Wont start, has spark, getting fuel ???

[CycloneGS]

Ok guys, thanks for the help thus far.

I tore the carbs apart, dipped, compressed air, the whole bit. I even replaced the fuel and vacuum lines and one of the bolts to choke linkage while i was in there. Hooked everything back up including the airbox line to the top of the engine (dont know what thats called). And it wouldnt start.

So, I sprayed a little starter fluid in the air cleaner and tried again, and it popped right off! After dialing in the idle a bit, I grabbed the seat off my work bench and put it on. Tank was till loose, no side covers, and battery just sitting in there... Anywho, I took it for a lap around the block and it ran just fine. but still no tail lights, or turn signals, and my headlight was dim.

Seems like i have an electrical problem still. The grounds are all good and clean with new wires. Factory R/R still but its grounded directly to battery. Stator was unable to be tested since I couldnt get it running.

My question is, why does it start on starting fluid?

[CycloneGS]

How are your valve clearances? My 450 started getting hard to start before not starting at all when my clearances got too tight (couldn't fit my smallest feeler gage between the cam and shim).

Slap my wrists for not checking the valve clearances yet, I know its recommemded. I will do this next.

Should I still check the compression? I spent $30 on a tool and I dont want to open it if I don't have to.

[Guest]

Missed this one completely... did you prime the carbs at all? There's a little brass slot headed screw on the fuel tap. Undo that half a turn for 30 seconds or so to prime it.

Still do your compression test.

I see you have a MAC 2 into 1... do you know if you need to re-jet for that or if it's supposed to be a stock replacement?

[CycloneGS]

Missed this one completely... did you prime the carbs at all? There's a little brass slot headed screw on the fuel tap. Undo that half a turn for 30 seconds or so to prime it.

I dont have a prime setting, just RES and ON. I couldnt find they screw you talked about, is it on the fuel petcock? I have started it up about 5x now with no problems. I even bolted the tanks back on and affixed the side covers and took it for another ride

I see you have a MAC 2 into 1... do you know if you need to re-jet for that or if it's supposed to be a stock replacement?

Stock replacement.

I guess I have to do a compression check...

[Guest]

Good stuff, glad she's starting now

The screw is on the petcock (I call it a fuel tap... a petcock for me is a friendly rooster).

Here's a shot of my brand new one just after I installed it:



You can see the brass slot head there below and to the right of the tap.

The compression test is more for your peace of mind to know your rings are sealing well, head gasket is sealing well, and your valves are adjusted correctly.

[daspirate]

Slap my wrists for not checking the valve clearances yet, I know its recommemded. I will do this next.

Should I still check the compression? I spent $30 on a tool and I dont want to open it if I don't have to.

If you want to avoid opening the compression gage, I suppose you could check the valve clearances first. If they're very tight, do something about that first and see where you're at. On the other hand, if your clearances are too tight, it could show up on a compression check.


Or you could just ride the thing and be happy

[koolaid_kid]

If you want to avoid opening the compression gage, I suppose you could check the valve clearances first. If they're very tight, do something about that first and see where you're at. On the other hand, if your clearances are too tight, it could show up on a compression check.


Or you could just ride the thing and be happy

You really need to check your valve clearances, straight away. This is not an option, it is a requirement for happy GS'ing. Then you can do the compression check if you wish. I would not, I would return the tester, but that is just me.

[CycloneGS]

You really need to check your valve clearances, straight away. This is not an option, it is a requirement for happy GS'ing. Then you can do the compression check if you wish. I would not, I would return the tester, but that is just me.

I better order the tool, thinking about a carb sync tool as well for the 750. I bet I can get both in one stop...

[koolaid_kid]

Many do not use the special tool, they use the zip tie method outlined on BassCliff's web site. Just a suggestion to save a bit of coinage.

[Guest]

Many do not use the special tool, they use the zip tie method outlined on BassCliff's web site. Just a suggestion to save a bit of coinage.

+1... not only is it cheap but it's easy as... it makes valve clearance checks very easy!

[CycloneGS]

+1... not only is it cheap but it's easy as... it makes valve clearance checks very easy!

Yeah! Yet another use for zip ties. Thanks a bunch, again.

Main problem is electrical still. I found a local 550L parts bike, sorry I dont know the year, will the R/R from that swap over to my 450? where can I go to find this info?

The new R/R and stator are about $160 for both plus some change off my ebay search. Although getting another 30 years out of these components would be awesome and probably worthy of the coin, I'm going cheap.

PS: Feels so good to rip around town again! Now I just need some lights

[Guest]

If the R/R on the 550 is stock Suzuki, I wouldn't bother.

Have a look on BassCliff's site for the compatible R/R's and find a good used Shindengen on eBay, dirt cheap and heaps better than the stock Suzuki ones.

I have a new stator on my 450 ($120 locally) and a used Shindengen SH530-12K ($60 locally) and my charging system has never been better.

You can get the R/R's much cheaper over there, everything here is stupid expensive.