First time wetsanding clearcoat.....ooops!

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  • growler

    #31
    Ah, gotcha. I'll use anything that works! Good on you for finding what works best for you. Let's hope the next time I do this I'll be better. Hah!

    Originally posted by Nessism
    Using a DA sort of outs you as an amateur. Most pros I've seen use rotating buffers. A DA is a lot safer from burn-through though. It's slower but so what.

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    • jsandidge
      Forum Sage
      Past Site Supporter
      • Jun 2013
      • 1482
      • Norfolk, Virginia

      #32
      Originally posted by growler
      The guy at the paint store I bought the compounds from told me to stay away from a DA. Who knows.

      I ended up with this:
      http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-...kit-99934.html


      Let us know how this works for you. I just bought one a few weeks ago and haven't used it yet.
      https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B9zH8w8Civs8ejBJWjdvYi1LNTg&resourcekey=0-hlJp0Yc4K_VN9g7Jyy4KQg&authuser=fussbucket_1%40msn.com&usp=drive_fs
      1983 GS750ED-Horsetraded for the Ironhead
      1981 HD XLH

      Drew's 850 L Restoration

      Drew's 83 750E Project

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      • jbird7262

        #33
        remember, friction, you can also burn the clear with a foam pad, just take your time, also on your damaged part, you might be able to salvage it if you just "smuged" the surface. Kind'a looks like a skid mark, see if you can flatten it out with some 1500 and a rubber block (wet), if you have enough material on it you might be ok.

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        • growler

          #34
          Works great. Much easier on smaller curves for sure.

          Originally posted by jsandidge
          Let us know how this works for you. I just bought one a few weeks ago and haven't used it yet.

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