oil pan gasket leak

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  • wompin

    #1

    oil pan gasket leak

    I just rebuilt my 79 gs1000 motor and finally fired it up today. It runs! Such a good feeling. Well, its gonna take some tuning and finish work still.

    For one thing. Ive got a leak at the sump gasket as well as the filter housing studs and possibly o-ring. Normally I would think 'ok ill just replace the old stuff'. Problem is, the gasket is brand new, the oil pan bolts are torqued properly, and the same for the filter housing.

    Any suggestions besides replacing the new gasket and filter o-ring. Could/should I try gasket sealing compound or the like? Thanks for your tips
  • gs850cafe

    #2
    i use a thin coat of hight temp rtv on most gaskets...i just replaced my very leaky pan gasket yesterday with success.

    mine would litterally leak about a 4 inch puddle of oil after riding down the highway..i ran 90 mph for 1/2 mile last night an no leaks this mornin

    Comment

    • Guest

      #3
      Originally posted by wompin

      Any suggestions besides replacing the new gasket and filter o-ring. Could/should I try gasket sealing compound or the like? Thanks for your tips
      Is it a OEM oil pan gasket? It has to be a certain thickness to seal right. Did you use a pattern to tighten your oil pan nuts?

      Comment

      • hampshirehog
        Forum LongTimer
        Past Site Supporter
        • Oct 2007
        • 12675
        • Hampshire. UK

        #4
        If you have to use gasket goop on those areas something is wrong - they should seal easily. Are you sure that there are no old bits of gasket stuck on the sump? Plus replace the O ring on the oil filter cover if you haven't already done so.
        79 GS1000S
        79 GS1000S (another one)
        80 GSX750
        80 GS550
        80 CB650 cafe racer
        75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
        75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

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        • wompin

          #5
          gasket remedy

          Once I rebuild my wiring harness Im going to give it the 20 min rebuilt motor break-in, then Ill drain the oil, get ready for new oil/filter. In the mean time ill check for a clean mating surface.

          The gasket is Vesrah. I know thats the most hated around here, but my budgets tight and the price was right. it seemed well made. 1-1.5mm thick or so. rubber/fiber-like material

          i may do the goop or i see boulevard suzuki has oem gasket for 8 bucks.

          i dont think the haynes manual gave me a torque sequence. what is it?

          Comment

          • hampshirehog
            Forum LongTimer
            Past Site Supporter
            • Oct 2007
            • 12675
            • Hampshire. UK

            #6
            On the sump pan there is no tightening sequence given (or necessary - just do it up evenly). The book of words gives the torque for the bolts as 5.5 to 6.5 lb-ft

            Your Vesrah gasket will be fine for the sump.
            79 GS1000S
            79 GS1000S (another one)
            80 GSX750
            80 GS550
            80 CB650 cafe racer
            75 PC50 - the one with OHV and pedals...
            75 TS100 - being ridden (suicidally) by my father

            Comment

            • wompin

              #7
              Results soon

              Right then. Ill give it due attention during the oil change, and attempt to seal it up well. Stay tuned for results. Thanks for the tips.

              BTW, If I dont see any visible problem with the mating surface, Ill probably want to brush on a gasket sealer of some kind just so Im at least attempting something new to seal the sump. Any preferred brand, type?

              Comment

              • JEEPRUSTY

                #8
                Last Summer I woke up to find my erstwhile seeping oilpan had dumped the contents of the sump on the driveway.

                I had a hairline crack on the inboard side adjacent to a bolt hole.
                You could barely see the crack but the piece broke off with a bit of manipulation.

                Comment

                • Dogma
                  Forum Guru
                  • Sep 2007
                  • 7143
                  • Mason, OH (SW)

                  #9
                  Originally posted by wompin
                  Right then. Ill give it due attention during the oil change, and attempt to seal it up well. Stay tuned for results. Thanks for the tips.

                  BTW, If I dont see any visible problem with the mating surface, Ill probably want to brush on a gasket sealer of some kind just so Im at least attempting something new to seal the sump. Any preferred brand, type?
                  Odds are you'll be able to identify a problem. That gasket should seal dry with no troubles.

                  Griffin put me onto this stuff: Permatex 85249 Hylomar Universal Blue Racing Formula Gasket Dressing and Flange Sealant

                  "Non-hardening and non-setting, allowing repeated disassembly and reassembly"

                  I've only recently started using it, so I can't report my own results yet.
                  Dogma
                  --
                  O LORD, be gracious to me; heal me, for I have sinned against you! - David

                  Skeptical scrutiny is the means, in both science and religion, by which deep insights can be winnowed from deep nonsense. - Carl Sagan

                  --
                  '80 GS850 GLT
                  '80 GS1000 GT
                  '01 ZRX1200R

                  How to get a "What's New" feed without the Vortex, and without permanently quitting the Vortex

                  Comment

                  • Guest

                    #10
                    Originally posted by wompin

                    i dont think the haynes manual gave me a torque sequence. what is it?
                    Even though there isn't a sequence listed, I still tighten any thing with that has several fasteners whether it is the oil pan or valve covers.

                    Here is the sequence I use, start in the middle and work out and crisscross as you go. I usually do 2-3 passes, Don't tighten all the way down the first pass. Last pass is to torque specs if they list one. Don't over tighten either, you just crush the gasket and have to start all over.

                    Comment

                    • bbjumper

                      #11
                      Originally posted by hampshirehog
                      If you have to use gasket goop on those areas something is wrong - they should seal easily. Are you sure that there are no old bits of gasket stuck on the sump? Plus replace the O ring on the oil filter cover if you haven't already done so.
                      Ditto that, mating surface needs to free of old gasket material and "NO" oil on the surface either...

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