Valve adjustment on a 16v

[claygs750e]

So I'm getting ready to do the valve adjustment on my 16v engine and I've never done this before and have questions. I've been reading through BikeCliffs instructions and the fist thing I notice is almost all of the valves won't even let me push in the smallest gauge which is .203mm. Could everyone of the valves need adjusted because they are all so tight? Also, I've read a lot about the shims, but BikeCliff's document only states to loosing the locking nut to make the adjustment. Is this all I need to do so I don't have to buy the shims?

[blowerbike]

no shims...
if a .003 will go and a .008 won't...
i wouldn't break the nut loose.
oh,
those little nuts...if you don't get them REALLY tight they will come loose and reek havoc in your engine.

[Steve]

If your smallest feeler gauge is a .203mm, ... STOP.

Do not pass GO, do not collect $200.

Spend about $10 or so and get a PROPER feeler gauge set and stop using the metric APPROXIMATIONS that are printed on your INCH feelers.

You say you have been reading the procedure, did you notice that the recommended clearance is 0.08 - 0.13mm? You are using a feeler that is almost twice as thick as the maximum clearance, so you really have NO idea what your clearance is. There is a decent chance that they are in-spec. Hey, they could all be LOOSE, and in the 0.15 - 0.18mm range, but you would think they are tight because you are using a feeler that is WAY to big.

Your bike does not use shims, but I almost have a feeling that they might be easier for you.

.

[claygs750e]

I thought possibly the gauge was too big o I was reading it incorrectly, but I guess the fact that there was almost no space whatsoever was making me second guess myself. I will get a proper gauge today and perform the measurement. If I do need to make the adjustments all I need to do is loosen the nut, back out the adjustment od to the correct level and tighten the nut again correct?

[mikerophone]

If I do need to make the adjustments all I need to do is loosen the nut, back out the adjustment od to the correct level and tighten the nut again correct?

And double check to make sure the "screw" didn't turn when you tighten the nut. Did you already make yourself a special tool with a square headed wood screw screwed part way into a wooden dowel? I like to make 2 tools and have 2 gauges and loosen both valves on the arm, making both adjustments at the same time.

Also these feeler gauges at Z1 are great.

[Guest]

These are called Tappet style adjusters.
I use a 9mm closed end wrench and a small (very small) pair of pliers.
The tool is much easier but I've been doing it this way for years.
Motion Pro makes a great tool for this and it's worth the small investment.

[claygs750e]

I appreciate all the good information and I will be making the wood/screw tool shortly. When making the adjustments if I need to stay within the 0.08 - 0.13mm limits is it best to get all the adjustment the exact same? Is it best to get in the lower, higher end of the range or aim for the middle.

[Steve]

Anywhere in the range will be fine. Some are anal enough to set them all EXACTLY the same, but it's not necessary.

Personally, I would set them on the loose side, it tends to enhance low- and mid-range torque, but at the expense of losing a pony or two at the top end. I spend more time a low and mid RPM, so it's a good trade for me.

.

[blowerbike]

no shims...
if a .003 will go and a .008 won't...
i wouldn't break the nut loose.
oh,
those little nuts...if you don't get them REALLY tight they will come loose and reek havoc in your engine.

_______________________________________

[claygs750e]

Good thing I bought the right tool because all measured between .09mm and .10mm so no adjustments are needed. Before I button up the valve cover is there anything else I should take a look at as far as maintenance items or common upgades/mods? thanks guys