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installing carbs gs1000

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    installing carbs gs1000

    1980 gs1000. Trying to get carbs to go into rubber manifolds on head. Can't seem to force them in. Is there a proceedure that make this happen any easier?
    Thanks!
    george

    #2
    Are your intake boots new or old? sometimes they can be a bit of a brute, a bit of lubricant on the boots can help, it's just a bit of force and push sometimes.
    Rob
    1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
    Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533

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      #3
      A bit of lubrication helps -- a few drops of oil wiped onto each boot.

      Also, make sure they are installed correctly. Dunno about your bike, but on some bikes there are right and left boots and they must be installed the right way up and in the correct locations or things will never line up.

      If the boots are old and hardened, the correct procedure is to remove one's Visa card from the dusty recesses of one's wallet with the index finger and thumb and order up new ones.
      1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
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        #4
        Cargo straps and something to put behind the carbs to put pressure to the boots evenly, like a length of wood.
        sigpic
        Steve
        "The world is a book, and those who do not travel read only one page."
        _________________
        '79 GS1000EN
        '82 GS1100EZ

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          #5
          Thanks so far everyone. I believe that my "left" and "right" manifolds are correct, L and R facing up. There is one new manifold and three old. They all felt about the same softness. I have applied lube and my next thought was to fab some way to assist with leverage as has been suggested. This has helped me to realize that they are apparently often difficult and some futher force may be required. I 'll post again.
          Thanks!
          george

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            #6
            heat is your friend, a hair dryer works wonders.

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              #7
              Well it was a forceful event but there on there. Used a 2x4 in front and one in back with with some 24" wood clamps to squeeze em in. they seem to have survived.
              Thanks for the help.
              g

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                #8
                WOW , that's crazy, I've never had to even come close to doing that kind of surgery to get carbs in, too bad you didn't have a picture of that setup, would have liked to have seen that. Anyways, glad you got them on, bet you're not looking forward to that again.
                Rob
                1983 1100ES, 98' ST1100, 02' DR-Z400E and a few other 'bits and pieces'
                Are you on the GSR Google Earth Map yet? http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=170533

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                  #9
                  Squeeze the front brake and hold it back with a bungee so the bike doesnt roll off the stand.

                  Next just a little WATER will lube them. I dont use oil for the fact that it doesnt dry out and allow the rubber to seal against the throats. Water WILL dry out and let DRY rubber touch the throats.

                  Third..put down the rear foot pegs and get you leg in front of them for added body leverage.

                  Roll thecrabs in starting them into the BOTTOMS of the carb holders. Thius allows you to look down and use a flat tip screwdriver to help coax the airbox boots past the intake sides of the carbs. Have the clamps off the airbox boots nd back against the casing to not bend them up. once all is in place, slip the clamps up into location and tighten them up.
                  MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
                  1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

                  NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


                  I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                    Next just a little WATER will lube them. I dont use oil for the fact that it doesnt dry out and allow the rubber to seal against the throats. Water WILL dry out and let DRY rubber touch the throats.
                    Why not use grease?

                    Don't you always lube/grease your o-rings? Why would this be any different?

                    With some grease on mine, they slid right in, and I am unaware of any vacuum leaks.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by lemonshindig View Post
                      Why not use grease?

                      Don't you always lube/grease your o-rings? Why would this be any different?

                      With some grease on mine, they slid right in, and I am unaware of any vacuum leaks.
                      i always smear them with silicone grease. no problems....
                      1978 GS1085.

                      Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

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                        #12
                        I have replaced lots of them with no problems. On one of my 1000Gs, they are always a bitch to do. I think that they weren't made right or something. One thing though, once you have them in, they are easier the next time.

                        Some times they are more difficult than they are at other times.
                        sigpic Too old, too many bikes, too many cars, too many things

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by chuck hahn View Post
                          Roll thecrabs in starting them into the BOTTOMS of the carb holders. Thius allows you to look down and use a flat tip screwdriver to help coax the airbox boots past the intake sides of the carbs.
                          Since I just pulled out my carbs (with difficulty) this thread is timely for me. But my go-to tool for something like this is a Craftsman Cotter Pin Puller $8 - or a Harbor Freight Radiator Hose Pick $3. I prefer the Craftsman tool; I use it all the time to get hoses on and off. Due to the bend it is much easier to use than a screwdriver, particularly in places with little clearance.

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