GS1100E oil pan replacement

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    #16
    Update: Got the solid insert kit, drained the oil, taped it, screwed the insert in with thread lock, seated it with the punch provided and voila! It worked perfectly. Thanks to all, again without you guys I would not be able to effect repairs efficiently and cheaply (for me.) Now, the adventure continues...

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    • Guest

      #17
      Originally posted by oregonjake
      Update: Got the solid insert kit, drained the oil, taped it, screwed the insert in with thread lock, seated it with the punch provided and voila! It worked perfectly. Thanks to all, again without you guys I would not be able to effect repairs efficiently and cheaply (for me.) Now, the adventure continues...
      You didn't pull the pan did ya? If you didn't you need to, why? Because when you install the steel threaded insert into the pan, on the inside it will have a small lip and won't be able to drain the oil out of the pan completely. You have to cut two notches into the insert for the oil to drain completely out.

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      • bwringer
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        • Oct 2003
        • 17066
        • Indianapolis

        #18
        Originally posted by geol
        The drain plug is M14 with 1.5 pitch...
        In case anyone is watching, this is incorrect. Drain plugs with M14 threads on a GS use 1.25mm thread pitch, same as a spark plug.
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        • Griffin
          Forum LongTimer
          Past Site Supporter
          • Sep 2003
          • 14205
          • Danville, IN

          #19
          Originally posted by bwringer
          In case anyone is watching, this is incorrect. Drain plugs with M14 threads on a GS use 1.25mm thread pitch, same as a spark plug.
          It never ceases to amaze me how you remember every damn thread pitch on every GS bolt.....

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          • geol

            #20
            I screwed up. I found out I was wrong when I changed the oil on my project GS1000G this weekend. Of course, the thread came out and I measured the drain plug: M14-1.25 as has been stated. First, you can buy "oversize" drain bolts that are just a wee bit larger than stated size for MOST drain bolt sizes, such as the M14-1.50 pitch. Not the M14-1.25 pitch. The good news is that this size is the same size as our spark plugs and if anyone has repaired a spark plug thread, the same tools and inserts can be used. I work on Kawasakis mostly and they also use B8ES plugs and these are also M14-1.25 pitch. I had a Balkamp 77003223 repair kit on hand and the medium length insert is the perfect length to use on the drain thread. I put a how-to in the TIPS section I believe it was but essentially, you use the supplied tap to cut new thread. The tap is two-stage with the first stage M14-1.25 and inserting it gets the tap started. The second stage on the tap is larger diameter to accommodate the insert. NAPA sells these kits for around $40 plus you can buy spare inserts if you need to fix any spark plugs thread.

            Grease up your tap as a lot of shavings will drop down. Put the insert on your drain plug and coat the plug with grease first. Then put hi-temp gasket maker RTV on the outside of the insert and wipe the hole it goes in to get as much of the oil off the new thread as possible and just screw it into place and torque. The resulting insert repair is MUCH more solid than the alloy from the factory. These are solid inserts! It took me about 1/2 hour to do the job front to back and I would recommend it if you find your drain plug thread questionable. Sorry for stating the wrong pitch initially. As has been stated, most of the thread pitch on M8 and M10 bolts on the bike are 1.25 pitch as is also the case on a Kawasaki. Not sure why.

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