GS1000 manual chain tensioner installation

[Guest]

Hey all-

So the cam chain tensioner gasket on my GS1000 is leaking oil. This engine is equipped with an APE manual cam chain tensioner. What is the best way to remove the manual tensioner, install the new gasket, and then re-install the tensioner?

Thanks!

[Big T]

Pull the carbs and there's lots of room to work

I'd check with Jay at APE on tensioning after installation

[bwringer]

With automatic or manual tensioners, the leak is more likely to be the o-ring and/or seal around the shaft and not the base gasket.

[Guest]

Before removing the manual tensioner, should I remove the valve cover and secure the cam sprockets to the cam chain with zip ties to prevent the cam chain from slipping on the cam sprockets and potentially messing up the timing? I had to do something similar on my GSXR engine when installing the auto cam tensioner, but not sure if this applies to the GS as well.

Example of the above from the GSXR service manual:

[bwringer]

Just place the engine at TDC and you should be fine.

At least, that's how I've always done it, and I've removed, rebuilt, and replaced a whole bunch of automatic GS tensioners. I can't see any reason the manual one would be much different.

[Guest]

Just place the engine at TDC and you should be fine.

At least, that's how I've always done it, and I've removed, rebuilt, and replaced a whole bunch of automatic GS tensioners. I can't see any reason the manual one would be much different.

That makes sense. Thanks.

[GregT]

With automatic or manual tensioners, the leak is more likely to be the o-ring and/or seal around the shaft and not the base gasket.

Actually, with a manual tensioner, it's most unlikely that it will leak down the shaft. The threaded shaft forms a labyrinth oil seal - and there should be a copper washer under the locknut.Manual tensioners have a slightly harder life than the OE. The OE version has a small amount of shock absorbing movement. A manual one doesn't. It's locked solid.This means that sometimes they move around on the mounting screws and the gasket goes west.Using cable ties to lock the camchain is a good idea where there are holes in the camchain sprockets - sadly, our GS's don't have the holes.....The roller chains don't seem to jump as readily as the Morse type on the late GSXR's.

[TeamDar]

Actually, with a manual tensioner, it's most unlikely that it will leak down the shaft. The threaded shaft forms a labyrinth oil seal - and there should be a copper washer under the locknut.Manual tensioners have a slightly harder life than the OE. The OE version has a small amount of shock absorbing movement. A manual one doesn't. It's locked solid.This means that sometimes they move around on the mounting screws and the gasket goes west.Using cable ties to lock the camchain is a good idea where there are holes in the camchain sprockets - sadly, our GS's don't have the holes.....The roller chains don't seem to jump as readily as the Morse type on the late GSXR's.

There is an o ring under the lock nut.

[Guest]

Thanks for the responses.

I forgot to mention that this engine also has installed degreed-in adjustable cam sprockets with holes. Can I use the factory timing marks to find TDC for manual tensioner re-installation (close enough?) or do I need to calculate it with a degree wheel etc?

[bwringer]

Yes, somewhere close-ish to TDC using the timing marks under the ignition cover will be fine. The adjustments made by degreeing the cams are pretty small and won't really make a difference.

Honestly, lots of folks have removed and replaced cam chain tensioners without paying the slightest attention to where the engine happened to come to rest.


All that said, listen carefully for a "ka-sproing" sort of noise as you remove and replace the tensioner. If that happens, then the chain skipped on one of the sprockets and you'll need to remove the valve cover and re-time it. This really shouldn't happen; the guides in the engine and valve cover control things pretty well.

It also seems to me you'd want to back the tensioner off a little before reinstallation, then re-set the final tension after it's bolted in.

The instructions from APE are sorta vague-ish...

http://www.aperaceparts.com/tech/tensioners.html