthday is Sunday so I'm hoping I can take a ride that day.
            Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

            1981 GS550T - My First
            1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
            2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

            Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
            Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
            and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

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              Originally posted by cowboyup3371 View Post
              Re-terminated the rear brake light and turn signal wiring where it meets up with the wiring from my license plate bracket so that it uses proper connectors this time around. I'm down to just needing to bleed the front brakes, replace the rear brake light switch and bleed that brake, and then do a carb sync. My birthday is Sunday so I'm hoping I can take a ride that day.
              Is this all on your GS550T rebuild?

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                There's a rattle on my GS750 at ~4krpm that I can't identify and I'm going to take the cam chain tensioner off to make sure it's working properly - Same procedure as the GS450 tensioner right? Do I have to worry about the cam chain jumping off the sprockets or anything (obviously won't be turning the engine or anything with it out)?
                1980/1981 GS450 - GS500 Cylinder + Piston Swap - "De-L'ed", custom seat, CB350 bits, 18" rear, etc.
                1977 GS550
                1977 GS750 - Cross country trip thread

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                  Originally posted by sam000lee View Post
                  There's a rattle on my GS750 at ~4krpm that I can't identify and I'm going to take the cam chain tensioner off to make sure it's working properly - Same procedure as the GS450 tensioner right? Do I have to worry about the cam chain jumping off the sprockets or anything (obviously won't be turning the engine or anything with it out)?
                  if it has been a while since you checked your valves, might as well do it all. Will give you a chance to look inside and feel how loose or tight you chain is... some say put your bike at TDC in case the chain does skip on removal.

                  Is your sound a mysteriously-appearing-doesn't-really-fit-identified sound kind of somewhere between piston slap and valve lash ping-clacka that comes and goes loaded and unloaded and does not appear until bike is warmed up?

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                    Just replaced the rear wheel bearings. Fronts are next. Took me about 1 hour total to get wheel off and swap bearings. Not too bad, actually.

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                      Originally posted by MI GS850G guy View Post
                      Is this all on your GS550T rebuild?
                      No, I wrecked last year just 7 miles outside of Elkins West Virginia on my way to the Blue Ridge Parkway. I bent the forks and messed up the lower triple tree so I've been putting it back together. Also wanted to fix a couple of smaller headaches involving some wiring I did a year or two ago.
                      Cowboy Up or Quit. - Run Free Lou and Rest in Peace

                      1981 GS550T - My First
                      1981 GS550L - My Eldest Daughter's - Now Sold
                      2007 GSF1250SA Bandit - My touring bike

                      Sit tall in the saddle Hold your head up high
                      Keep your eyes fixed where the trail meets the sky and live like you ain't afraid to die
                      and don't be scared, just enjoy your ride - Chris Ledoux, "The Ride"

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by Blue Falcon View Post
                        if it has been a while since you checked your valves, might as well do it all. Will give you a chance to look inside and feel how loose or tight you chain is... some say put your bike at TDC in case the chain does skip on removal.

                        Is your sound a mysteriously-appearing-doesn't-really-fit-identified sound kind of somewhere between piston slap and valve lash ping-clacka that comes and goes loaded and unloaded and does not appear until bike is warmed up?
                        Just did the valves and full carb. teardown/clean. I bought the bike in the fall and rode it 240 miles home and have been fixing it up over the winter so I don't have lots of experience with riding it yet. The sound was there last year and it's more of a rattle/vibration. I'm going to pull the tensioner this weekend to check it out.
                        1980/1981 GS450 - GS500 Cylinder + Piston Swap - "De-L'ed", custom seat, CB350 bits, 18" rear, etc.
                        1977 GS550
                        1977 GS750 - Cross country trip thread

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                          Rebuilt, reinstalled and bled the clutch slave cylinder last night. No problem bleeding at all just using the clutch handle.
                          Current Bikes:
                          2001 Yamaha FZ1 (bought same one back)

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                            Originally posted by ddaniels View Post
                            Rebuilt, reinstalled and bled the clutch slave cylinder last night. No problem bleeding at all just using the clutch handle.
                            $15 vacuum pump from harbor freight.... fluid bleed or fluid flush takes 3 minutes.... and you don't have to stand funny to do it.

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                              Got my two GS450 ebay cam chain tensioners, both came with 35+ years of grease, grime and goo without any extra charge from the seller. Cleaned off the exterior and rebuilt both of them and put the best operating one on my bike, cam chain noise gone, my original one plunger spring just gave up...its like a nerf basketball..really easy to pinch
                              ... riding into work, stopped at Firehouse Subs, ate a sammich, got back on the bike and it would not start... all I heard was click click.. grrrrrr as my blood began to boil. Pop started the bike, got to work. Checked solenoid... no voltage on the starter side, pulled it off, starter side totally corroded, some 3-2-1 contact cleaner and a brass brush and we are all good again. Put a little dielectric grease on the terminals and checked ... click click... but this time voltage on the starter. YAY!! win #2 for the day. Pulled out the starter....had to remove the tensioner I just put on ....put it on the bench tester... nothing... took starter apart and mucked up with dust and corrosion... again with the contact cleaner and a little burnishing tool nice shiny copper again, plenty of room left on the brushes. Put the starter back together, took it to the bench tester and vroom she is whirring. Put starter and tensioner back on bike and I am not hitching a ride home in the morning. What a way to start off the work day.... ugh... but I got 3 wins.... and 1 loss... my noise (in another post) is coming from my clutch area... me thinkst that it may haveth some playeth.

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by Blue Falcon View Post
                                $15 vacuum pump from harbor freight.... fluid bleed or fluid flush takes 3 minutes.... and you don't have to stand funny to do it.
                                I'll consider that for the next time I have to bleed something. This time, however, I didn't have to wait a week or more for the $15 pump to show up at my door.
                                Current Bikes:
                                2001 Yamaha FZ1 (bought same one back)

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