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Went to Ace Hardware and got grade 8, 1/4-20, 1 1/2" bolts. Not going to use the stainless. Got two brand new taps and bees wax for lubricant. I figure if I don't go too deep I will not flumux it up so bad that a machine shop can't fix it, which is where the head is going if I have to pull it.
Any thoughts if I should use blue locktite, antiseize, or nothing at all when it goes back together ?
I thank everyone for their input,
NickComment
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no no no no no loctite!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
a little itsy bitsy drip of engine oil on bolt is fine after you have tapped it.
or a dab of moly lube on the threads...Comment
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That's what I love about this forum, no ambiguity from the senior members. I have been searching other forums for aluminum tapping techniques and lubricants. So far I have had people swear by WD40, kerosene, beeswax, brake fluid, motor oil, 10 weight oil, and Tap Magic but use the old stuff that stinks. If I had any hair I would be pulling it out right now.
Thanks for the info guys, I will let you know how it works out.
NickComment
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Aluminum taps very nicely. Just be sure to use a sharp tap and apply the correct limited pressure while starting it. Personally i would have done 1/4-28 for internal machine components. If wd40 is all you have available it will work for the tap. Obviously designated tapping fluid is ideal. We use 'rapid tap' its a great all purpose fluid.
Use loctite responsibly with 1/4-28, i would never expect that hardware to back out anyways. 1/4-20 may have a possibility of working itself back out being coarser. A very small dab of blue loctite wont do much harm. One drip of blue will do a bunch of those bolts. Just dont go and dip them in it! I dont normally use locktite on aluminum. but i go by the hardware fitment. A drop of blue on your finger tip smeared across your finger tip,, not a puddle. Roll your bolt 1/4 of its length or less over your finger tip. Thats all you need in a worst case scenario.Last edited by Guest; 12-06-2013, 10:15 AM.Comment
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One of my spark plug holes are heli-coiled on the chamber side.
No problems with that in like 10 years!Comment
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This was so easy !!! I spent more time cutting strips of cloth to keep shavings out of the engine than I did cutting the threads. The cam cap made the perfect guide block to get me started straight. I used wd40 for lube, frequent cleaning of the holes with Qtips and compressed air. 1/2 turn in and 1/4 turn out technique. Torqued the bolts down to 84 inch pounds. Put it all back together and she purrs like a kitten. Too rainy and cold to get on the highway and open her up right now.
This forum is the best and the donation I give to support it is returned many times over. Again I want to thank everyone for their input.
NickComment
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Finally warmed up enough to get the bike on the road. Now the bike bogs down at 1/3 throttle and up. Starts and idles just fine. I did not touch the carbs or airbox. Any thoughts on what is causing this ?Comment
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Did you get the cams timed spot on for sure?sigpic
Don't say can't, as anything is possible with time and effort, but, if you don't have time things get tougher and require more effort.Comment
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Yeah I counted the pins twice.Comment
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Apart from counting the pins, did you align the crank on the TDC 1-4 mark then follow the full valve timing procedure?sigpic
Don't say can't, as anything is possible with time and effort, but, if you don't have time things get tougher and require more effort.Comment
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No I need to read up on that procedure. Will I need a timing light ? This bike is getting beyond my mechanical knowledge and I cant find anyone local who knows how to work on the old Japanese bikes. I thank you for your input.
NickComment
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