Tappet depressor/valve shim tool video

[bwringer]

There are two secrets to using the OEM-style tool:

1) Make sure the surfaces are square. I have the Motion Pro tool, and it's sorta crappy. It had a casting ridge in the middle, but a few minutes with a file cleared that up.

2) The big secret? Apply some sideways pressure to the tool as you insert it. If you're on the right edge of a bucket, pull a little to the left as you insert the tool and it'll stay in place nicely, every time.


The zip-tie technique works great as well, and once you get the hang of it, it's almost as fast as using the shim tool. And, as Steve notes, there's less risk of the bucket banging into a cam and breaking a shim. Use whichever method floats your boat.

Honestly, I'm sort of wondering when someone is going to come up with something other than a Zip-tie -- maybe 3D print, machine, or cast a nice little plastic tool for this specific purpose. Could be really skookum.

[Guest]

I just sent Steve an email wondering if a popsicle stick or two wouldn't accomplish the same thing, but with a little firmer grip? You could wrap them with black electrical tape for a little extra cushion. What do you think bwringer?

[bwringer]

I'm not sure a popsicle stick would reach -- to do the zip-tie thing I think you need a bend at the end of the tool.


Also, one other point -- at the end of the German video, he uses a magnet to pull the shim out. In the manual, using a magnet is ganz verboten -- supposedly you run the risk of magnetizing the hardened shim, and if it sticks to the cam lobe and lifts out during an accidental overrev, things could get ugly fast. Also, any ferrous debris in the oil could end up sticking to the shim.

I don't know how much of an actual, real-life danger this is, but I figure there's no point in tempting the fates. I've got a big pair of tweezers I use for yoinking shims.

[JJ]

I'm not sure a popsicle stick would reach -- to do the zip-tie thing I think you need a bend at the end of the tool.


Also, one other point -- at the end of the German video, he uses a magnet to pull the shim out. In the manual, using a magnet is ganz verboten -- supposedly you run the risk of magnetizing the hardened shim, and if it sticks to the cam lobe and lifts out during an accidental overrev, things could get ugly fast. Also, any ferrous debris in the oil could end up sticking to the shim.

I don't know how much of an actual, real-life danger this is, but I figure there's no point in tempting the fates. I've got a big pair of tweezers I use for yoinking shims.

I'd never use a magnet, either. As you said, the FSM explicitly states not to use one. Like you, I have some extended-reach tweezers and needle nose pliers.

[Guest]

Good point. I hadn't considered that possibility. And yes, it seems like a cheap pair of forceps ought to do the trick just fine.

As to the zip tie vs shim tool debate, surely there are other choices besides a zip tie for holding the valve open. When I get mine apart, I'll study and see if I can come up with an alternative (but I plan to have the tool ready when I start). If I come up with anything clever, I'll post it along with a photo or two.

[Steve]

I have just replied to your e-mail and will also mention here: do not use a popsicle stick. It's not thick enough, it's not flexible enough.

It needs to be flexible enough to straighten out just a bit to slide down the spark plug hole, then resume its bend to end up under the valve.

It needs to be about 4-5 mm thick, so you can lift a shim that is about 2.5 mm thick out of the bucket, so you would need to double- or triple-up on the stick thicness, which would eliminate any flexibility.

Just in case you have difficulty picturing how it works, here is a basic drawing:


Rotate the cam to open the valve, slide the zip-tie in, rotate the cam so the lobe is away from the valve, remove the shim.

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[Sandy]

The zip ties are flexible, somewhat soft and easily formed to fit where you want. If you're going to use this method the zip ties are probably ideal. As far as the popsicle stick I'd avoid that because you would be surprised how much pressure the valve actually has and you're quite likely to chew part of the end off if not break it. An alternative I tried once was a piece of 6 or 8 gauge vinyl coated copper wire and was shocked that it chewed through the vinyl coating and actually left a divot in the copper. I'd say if you're going to use this method not to over think it and just use the zip ties. The larger the better I guess as that will give you a larger contact area on the valve to distribute the load.

[Guest]

You're quite the artist, aren't you Steve? Actually, that really simple line drawing shows the necessary elements really well - so thanks. Did you create the just for this response?

So it seems that ideally, the zip tie will already have the kink more-or-less permanently formed into it before it goes into the hole, right? We actually have a pretty good assortment of zip ties at work and I'll just "borrow" one of the longer ones for this.

[chuck hahn]

Use the buckle side of the zip tie..kink it about 1/2 inch above the buckle and stick between the head and valve pans. Use a thick zip tie too..whittle the buckle down on a grinder if it just happens to be a tad too thick. Ive done the zip tie method and much prefer the toll myself.

Only thing is the tool can slip off the edge of the bucket, but this is easily solved with a small flat tip to keep side pressure on the tool as you cam it down to depress the bucket.

[Guest]

The zip ties are flexible, somewhat soft and easily formed to fit where you want. If you're going to use this method the zip ties are probably ideal. As far as the popsicle stick I'd avoid that because you would be surprised how much pressure the valve actually has and you're quite likely to chew part of the end off if not break it. An alternative I tried once was a piece of 6 or 8 gauge vinyl coated copper wire and was shocked that it chewed through the vinyl coating and actually left a divot in the copper. I'd say if you're going to use this method not to over think it and just use the zip ties. The larger the better I guess as that will give you a larger contact area on the valve to distribute the load.

Alrighty then. Zip ties it is. Thanks to you and Steve for all the advice. I'm going to ALSO have the tool on hand when I start, so I'll be able to try both and see which one "feels" better.

Sandy.... I looked at a few of your albums on Flickr, and it really made me wish I had been on those rides. Apparently you live somewhere in the Northwest, and as it happens, I plan to relocate to Portland, Oregon when I retire in five or six years. You have a really good eye for composition, and you weren't using your cell phone to take those pictures, were you?

[Steve]

You're quite the artist, aren't you Steve? Actually, that really simple line drawing shows the necessary elements really well - so thanks. Did you create the just for this response?

Not for this particular response, but definitely for one of the thousands before yours that asked the same questions.

Use the buckle side of the zip tie..kink it about 1/2 inch above the buckle and stick between the head and valve pans.

I would not suggest doing it that way for at least two reasons. 1. Although the buckle is thicker, there is no way to double it up, which makes it safer. 2. You will have to position the buckle exactly correctly. If it slips off the edge of the valve or into the throat behind it, you have the same situation that you are trying to avoid: the valve will slam shut. If the buckle slides under the valve, there is a chance that it will get sheared off, because it is only single-thickness. Doubling the zip-tie and using tape or heat shrink to hold it folded ensures that all pieces will come out, in the rare event that something gets cut. I have only had one zip-tie get cut, and that was after intentionally using it for SIX full inventory sessions where I had to inspect every shim, then go through the process of changing a few. For most owners of a single, or maybe two bikes, one zip-tie will last a lifetime.

Only thing is the tool can slip off the edge of the bucket, but this is easily solved with a small flat tip to keep side pressure on the tool as you cam it down to depress the bucket.

My problem, when I have tried using the tool, is not in the process of inserting it, I usually manage to accidentally bump the tool while it is in place, which will knock it off the bucket, no matter who made the tool.

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[cowboyup3371]

Although I offered to take a video a few days ago to show how this is done, other commitments prevented doing so until today. Charmayne and I took this video this afternoon so hopefully it will help you. I will caution to never turn the cams without shims in each location.

[Sandy]

Great video, very concise. Should be a great help.

[Guest]

Although I offered to take a video a few days ago to show how this is done, other commitments prevented doing so until today. Charmayne and I took this video this afternoon so hopefully it will help you. I will caution to never turn the cams without shims in each location.

I'm the guy he offered to do the video for, and it is awesome. When I get everything together to actually do this procedure, I'll post my discoveries on this thread. Right now I have a new valve cover gasket, and I have an official Suzuki tool on the way.

[dwilson0725]

Thanks for the video Scott! I'm in the process of re-assembling a 5 year long rebuild (several moves in between) and was just about ready to perform a valve adjustment. I have the suzuki tool but that looks far simpler and accident free. Good lookin' out!