Tach Cable Seal Replacement - Broken Retainer Screw

[growler]

Got my new seals and was just following along Bwringer's Tutorial on tach cable seal replacement when I broke off the retaining plate screw.

Here are a couple photos. Where to go from here? Left-handed bits? Extractor? I attempted to grind a slot in it with my dremel but the angle was difficult. I can attempt to remove the exhaust if necessary. I'll probably end up braking a bolt or two doing that as well.

[bwringer]

Since the plate is still in place, you still have a goodly portion of the screw left.

Two main options:

- If you have a welder, it's worth trying to weld a nut onto that stub. The parts are small, so a few dabs with a small wire welder would work well. Your grandpa's 220V buzzbox with a foot-long stick might be a touch indelicate... The heat of the welding will also help break it loose.

- If not, a left-handed drill bit would likely fix ya right up. Heat up the screw just a bit with a torch or large soldering iron beforehand, then carefully center punch and start drilling. Harbor Freight sells an astonishingly nice set of left-handed drill bits (really), but they're often out of stock. A good REAL hardware store (not a big box or a home store -- you need an Ace or similar) often will have left-handed drill bits.

- Another possibility is a widget called a "GRABIT" Damaged Screw Remover. You can get sets of them and maybe even individual removers at most home stores or hardware stores. The screw you're removing is a 5mm thread, so you'll want Grabit #1, for #10 bolts. http://www.thegrabitstore.com/Pages/default.aspx

Grabits basically drill a little cone-shaped "socket" into the end of the screw, then the splines dig in. Unlike other extractors, they can't get stuck deep in the screw -- even if you manage to break one, a few taps will dislodge it.


Do NOT, EVER, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES even think about the merest possibility of using any other kind of extractor. They NEVER work. EZ-outs are LIES, straight from Satan.

[Steve]

Harbor Freight sells an astonishingly nice set of left-handed drill bits (really), but they're often out of stock.

I have also seen left-handed bits at Auto Zone.

.

[growler]

Thanks for the advice. I had read about the Harbor Freight left-handed drill bits, and it's nice to hear someone recommend them. I'll try to pick a set up and give it a whirl.

[Larry D]

I feel I'll be doing the same type of operation that you're about to do. I've done it before and the trick is getting the bolt center punched as near the center as possible so the drill doesn't work to one side or the other and drilling with caution. Good Luck !!

[bwringer]

I feel I'll be doing the same type of operation that you're about to do. I've done it before and the trick is getting the bolt center punched as near the center as possible so the drill doesn't work to one side or the other and drilling with caution. Good Luck !!

Dang, Larry, that's still got some thread sticking out. Easy-peasy.

Perfect candidate for the old weld-on-a-nut trick.

Have I ever mentioned my snazzy new Harbor Freight flux wire welder...?

[growler]

Good luck to you as well. Let us know how it goes!

I feel I'll be doing the same type of operation that you're about to do. I've done it before and the trick is getting the bolt center punched as near the center as possible so the drill doesn't work to one side or the other and drilling with caution. Good Luck !!

[Wingsconsin]

This can work

Sears Deck Out - Same as the Grabit .. http://www.sears.com/craftsman-3-pc-...p-00952151000P

We stock them at the Sears Germantown

I have used it for a wide variety of stuck fasteners and it works..it has the power of your drill in reverse to torque those fasteners out...