What do I lube the splines with? GS1000G

[Rijko]

What Cipher said.

Im worried about the wheel bearings (if I have those?)

Yes you have wheel bearings.
The wheel bearings are sealed, don't worry about them.
Inspect them. Put your finger inside and rotate them.
They should feel smooth, any play or crunchy feeling means new bearings.

[Noreg]

Wheels bearings soak in gasoline or maybe laquer thinner.
You could try contacting Honda Marine in Norway

https://kellox.no/pahengsmotor/honda-marine/

and ask them for the moly 60 via its part number.
08798-9010ch or 08798-9010
Its still listed on the Honda Canada wwebsite so Im not sure what all the hundreds of woriied posts across varying forums is about.

Should I take the wheel bearings out?

The local Suzuki dealer, is also the local Honda dealer. I will ask them about Honda Moly 60, and what they would use to grease the splines. I need a oil plug washer from them anyways (last one was stubborn so I cut it off), so I can just drop by. Need to ask the tyre place about my tyre and get some pasta for between brake disc and rim (so it wont be stuck the next time). All three places are pretty much at the same location.

I am sorry I am so clueless. This is really not my forte. I am used to just handing my keys to the dealer and coming back to a well serviced car. This is also the oldest vehicle I have owned. But I seem to be getting better at dealing with these things.

Part availibility here is terrible. And there is only one motorcycle shop, and they are waaay overworked now. But I want to learn, and deal with this myself. And make my bike like original again.

[Noreg]

What Cipher said.



Yes you have wheel bearings.
The wheel bearings are sealed, don't worry about them.
Inspect them. Put your finger inside and rotate them.
They should feel smooth, any play or crunchy feeling means new bearings.

So to see the wheel bearings I need to unscrew the brass (colored) disc? If that is the case, I will wait until I have proper JIS screwdrivers. I don't need more stripped screws. I am thinking of making a list of questionable bolts and screws and nuts and replacing them. I know one for the right switch assembly is shot, the one for the torque arm, a few of the ones on the carb, and probably more.

Good to know they are sealed so I can just spray down the splines with whatever solvent is handy.

Is it safe to assume they are in decent condition if I dont notice anything while riding? Ill need a new tyre in six weeks or so anyways, so I can always check them then. I dont think bearings usually has cathastropic failures without warning.

[Rijko]

Should I take the wheel bearings out?

NO. Unless "the finger" tells you otherwise.

Need to ask the tyre place about my tyre and get some pasta for between brake disc and rim (so it wont be stuck the next time).

Not needed. But if you want, the slightest dab of any grease or copper paste will do.
Check the inside of the disc and the outside of the wheel it mounts to for damage.
If the disc goes on easily and rotates freely, it's okay.

[Rijko]

Is it safe to assume they are in decent condition if I dont notice anything while riding? Ill need a new tyre in six weeks or so anyways, so I can always check them then. I dont think bearings usually has cathastropic failures without warning.

NO, the bearings can be shot without you noticing while riding.
Ask the shop replacing the tire to check the bearings.
(Which they always should do)

[Noreg]

NO. Unless "the finger" tells you otherwise.



Not needed. But if you want, the slightesst dab of any grease or copper paste will do.
Check the inside of the disc and the outside of the wheel it mounts to for damage.
If the disc goes on easily and rotates freely, it's okay.

I want, I realize I can probably just mount the rotor on the wheel directly. I would get some ease of mind putting some ceramic grease between the rotor and wheel though, and its cheap and easy. I don't think it can hurt.

The disc is new, so its nice and smooth. The wheel seems okay too.

I don't understand the "rotates freely", the studs would stop the disc from rotating. I doubt it would be hard to put the disc on the studs though. But since Im getting proper bolts, I dont want it to stick.

[Rijko]

I don't understand the "rotates freely", the studs would stop the disc from rotating. I doubt it would be hard to put the disc on the studs though. But since Im getting proper bolts, I dont want it to stick.

You had to wrestle the disc off, so something held on to it.
That could be corrosion between the wheel and disc, the studs, or damage.

Mount the new disc without studs or bolts and it should rotate
easily without force, and also without play.

[Grimly]

I've only ever used whatever grease I had to hand - variously that would be Castrol EP, Molyslip, Castrol something else and Fina Moly. Generally any grease I had.
I never left them ungreased on changing tyres. I've never had a spline wear out - in many many miles.
Basically, any grease will get you going better than no grease.
Of course, my bikes had the black splines originally.
In recent years I've bought rear wheels that had silver and gold splines and have seen the wear that others speak of.

[Noreg]

You had to wrestle the disc off, so something held on to it.
That could be corrosion between the wheel and disc, the studs, or damage.

Mount the new disc without studs or bolts and it should rotate
easily without force, and also without play.

I am slightly scared to remove the studs. Especially before I have new bolts. I assume corrosion (rust) held them together. There were some rust on the back of the disc.

I've only ever used whatever grease I had to hand - variously that would be Castrol EP, Molyslip, Castrol something else and Fina Moly. Generally any grease I had.
I never left them ungreased on changing tyres. I've never had a spline wear out - in many many miles.
Basically, any grease will get you going better than no grease.
Of course, my bikes had the black splines originally.
In recent years I've bought rear wheels that had silver and gold splines and have seen the wear that others speak of.

That makes me less worried. I guess I can throw the local moly grease on, and order the good stuff for the next tyre change.

Do you use the same grease for the axle? Mine had silver paste/grease. I am not sure where to buy that...

[Rijko]

I am slightly scared to remove the studs. Especially before I have new bolts.

If you have a problem, NOW is the time to deal with it and be ready
when the new stuff arrives. Have the wheel ready before it does.

Do you use the same grease for the axle? Mine had silver paste/grease. I am not sure where to buy that...

ANY grease is ok for the axle. The axle does not move, the grease on it is simply rust protection.

[Grimly]

Do you use the same grease for the axle? Mine had silver paste/grease. I am not sure where to buy that...

I used Never-Seez to lightly coat my axle, but given the cost of getting another tin of that, I've been using Copaslip instead.
Once you've encountered an axle the POs have never lubricated, you become very aware of the hassle caused by a corroded axle and trying to remove it.

[Big T]

Did your local Honda dealer tell you Moly 60 is discontinued?
Because, Honda makes a lot of shaft drive bikes, some dating back 45 years

[Nessism]

That Moly 60 stuff is discontinued, in the US anyway, but there is supposed to be a replacement. Not sure of the new PN or part name.

[Noreg]

I asked the local motorcycle dealer. The mechanic said, and I quote: "On the splines? There is usually some grease there, we don't put anything on them..." He was pretty confused about the whole thing it seemed. I am now pretty gratefull I am not using them for the tyre change.

He did give me the ring for the oil bolt for free though. It is round and weird and he says it becomes flat. I asked to get a flat one too just in case. Should I use the round one?

[Gorminrider]

That round one sounds to be a crush-washer-sometimes coppery in appearance...they crush to flat but try to stop tightening before then and you'll get more uses.

Similar crush-washers come on spark plugs.

That said, a flat washer can work if everything is really flat and smooth but can lead to over-torquing the bolt and stretching-then stripping the bolt. lastly, if a flat washer leaks, a piece of gasket paper under the washer can do the trick and somewhat indicate torque where it's a thicker variety.

You say the spline grease you saw was "silvery"? that might indicate it was molybdeneum but dark grey is what my Honda stuff is. You should try to get some Honda or Suzuki or Yamaha or kawasaki or BMW stuff- they all made shaft drives at some point. You want the best suitable here.

...I've used Never-seize at various lubrication points too. Mine is a graphite type- grey- graphite is indeed a lubricant and doesn't seem to react between varying metals that I've noticed anyways.