Has anyone "Ceramic" coated their GS engine?

[terry]

You could powder coat your crank-cases (like Harley do) and possibly your cylinders, but not your head, as the heat generated is hotter than that used to melt the plastic powder during the coating process, so when your engine attains normal operating temp, your powder coating will either start to burn, or will become very unattractive "fly paper".

If you decide to paint your engine, I'd recommend "etch priming" before putting the paint on, or else it'll all come off again. It's not difficult to do, and it makes the paint stick.

I told this to one guy awhile ago and his reply was "well it took 20 years to fall off last time" but he didn't understand that because Suzuki didn't etch prime anything (probably would have added a whole 5 bucks to the price of the new bike) it actually started to fall off right away, and more and more came off every time he washed it, so it really started looking bad after only a few months. :twisted:

[bybowtie]

its kinda like a convection process as the out sides stay cool and the insides are warm the cooler air forces the inside exhaust air out of the exhaust...Itwas explained to me as being some sort of thermo-dynamics...Now I dont think Id go so fars as to do my engine block but for exhaust its a great Idea

[Anonymous]

Ok...if ceramic coating one's whole engine isn't a good idea...what is? I want to make my engine look new...so I know that glass-beading it is the best option. But what about afterward? It has to be coated with something. The factory "clear" coat obviously did NOT stand the test of time.

So how does one keep the engine looking new for many years to come (with obviously doing the occasional power-wash)? I've heard that powdercoating is a great option. Especially if the paint used is made for handling high temps.

Rudi
1980 gs1100e

[Anonymous]

Rudi - Is the motor in question in pieces or still together when you plan on doing the cleaning and/or painting? Exactly what state will it be in?

If you plan on doing this kind of cleanup and detailing I would reccoment that you go all the way to splitting the cases and installing new seals, gaskets, and O-rings. That way the motor will look good for a long time - no oil leaks. Then again, I hate to do any job 1/2 way.

[Anonymous]

Rudi - Is the motor in question in pieces or still together when you plan on doing the cleaning and/or painting? Exactly what state will it be in?

If you plan on doing this kind of cleanup and detailing I would reccoment that you go all the way to splitting the cases and installing new seals, gaskets, and O-rings. That way the motor will look good for a long time - no oil leaks. Then again, I hate to do any job 1/2 way.

Swanny,

The engine has not been taken apart, yet. But I do plan on having everything you mentioned replaced. Not only do I want my engine to look new, I want it to run like new too!

Rudi
1980 GS1100e

[Anonymous]

That was fast - cool!

Good idea to take it down to nuts and bolts. I ahve some pics of my cases in the 80 GS1100E Mods thread. Just got them back together and waiting on some more parts. If you need any advise or hints let me know. Hopefully I can help a bit.

As far as cleaning, you can get them spotless with kerosine, elbow grease, some carb cleaner, power washing, and soap and water. I don't think it's necessary to bead blast. I didn't, but that doesn't mean it doesn't work either. The only reason I didn't go that route was that after the blasting I'd probable spend as much time cleaning up the blast material as I would cleaning without it.

The top half of the cases is painted, the bottom is aluminum finish - at least on my '80. Blasting will remove all the finish, cleaning with kerosine won't.

Here's a pic of the cases so you don't have to go to the other thread and look for them.

http://groups.msn.com/SuzukiGSGarage/yoshimurags1000article.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=1373

http://groups.msn.com/SuzukiGSGarage/yoshimurags1000article.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=1374

Since I'm not going to repaint, I don't have any personal experience to share with you. I would however look at powder coating very seriously. Check this link out

http://my.execpc.com/~davewrit/Powder.html

If you read it carefully, notice that he recommends that you leave the surface preparation up to the power coater. You may be waisting your time (and money) by bead blasting and then sending to the shop that's going to do the coating.

Hope this helps.

[Anonymous]

Swanny,

Actually, Airborn Coatings Co. plans on glass-beading my engine before they powder-coat. They will have to make sure all the glass is out before painting. But I'll shoot some compressed air throughout the engine when I get it back...just to make sure.

Nothing gets your engine back to looking like new..like glass-beading. This will take away all discoloration and nicks. Keep in mind, they have been doing this for years..and NASCAR driving teams trust them with their engines and body work.

Thank you for all the info...it will definitely prove useful. Thanks Swanny!

Rudi :-)
1980 GS1100E

[kevan]

So, is the consensus that powder coating, let?s say a cylinder block, is okay? There is not a problem with heat transfer? I was considering having the cylinder block anodized.

Kevan

[Anonymous]

black coated engine

A 1983 GS450LD that I bought a few weeks ago has an engine that is coated black, and has peeled around the oil filler cap. Does anyone know if Suzuki sold bikes with black coated engines? I'm wondering if someone might have had this painted at some time in the past, although to me it looks like it was done at factory.

I'd like to either remove all the black coating, or apply similar paint to the area that has peeled.

[Anonymous]

Re: black coated engine

A 1983 GS450LD that I bought a few weeks ago has an engine that is coated black, and has peeled around the oil filler cap. Does anyone know if Suzuki sold bikes with black coated engines? I'm wondering if someone might have had this painted at some time in the past, although to me it looks like it was done at factory.

I'd like to either remove all the black coating, or apply similar paint to the area that has peeled.

That's probably factory paint. Suzuki had several models in 83 (and later years) with black engines.

[Anonymous]

So, is the consensus that powder coating, let?s say a cylinder block, is okay? There is not a problem with heat transfer? I was considering having the cylinder block anodized.

Kevan

*** I powdercoated my cases and valve cover ( GS 1150 ) having my engine in nuts and bolts 3 years ago, and it holds great, is easy to clean and I didnt have any problems with heat transfer. With cylinder block and head an original finish ( black ) hold up little better, than on cases - so I left it alone.
I just wonder if original black finish holds on cylinder block and head until now, and is inferior to powdercoating in every aspect, why powdercoating shouldnt hold ?
Did my frame and a lot of small elements too, and I`m very happy I powdercoated it.

Adam M.

[Anonymous]

I realize that that ceramic coating has already been shunned, but I have a question. I recently painted my bike and I am in the process of rebuilding. For the tank I used a ceramic ENGINE paint from Wal-Mart. Is the reason that big V8s and such can be ceramic coated because they are liquid cooled and therfore dissipation is not an issue?

[Anonymous]

I think there are a couple of choices here. You could have the engine covers chrome plated and that would definitely brighten them up, or you could powder coat them black which would actually dissipate the heat faster and still look very cool.

On your car engine question, yes I believe since the automobile engine is cooled with a radiator pumping liquid throughout it, Ceramic coating it will not affect heat dissipation. Ceramic coatings are designed for the express purpose of staying good looking on high heat surfaces.

[Dink]

the idea of ceramic coatings in a car type situation is to keep heat in and therefore lower underhood temperatures, which helps a little to create more power.
Dink

[Anonymous]

Just a quik note about coating your block. if you chose to coat your block with ceramic drop www.HPC.com a note they are based in the US and have been the leaders in the industry for over 20 yrs, they have been coating race engines in and out for some of the top racers in the world.

if you chose not to go this route, consider to base coat your block with Duponts Centari acrylic enamal in your choice of color or do a high temp engine color and clear coat it with Duponts Chroma base Clear coat. I have done this on my engine as well dirt bike motors all air cooled with no problems to this date. I have done this for over 20 years myself as I am a auto painter by trade this is all we had available at that time, so I have stayed with it. good luck ! Archie