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    disconnect pistons from rods

    ok silly but quick question...how do the wrist pins come out in the 850 motors..

    any help would be appreciated

    #2
    Originally posted by gs850cafe View Post
    ok silly but quick question...how do the wrist pins come out in the 850 motors..

    any help would be appreciated
    Pry out the circlips with a small screw driver blade, then use an extractor to draw the pin out. Don't try hammering them out with a pin, or you risk damaging the pistons and bending the con rods.

    You can make an extractor by using a length of threaded rod or a long bolt, a tube that is slightly larger in diameter than the wrist pin bore, some washers and 2 nuts. The flats on the bolt head or a nut (if using the threaded rod) should be slightly smaller than the pin bore, so it can be drawn through the bore without damaging it.

    Enjoy!
    The road to hell is paved with good intentions......................................

    GS 850GN JE 894 10.5-1 pistons, Barnett Clutch, C-W 4-1, B-B MPD Ignition, Progressive suspension, Sport Demons. Sold
    GS 850GT JE 1023 11-1 pistons. Sold
    GS1150ES3 stock, V&H 4-1. Sold
    GS1100GD, future resto project. Sold

    http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000001.jpg
    http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000581.jpg

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      #3
      also here's the manual above box..http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

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        #4
        Unless the wrist pin or the rod bore itself is damaged, they just slide out by finger pressure...usually.
        MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
        1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

        NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


        I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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          #5
          I've usually needed to make an extractor from some 1/4" threaded rod, some washers, nuts, etc. It doesn't take much force, but it's almost always more than you can develop with your fingers.


          All the manuals are very clear and precise in the instructions for this. I would strongly suggest obtaining one...
          1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
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            #6
            As chuck suggests, you can usually just tap out the pin. Just don't hammer on the thing if it's stuck. I've rebuilt a few different GS engines and never used any special tools to get the pins out.
            Ed

            To measure is to know.

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              #7
              I tapped mine out with a smaller deep socket or socket extension. Just pick one that is smaller than the pin and the circlip, like an 8mm deep socket IIRC. A few taps on that, and the pin should move out. Once it starts to slide, finger pressure will finish the job. If it snags at the end, give it a few more gentle taps.

              HTH

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                #8
                pecking or beating the pin out can and will bend the rod if much force is used.
                purchase or make an extractor.
                i have never been able to just push the pins out on a factory GS engine.
                drag bikes or modified street bikes are a different story..plus buttons don't put a bur on the pistons.

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                  #9
                  I use a big C clamp and a couple sockets. It doesn't take much to get them started.


                  Life is too short to ride an L.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    If you can bend the rod with a few persuasion taps from a drift , then youve got some pretty chitty engine parts to begin with. They arent in there very tightly by any means.
                    MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                    1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                    NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                    I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                      If you can bend the rod with a few persuasion taps from a drift , then youve got some pretty chitty engine parts to begin with. They arent in there very tightly by any means.
                      +1 this. I don't recall even using a hammer. Just tapped the socket or extension with a screwdriver handle or wrench, depending on what was handy.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                        If you can bend the rod with a few persuasion taps from a drift , then youve got some pretty chitty engine parts to begin with. They arent in there very tightly by any means.
                        rods are designed to go up and down not side to side.
                        ask me why i have a pin puller now...yep, bent 1 of 4 rods on an 1100 years ago.

                        FYI
                        wrist pins can and will gall in the small end of the rod....no pushing it out without force/puller.
                        if you take enough engines apart a person will find these quite often.
                        Last edited by blowerbike; 10-12-2012, 04:26 PM. Reason: FYI

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by blowerbike View Post
                          rods are designed to go up and down not side to side.
                          ask me why i have a pin puller now...yep, bent 1 of 4 rods on an 1100 years ago.

                          FYI
                          wrist pins can and will gall in the small end of the rod....no pushing it out without force/puller.
                          if you take enough engines apart a person will find these quite often.
                          I agree. If you can push them out by hand the engine has very low mileage on it and/or the pin clearances were excessive from new.

                          High mileage engines often have pin galling and a build up of baked on oil/gunge to prevent finger pressure removal.
                          The road to hell is paved with good intentions......................................

                          GS 850GN JE 894 10.5-1 pistons, Barnett Clutch, C-W 4-1, B-B MPD Ignition, Progressive suspension, Sport Demons. Sold
                          GS 850GT JE 1023 11-1 pistons. Sold
                          GS1150ES3 stock, V&H 4-1. Sold
                          GS1100GD, future resto project. Sold

                          http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000001.jpg
                          http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s...s/P1000581.jpg

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Just took down the 78 750 that had just over 48,000 original and had never been into before. Only one was sticky and a slight tap with a brass drift had it out with no fuss...the other 3 slid out woth a push of the finger. We found some of the factory case sealer chips in the oil galleys though. Other than that it was as easy as that.
                            MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                            1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                            NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                            I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              awesome ty very much guys...also do i have to remove the engine to put rings in my bike?

                              Comment

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