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Peer Review - New Carb Rebuild Tutorial

Have a new version with (most of) the suggested improvements. Compressed it a little too.

Will post the new link as soon as the new file is uploaded.

EDIT: deleted the old file and uploaded the new one... (see above)

Please keep the suggestions coming.
 
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Nearing perfection. I only saw two items.

Units are inconsistent. Some places you give inch dimensions, other places millimeters. I would vote to abandon the archaic inches.

On slide 2: .385" thick or .0385"? About 3/8" in either direction seems too large.
 
Ed it looks good and reads very well now.
Some final comments:

  1. The float level setting is much clearer now. I edited my reply after looking at my GS1000 carbs again this morning. Sorry about my confusion there.
  2. Your picture on #9 with comments may be a bit confusing. Sitting on the bike, the carbs count from left to right. With the carbs sitting on the engine it is as shown in your picture. Maybe add another picture for visual info or just change the picture to show from airbox side.
  3. This task requires removing the carbs and reinstalling them. All advice is to replace the intake o-rings at the same time. The manual does not show that there are left and right intake boots and which marking to use for "up" when replacing them.
  4. The airbox boots can also give one a hard time if they are not aligned with the rubber nub on the airbox itself. Many people do not know this.
I have a list of the S/S cap screws sizes and also the o-ring sizes if you want to include those, just let me know and I will dig them out.

Keep well and excellent work done with very clear pictures!
 
This is fantastic! Should be a great resource for any bike using Mikuni BS CV carbs, too. I hope it gets spread around.
 
Awesome Job !! Just a couple of noob questions. you haven't included a circlip tool size. So i assume I can buy one that will do both my carbs and fork seal clips ? Also I don.t see anything in my manual to drill out pilot screw.
[ 1983 gs750e ] bs332s ? And I notice you recommend jis screwdrivers. Are they different then ours ?
I also reduced your file size to 10.9 mb. I then test emailed it to myself. No problems. PM me if you would like me to email you a copy. Thanx for your extensive work, making life a little easier for us noob's.
 
Matchless said:
Ed it looks good and reads very well now.
Some final comments:

  1. The float level setting is much clearer now. I edited my reply after looking at my GS1000 carbs again this morning. Sorry about my confusion there.
  2. Your picture on #9 with comments may be a bit confusing. Sitting on the bike, the carbs count from left to right. With the carbs sitting on the engine it is as shown in your picture. Maybe add another picture for visual info or just change the picture to show from airbox side.
  3. This task requires removing the carbs and reinstalling them. All advice is to replace the intake o-rings at the same time. The manual does not show that there are left and right intake boots and which marking to use for "up" when replacing them.
  4. The airbox boots can also give one a hard time if they are not aligned with the rubber nub on the airbox itself. Many people do not know this.
I have a list of the S/S cap screws sizes and also the o-ring sizes if you want to include those, just let me know and I will dig them out.

Keep well and excellent work done with very clear pictures!
Click to expand...


Thanks Andre. I'll add another slide showing how the carbs number as they sit on the bike. Will also ad some information about the carb boots, O-rings, and hardware.

What O-ring information do you have? I have developed cross-reference info for many of the carb and intake boot O-rings but not all. Please send me what you have and I'll incorporate it.:)
 
Ed this is what I have:

attachment.php
 
Hello, I just started to read through (on page 28 now), and I am in the middle of rebuilding mine now. (stuck idle mixture screw thread) I have 3 sets of carbs, one original to the bike and 2 I obtained for parts.
What hit me, causing this reply, is that some one has painted your carbs black. I have never seen this before, and it might confuse a newbie. Also the top caps have an odd divot. Where did these carbs come from?
Also, a related comment and/or question. Is there a way to identify the different similar models of carbs? As I said I have 3 in my possession, and they are each slightly different. If possible it might be helpful to include this information, if not in this tutorial some where else.

PS for some reason, when I posted my reply the carb o-ring and cap screw sizes.pdf downloaded
 
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really good stuff, impressed.

slide 38, might want to note the the main jet without the washer is shown attached at the bottom of the needle jet

slide 40, what size/mm socket is optimal?

slide 46 & 74, might be able to reduce the overall size by removing the background gradient? dunno

slides 48, 49, 50 awesomeness on full display

slide 69 wow, yuck

slide 71, "too" should be "to" in the red text top R box

slide 74, the only place the yellow didn't work for me was on 74, but not a big deal. might want to note which way is open on the pilot jet note (open = clockwise, close = counter, etc). maybe something about being tender with closing the jets into the seats so that the seats don't get ruined? include a link to a doc on how to vacuum sync?

clearly lots of work went into this, really good stuff, well done, will look forward to using the final version here soon myself. nice job, thanks for taking the time to put this together.
 
karllmt said:
Is there a way to identify the different similar models of carbs? As I said I have 3 in my possession, and they are each slightly different. If possible it might be helpful to include this information, if not in this tutorial some where else.
Click to expand...

you can use a caliper like the one shown in the pdf to measure the bore of the carb at the boot side to get diameter (32,34, 36, etc)

I've always used the Sudco website for carb identification, it takes some time digging around but I've always been able to find what I was after.

http://www.sudco.com/Carburetor01.html
 
2 more thoughts.
When re-assembleing the 4 carbs together, it's much easier to add and clamp the hoses to the tees before rather than after.
In Bloemer's original (which I have used several times) He used a "special" home made tool to be sure all the tiny holes in the needle jet and pilot jet are clear. This was usefull for me, as there was still gunk after dipping.
 
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Updated again, and further compressed.

Almost done pending worthy suggestions.
 
This is probably grossly pedantic, but there is a typo on Pg. 6: 'Striped' should be 'stripped,' Pg. 51, 'though' should be 'through.' That is all I found! I am especially appreciative of the section detailing the thickness of the spacer on the slide. It helped me realize that I put the spacers in the wrong spot when I installed them.
 
tthayer said:
This is probably grossly pedantic, but there is a typo on Pg. 6: 'Striped' should be 'stripped,' Pg. 51, 'though' should be 'through.' That is all I found! I am especially appreciative of the section detailing the thickness of the spacer on the slide. It helped me realize that I put the spacers in the wrong spot when I installed them.
Click to expand...


Your feedback is much appreciated! If you, or anyone else, finds any other errors please point them out.:clap: Details like this are my weakness and I need help.
 
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