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    top end tick

    i installed my dyna ignition coils,wires,pickups,plugs and changed my oil the other day and now i seem to be getting a top end noise more like a tick sounds like its coming from exhaust side but cant tell for sure. i know when i changed the plugs i got br8es instead of b8es didn't think it would make a difference, was i wrong? or should i use a higher octane fuel. i plan on doing a compression test when i get home from work just to see if i might have a warn valve seat that might need a thinner shim any other ideas or suggestions?

    #2
    Originally posted by bubby View Post
    i know when i changed the plugs i got br8es instead of b8es didn't think it would make a difference, was i wrong?
    Do you still have stock wires and caps on the plugs?

    The stock wires are suppressor-type wires. The stock caps are resistor-type caps. The stock plugs are non-suppressor (resistor) plugs.

    All of these items are available as "resistor" or "suppressor" types, you only need ONE of them to be so.

    If you have stock RESISTOR caps and your new RESISTOR plugs (that is the R in the BR8ES), you need to change one of them.

    .
    sigpic
    mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
    hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
    #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
    #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
    Family Portrait
    Siblings and Spouses
    Mom's first ride
    Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
    (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

    Comment


      #3
      Cam end float? Mine started doing that recently and goes away after it's all warmed up.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Steve View Post
        Do you still have stock wires and caps on the plugs?

        The stock wires are suppressor-type wires. The stock caps are resistor-type caps. The stock plugs are non-suppressor (resistor) plugs.

        All of these items are available as "resistor" or "suppressor" types, you only need ONE of them to be so.

        If you have stock RESISTOR caps and your new RESISTOR plugs (that is the R in the BR8ES), you need to change one of them.

        .
        i have aftermarket dyna 7mm wires. im not sure wich they are when we put them together it was just a wire that i had to cut and crimp the caps on then slid the rubber over them

        Comment


          #5
          An exhaust leak can sound like that.


          Life is too short to ride an L.

          Comment


            #6
            I agree with Tom, an exhaust leak often sounds like a tick.

            The Dyna wires are "suppressor" type, which means they have resistance in them and don't need resistor caps. I think you should use regular, not resistor, plugs...although either way, I'm pretty sure that has nothing to do with the problem at hand.
            Ed

            To measure is to know.

            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by bubby View Post
              i have aftermarket dyna 7mm wires.
              Originally posted by Nessism View Post
              The Dyna wires are "suppressor" type, which means they have resistance in them and don't need resistor caps. I think you should use regular, not resistor, plugs...although either way, I'm pretty sure that has nothing to do with the problem at hand.
              Let's see, ... suppressor wires, either stock or NGK caps (you don't say which), both of them are suppressor style, AND resistor plugs.

              Originally posted by Steve View Post
              All of these items are available as "resistor" or "suppressor" types, you only need ONE of them to be so.
              Could be this: or it could be this:

              .
              sigpic
              mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
              hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
              #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
              #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
              Family Portrait
              Siblings and Spouses
              Mom's first ride
              Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
              (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

              Comment


                #8
                [QUOTE=Steve;1683814]Let's see, ... suppressor wires, either stock or NGK caps (you don't say which), both of them are suppressor style, AND resistor plugs.




                i dont know what kinda caps they are they came with the dyna kit ... i only got the resistor plugs cause thats all the parts store had, i will go get some none resistor plugs... but i have a new problem i shut my bike off at the gas station and it wouldnt turn over like the battery was dead .. i guess im of to bikecliff's site to read up on charging system health while my battery is on the trickle charger.. lately this bike is giving me alot of problems 1 thing after another truly testing my patients

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by bubby View Post
                  ...but i have a new problem i shut my bike off at the gas station and it wouldnt turn over like the battery was dead .. i guess im of to bikecliff's site to read up on charging system health while my battery is on the trickle charger.. lately this bike is giving me alot of problems 1 thing after another truly testing my patients
                  Yup, 30 year old bikes need lots of maintenance.

                  Please check the Newbie Mistake thread linked in my signature to see if you have overlooked anything...

                  Good luck
                  Ed

                  To measure is to know.

                  Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                  Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                  Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                  KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by Toasty View Post
                    Cam end float? Mine started doing that recently and goes away after it's all warmed up.
                    mine dosnt seem to do it untell it is warmed up ,,, Nessism I agree with Tom, an exhaust leak often sounds like a tick.

                    The Dyna wires are "suppressor" type, which means they have resistance in them and don't need resistor caps. I think you should use regular, not resistor, plugs...although either way, I'm pretty sure that has nothing to do with the problem at hand.
                    Yesterday 04:10 PM
                    tkent02 An exhaust leak can sound like that how do i check for a exhaust leak i cant feel anything with my hands i dont think it is a exhaust leak but worth investigating to find out

                    Comment


                      #11
                      its came end float it comes and goes gonna rebuild the tensioner and see if it helps get rid of the annoying ticky tick tock sound i occasionally hear at the intersection

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Hi,

                        Originally posted by bubby View Post
                        lately this bike is giving me alot of problems 1 thing after another truly testing my patients
                        That's why we stress going through the maintenance lists in the "mega-welcome" and properly addressing every item. Most of the time you will buy a 30 year old bike that needs at least 20 years worth of maintenance.

                        To get you started:

                        Connect the three stator output wires directly to the r/r input wires, bypassing that useless loop of wire that runs up to a non-existent headlight switch on the handlebars. Connect the ground wire from the r/r directly to the negative terminal of the battery. Clean all electrical connections and grounds, fuse box, connectors, bulb sockets, battery terminals, solenoid, everything.



                        Use a Shindengen r/r unit (see list in the "compatible" link below, purchase used one from eBay), and a stator from either Caltric (eBay seller) or Rick's Electrics.

                        Click and Read the following:

                        Stator Papers
                        More On The Stator Papers
                        GS Charging System Health+Quick Test
                        Compatible Stators and R/Rs

                        Regulator/Rectifier Diode Test
                        Cleaning Your Wiring Harness



                        Thank you for your indulgence,

                        BassCliff

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