Screw on Oil Filter Adapter

[Guest]

I went through the ordeal of an oil change the other day, and I must say it was terrible. I went through rounded out acorn nuts, crushing a gasket, etc. It shouldn't take me that long again, but I there has got to be a better way. This has got me to thinking. Why couldn't you convert the open filter element into a modern screw on type deal? Basically bolt a frame the current studs that holds a cylinder over the current oil intake, and would have threads for a screw on oil filter on the other side.

Questions:
1. Is there anything like this currently out there?
2. How do the oil filter wells on the bike's compare to one another. Would a single size adapter fit all, or would it be necessary to machine different sizes for different years/ccs
3. What kind of flow are we talking here? What type screw on filter would it be necessary to use in order to gain equivalent or better performance from stock?
4. Is anyone else interested in this sort of thing? I may be the only one nostalgic for the days of ten minute oil changes with a piece of junk (as far as most of the engineering goes) bike like a buell blast.

(Also in a semi related note does anyone know the nut thread type for the oil filter studs? I used 6m .75 pitch, but that was only because it went on with the least effort. 6M 1.0 pitch didn't seem to fit at all.)

[bwringer]

This thought has come up before, but the oil system on the 8-valve GS engines with roller bearing cranks operates with very little pressure. There simply aren't any spin-on filters that will work with low pressure oiling.

On other GS models (16V engines that use plain bearings and high-pressure oil) I've seen an arrangement that plumbed an oil filter in line with an oil cooler. No idea how well it worked, and on some 16V models oil flow to the head is already somewhat marginal -- introducing another restriction in the form of an external filter and plumbing might not be the greatest idea.


The stock filter works fine. Changing it will become much easier with a little experience and when you replace the studs for your oil filter cover. They're 6mm X 1.0 pitch. Order new studs and nuts from Suzuki. Or you can find M6 studs that are a bit longer many other places and use open nuts.

[nejeff]

2 of my studs came out on one oil change so I now just use stainless allen head bolts with lock washers, works just fine

[chuck hahn]

And clean the oring groove with some carb spray to de oil it. Then a few strategically placed dabs of RTV will hold the oring into the groove and prevent it from coming out and getting pinched. And if your bike doesnt have the sump drain plug in the cover..like it should..get a new cover and drain the sump for a while before removing the cover.

[chuck hahn]

Nebraska.....you may want to go back to the studs and red loctite them in..heres why. The steel screws going in and out a lot will chew up the aluminum in the case and eventually your chit out of luck. The nut and stud arrangement eliminates the cases from being chewed up or cross threading them.

[1980GS1000E]

2 of my studs came out on one oil change so I now just use stainless allen head bolts with lock washers, works just fine

You really would be better off installing the studs while the soft aluminum of the engine case still has some threads left. They will strip and then you will need to helicoil them.