82GS750T - Seal, T/M Gear Shift Oil

[GSXR7ED]

Trying Again

Hi Ed!

Although this doesn't have anything to do with filling the brake lines with fluid, the only place the MC can realistically be clogged up (with as much cleaning as you've already done) is the pin-hole return port. It's one of the two holes in the bottom of the reservoir. One is large and the other is very, very small. Remove the piston, clear the MC completely of fluid, and shine a bright flashlight into the bore. You should see plenty of light through one hole and just a tiny pinhole through the other. The tiniest strand of copper wire you can find should be able to poke it out.

A dry, freshly-cleaned brake system often needs to be "primed" before the MC will start pushing fluid through of its own accord. This is where most people seem to have trouble and either can't get the fluid to flow at all or end up with non-functional or spongy brakes. I'm not an expert at this by any means, but this is my preferred fool-proof brake-bleeding procedure (so far):

1) Rig up your bleeding hoses or whatever you have down by the calipers.

2) Fill the brake reservoir with fluid. While bleeding, don't let it get empty enough to suck air into the system.

3) Remove the brake handle, fill the reservoir with fluid, crack open one bleeder and push the piston in with a screwdriver as far as it will go. Do this a couple times. It will push more air out of the MC than with the brake lever alone. Reattach the brake lever.

4) Use suction instead of pressure to bleed the lines. Down at the calipers, use some kind of vacuum source to pull fluid through the system. There are special vacuum bleeding setups you can buy at great cost, or you can be cheap like me and spend about $1 on a large plastic medical syringe: http://www.amazon.com/Special-Pack-I...s=60cc+syringe

You may have to alternate #3 and #4 once or twice to clear the MC of air. It may or may not help to lightly tap the MC with something plastic. Start to finish, this takes me about 15 minutes. Tying back the brake lever and letting it sit overnight is something I've seen recommended by fellow forum members.

I walked away from bleeding the brake this past week; today is laundry day and a perfect time to re-engage this brake bleeding process.

As I was using the "suction" tool and squeezing the handle. I did notice the second hole had a tiny hole that, on occasion, let some tiny bubbles come up to the top. I did not want to remove the handle so I'm pumping away but have yet to get a proper seal.

Since I am not in a real quick hurry, I'll continue to add brake fluid and try to get that resistance needed to engage the caliper piston to squeeze the brake pads.

I've already filled the MC 3+ times and have about 3-4 oz in the suction tool reservoir. The fluid has yet to apply pressure to the caliper piston. I've tightened the bolt/banjo/2 washers (one on each side of the banjo) going in to the caliper because there was a slight leak.

I've also opened the bleeder valve and then closed it so that the fluid can go into the caliper. I think that's where the fluid needs to fill the most.

Like I said, I'm in no hurry so not getting too frustrated with this process.



Ed

[GSX1000E]

Have you tried to barely pump it just enough to dislodge the tiny bubbles that are trapped in the first 1/4" of brake lever through? As long as you keep getting those tiny bubbles, you still have too much air in the master.

[GSXR7ED]

Keep Plugging At It

Have you tried to barely pump it just enough to dislodge the tiny bubbles that are trapped in the first 1/4" of brake lever through? As long as you keep getting those tiny bubbles, you still have too much air in the master.

Hmmmm....I'm just pumping what seems like plenty of fluids through the suction reservoir but not getting a complete cycle of fluids going. At some point, I'm guessing, I'll pump this so much that the air bubble/pocket I'm messin' with will eventually vacate the line.

Like I said, I'm not in any hurry and I know it will eventually FILTER through the line. Plus, it doesn't help that I'm in watching NetFLIX while I'm doing this work and get easily distracted. (Breaking Bad is DARN good!)

It doesn't mean I'm not determined...just get easily side-tracked instead of getting frustrated with this task.

Thanks for your input...I truly appreciate the feedback I get from everyone. Don't lose faith in me...I'm just getting sidetracked instead of frustrated.



Ed

[GSXR7ED]

Almost there

Still going at it...maybe today I will get the air out.

Planning my trip to DE...been a little preoccupied.


Ed

[GSXR7ED]

My Loss in Ride Time

Hi Ed!

Although this doesn't have anything to do with filling the brake lines with fluid, the only place the MC can realistically be clogged up (with as much cleaning as you've already done) is the pin-hole return port. It's one of the two holes in the bottom of the reservoir. One is large and the other is very, very small. Remove the piston, clear the MC completely of fluid, and shine a bright flashlight into the bore. You should see plenty of light through one hole and just a tiny pinhole through the other. The tiniest strand of copper wire you can find should be able to poke it out.

A dry, freshly-cleaned brake system often needs to be "primed" before the MC will start pushing fluid through of its own accord. This is where most people seem to have trouble and either can't get the fluid to flow at all or end up with non-functional or spongy brakes. I'm not an expert at this by any means, but this is my preferred fool-proof brake-bleeding procedure (so far):

1) Rig up your bleeding hoses or whatever you have down by the calipers.

2) Fill the brake reservoir with fluid. While bleeding, don't let it get empty enough to suck air into the system.

3) Remove the brake handle, fill the reservoir with fluid, crack open one bleeder and push the piston in with a screwdriver as far as it will go. Do this a couple times. It will push more air out of the MC than with the brake lever alone. Reattach the brake lever.

4) Use suction instead of pressure to bleed the lines. Down at the calipers, use some kind of vacuum source to pull fluid through the system. There are special vacuum bleeding setups you can buy at great cost, or you can be cheap like me and spend about $1 on a large plastic medical syringe: http://www.amazon.com/Special-Pack-I...s=60cc+syringe

You may have to alternate #3 and #4 once or twice to clear the MC of air. It may or may not help to lightly tap the MC with something plastic. Start to finish, this takes me about 15 minutes. Tying back the brake lever and letting it sit overnight is something I've seen recommended by fellow forum members.

#3 worked and I feel like a dummy because I was being too lazy to remove the electrical line going to the bottom of the MC.

I pushed the piston in with a screwdriver a couple of times and viola, instant pressure. Of course, I also used the suction tool and filled in the MC once before the caliper compressed the brake pads!

My loss is riding time...so I'm not going to be too hard on myself. I have my SUV scheduled for Maintenance tomorrow and I needed my "T" to take to work this week while the Honda is in the shop. It's gotta get done before my flight on Friday.

So I'm a "push-come-to-shove", "light a fire under my butt", type of person when it comes to my bike.

I'm happy now...FINALLY!



Ed

[GSXR7ED]

Tough Start

Killed the battery trying to start my bike. Key points:

-Gas tank read under 1/4 tank
-Switched the fuel petcock to PRI after a couple of starts

A fellow neighbor saw me and said, you're gonna kill your battery. He suggested some "Miracle Oil" so off I went to get gas and a red bottle of this oil.

Returned and added fuel and 1 cap-full of the miracle oil; also had the petcock on PRI. It turned over but would stay on. One last try and the battery was exhausted.

She's back in my apartment with battery tender connected. I shall try again tomorrow.

Front brake feels awesome...barely have to squeeze and the front wheel stops. I noticed a slight leak on the caliper/banjo which I will take care of immediately.




Ed

[GSXR7ED]

Continuous Learning

I put my "T" on battery tender for 6 hours and took her outside for a RESTART.

She fired up!

But I think I'm gonna need a new battery and maybe other components because it's the first time I drained her.

I'm gonna try and ride to work this week. Let's see how things work out.



Ed

[GSXR7ED]

Riding Time - 24 Feb 2014

Rode to work today! Man it feels good; weather is perfect!

BRAKES WORK GREAT!

She's a little sluggish...I was right about the battery...need a new one. I had to push-start her this morning but she fired right up!


Ed

[dorkburger]

NICE!.....Make sure you park at the top of a hill....Used that trick recently......

[Guest]

Ed remember what I said about your charging system when I saw the R/R unit you had on your bike. Once you get the new battery and I would do a complete test on the charging system to make sure that isn't part of the problem. These systems are famous for crapping out when you least expect it. It can literally happen in minutes.

[eil]

Woohoo!

We're getting back into the negative temps this week. This winter is too long. I'm jonesin', JONESIN' for a ride.

[GSXR7ED]

Replies

NICE!.....Make sure you park at the top of a hill....Used that trick recently......

I'm starting to waddle pretty fast now to pick up speed and pop the clutch.

Ed remember what I said about your charging system when I saw the R/R unit you had on your bike. Once you get the new battery and I would do a complete test on the charging system to make sure that isn't part of the problem. These systems are famous for crapping out when you least expect it. It can literally happen in minutes.

Yes, I need to come see you Bill! I suck at the electrical stuff. I think I blew my starter or the starter solenoid. I checked all the fuses and they are good. Here's what it says in the owner's manual:

Do not engage the starter motor for more than five (5) seconds at a time as it may overheat the wiring harness and starter motor. If the engine does not start after several attempts, check the fuel supply and ignition system. (Refer to the troubleshooting section)

I'm looking around and tryna do my own research. Also getting ready for my trip to Delaware. So packing and TurboTax are on my agenda.

I'll try and come out and see you when I get back next Friday 7 Mar.

Woohoo!

We're getting back into the negative temps this week. This winter is too long. I'm jonesin', JONESIN' for a ride.

Sorry to hear about that...this is the second day I've ridden to work. Morning Temps are in the upper 50s.

I bought a new helmet & gloves last week and they arrived yesterday. BELL helmet for $39.00 and some A-Star gloves. I've got a picture somewhere. Someone started a thread with the clearance specials and I took advantage. I also have an HJC helmet coming in today. Love my toys!




Ed

[GSXR7ED]

New Helmets!

Here are my recent acquisitions:

NOTE: The HJC is a Medium--fits snug but I think my cabeza will stretch it out!





Ed

[dorkburger]

Nice. Let us know how you like them. My Simpson super bandit is noisy and LONG overdue for a replacement. Im looking for a quieter, lighter helmet when money allows. Preferrably in solid white.

[eil]

BELL helmet for $39.00

Daaaaang! Good deal! I have the same Bell Arrow helmet (only in solid silver) and it was $99 at the time. Could do with a chin curtain in cooler temps and the face shield mechanism isn't as smooth as I'd like. But other than that, I like it much.