Stripped rotor puller threads now what? 1150

[Carter Turk]

My starter clutch is trying to shoot a pin out. Rotor nut is off, but the rotor puller or me stripped the threads on the rotor itself. I've done this job several times in the past w/no issues, but this time is a no go. I've used heat, tapping, etc., threads are gone. Any suggestions on where to go from here? Thanks.

[posplayr]

try this




whoops, you stripped the rotor?

[Guest]

Tap and die is your best bet.

[blowerbike]

Tap and die is your best bet.

that would be one big MO FO die there william

[blowerbike]

My starter clutch is trying to shoot a pin out. Rotor nut is off, but the rotor puller or me stripped the threads on the rotor itself. I've done this job several times in the past w/no issues, but this time is a no go. I've used heat, tapping, etc., threads are gone. Any suggestions on where to go from here? Thanks.

the threads on the rotor and puller have a short life.
now is time to have someone weld your puller to your rotor and then pull it off.
buy a replacement rotor and move on.
been there...done that...sucks but it happens.

[Carter Turk]

I'm willing at this point to sacrifice the rotor, thinking I might have to dremel the rotor off. I already have the rotor puller, but know the threads look a little buggered. Not as buggered as the threads on the rotor. The moment I touch the end of the crankshaft with the rotor puller bolt, the puller threads attached to the rotor, pull off.

[bwringer]

Would a ginormous three-jaw puller work on this? You might be able to rent one, but I don't know whether you'd be able to get a grip on the rotor.

[blowerbike]

Would a ginormous three-jaw puller work on this? You might be able to rent one, but I don't know whether you'd be able to get a grip on the rotor.

a large taper GS crank kicks a large 3 jaw puller's azz...or at least my 1150 rotor did.
the rotor and center are 2 different parts so the rotor just flexes and breaks the magnets that doesn't really matter at this point...
carter has zero to lose right now...go for it with LOTS of heat an impact and a BIG hammer!

[bwringer]

a large taper GS crank kicks a large 3 jaw puller's azz...or at least my 1150 rotor did.
the rotor and center are 2 different parts so the rotor just flexes and breaks the magnets that doesn't really matter at this point...
carter has zero to lose right now...go for it with LOTS of heat an impact and a BIG hammer!

That's what I was afraid of.

I once rebuilt an engine and just left the damn rotor in place on the crankshaft. Couldn't shift it.

The manual cheerfully tells you to use a slide hammer... yeah right.

[Carter Turk]

Here's a photo. A pin attempting to shoot out at about 3:00.

[blowerbike]

both part and tool are now junk.
get a buddy to come over with his welder and run some beads after you pound the puller on flush.
hit with an impact and off it should come.

[Carter Turk]

Here's another just for your enjoyment, not mine. Was thinking maybe I could drill through the puller into the the rotor and tap a pin in, then attempt to twist the bolt onto the end of the crankshaft?

Blower, not really seeing removal of the rotor once the puller is welded on. How would that happen, just twist the bolt on the end of the crank as normal?

[blowerbike]

yes pound puller fLush with rotor(THREAD ON) then hit with hammer to seat it all the way and then weld really well.
use impact on the center bolt of the puller....should POP!

[Carter Turk]

Thanks for the tips.

[rapidray]

Carter, I have punched the pins back in before where yours is sticking out & welded a bead over that area to keep them from punching through. You could do that & run it till you come up with a new rotor assembly. After you get another rotor you could then weld the puller to this one & remove it. That gives you some more riding time till you come up with the new parts. Just an idea for you. Ray.