Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

GS1100E oil pan replacement

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    Update: Got the solid insert kit, drained the oil, taped it, screwed the insert in with thread lock, seated it with the punch provided and voila! It worked perfectly. Thanks to all, again without you guys I would not be able to effect repairs efficiently and cheaply (for me.) Now, the adventure continues...
    1984 GS1150ES (finally arrived, more to come...)
    1989 Dodge Dakota (the perfect Oregon work truck)
    1980 Sears "Free Spirit" bicycle (original patina and everything!)
    1978 "The Executive" RV (vintage like its owner)

    How can I be in two places at once when i'm not anywhere at all?

    Can I double park in a parallel universe?

    Comment


      #17
      Originally posted by oregonjake View Post
      Update: Got the solid insert kit, drained the oil, taped it, screwed the insert in with thread lock, seated it with the punch provided and voila! It worked perfectly. Thanks to all, again without you guys I would not be able to effect repairs efficiently and cheaply (for me.) Now, the adventure continues...
      You didn't pull the pan did ya? If you didn't you need to, why? Because when you install the steel threaded insert into the pan, on the inside it will have a small lip and won't be able to drain the oil out of the pan completely. You have to cut two notches into the insert for the oil to drain completely out.
      sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
      1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
      2015 CAN AM RTS


      Stuff I've done to my bike 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by geol View Post
        The drain plug is M14 with 1.5 pitch...
        In case anyone is watching, this is incorrect. Drain plugs with M14 threads on a GS use 1.25mm thread pitch, same as a spark plug.
        1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
        2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
        2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
        Eat more venison.

        Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

        Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

        SUPPORT THIS SITE! DONATE TODAY!

        Get "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at https://tro.bike/podcast/ or wherever you listen to podcasts!

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by bwringer View Post
          In case anyone is watching, this is incorrect. Drain plugs with M14 threads on a GS use 1.25mm thread pitch, same as a spark plug.
          It never ceases to amaze me how you remember every damn thread pitch on every GS bolt.....

          sigpic

          SUZUKI:
          1978 GS1000E; 1980 GS1000G; 1982 GS650E; 1982 GS1100G; 1982 GS1100E; 1985 GS700ES
          HONDA: 1981 CB900F Super Sport
          KAWASAKI: 1981 KZ550A-2; 1984 ZX750A-2 (aka GPZ750); 1984 KZ700A-1
          YAMAHA: 1983 XJ750RK Seca

          Free speech is the foundation of an open society. Each time a society bans a word or phrase it deems “offensive”, it chips away at that very foundation upon which it was built.

          Comment


            #20
            I screwed up. I found out I was wrong when I changed the oil on my project GS1000G this weekend. Of course, the thread came out and I measured the drain plug: M14-1.25 as has been stated. First, you can buy "oversize" drain bolts that are just a wee bit larger than stated size for MOST drain bolt sizes, such as the M14-1.50 pitch. Not the M14-1.25 pitch. The good news is that this size is the same size as our spark plugs and if anyone has repaired a spark plug thread, the same tools and inserts can be used. I work on Kawasakis mostly and they also use B8ES plugs and these are also M14-1.25 pitch. I had a Balkamp 77003223 repair kit on hand and the medium length insert is the perfect length to use on the drain thread. I put a how-to in the TIPS section I believe it was but essentially, you use the supplied tap to cut new thread. The tap is two-stage with the first stage M14-1.25 and inserting it gets the tap started. The second stage on the tap is larger diameter to accommodate the insert. NAPA sells these kits for around $40 plus you can buy spare inserts if you need to fix any spark plugs thread.

            Grease up your tap as a lot of shavings will drop down. Put the insert on your drain plug and coat the plug with grease first. Then put hi-temp gasket maker RTV on the outside of the insert and wipe the hole it goes in to get as much of the oil off the new thread as possible and just screw it into place and torque. The resulting insert repair is MUCH more solid than the alloy from the factory. These are solid inserts! It took me about 1/2 hour to do the job front to back and I would recommend it if you find your drain plug thread questionable. Sorry for stating the wrong pitch initially. As has been stated, most of the thread pitch on M8 and M10 bolts on the bike are 1.25 pitch as is also the case on a Kawasaki. Not sure why.

            Comment

            Working...
            X