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Removing engine guards on my 750C

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    Removing engine guards on my 750C

    Have a set of engine guards on my 78 GS750 that I want to remove. The original owner had these put on, and while they look new, I do not like the way they look.

    These gurads mount through the stock engine mounts. Is there a logical way in removing these so that I do not disturb how the engine is mounted in the chassis?


    #2
    A little hard to tell about the lower mount but the upper mount shows you can just remove the screws, take off the guard, and stick the screws right back in.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

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      #3
      Those look a lot nicer than cracked cases and bent crankshafts.
      Want to sell them to me?
      http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

      Life is too short to ride an L.

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        #4
        Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
        Those look a lot nicer than cracked cases and bent crankshafts.
        Want to sell them to me?


        Yeah, I keep telling myself that as well.....If they come off I will be keeping them, sorry. But now you have that little voice in my head really yelling.

        And the lower mount runs a screw through the guard, engine mount and torque plate.

        The more I work on this bike the more I kick myself for not getting one years ago,

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          #5
          Sharp bike,engine and exhaust look like you spent some time detailing,well done.
          http://i632.photobucket.com/albums/u...00080021-1.jpg
          1978 GS1000C
          1979 GS1000E
          1980 GS1000E
          2004 Roadstar

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            #6
            You will need to get some shorter 10mm (diameter) X 1.25 (thread pitch) bolts for the lower mounting points -- otherwise, there's a chance you'll end up punching through the engine case with the bolt (yes, it's happened before). Make sure you get a good look under there and understand what goes where -- the nuts are actually these weird pear-shaped items, and threading them back on is a bear. Also, the left and right sides use different length bolts.

            The top mount on these bars is usually a piece of 10mm all-thread, so you can normally just tighten that up a bit further. However, the OEM mount is a long bolt, which looks better.

            Personally, I'd leave 'em on. They look great and may very well save your bacon someday.
            1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
            2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
            2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
            Eat more venison.

            Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

            Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

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              #7
              Thanks fellas, decided to just keep them on. That is some good info bwringer.

              Bought my bike in great condition and will post up some new picks after I get new shims in the next few days. All but one valve was tight. Sheesh.

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                #8
                Yep, leave them on...Alot cheaper to replace them if you drop it> touch wood.

                Ive a set on mine, a bit different though, handy to have them.

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                  #9
                  Every bike I've had the first thing I bought for it is the crank case protectors, like everyone else says, it's a lot cheaper to replace the case protectors than it is to repair a cracked case.

                  My new '82 GS1100EZ bought October 2008.


                  My first '82 GS1100EZ bought new in 1982.
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                  "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well armed lamb contesting the vote." Benjamin Franklin, 1759

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                    #10
                    I would also recommend engine guards, but depending upon your cornering would watch out about getting to large of a save especially on the left hand side where the stator cover really sticks out.

                    I cut mine down and while it weakened the saver some, it wil just support the bike weight and dramatically improved my lean angle. If you do down with a lot of weight on a case saver, it will lift the front tire and you will low side.

                    I trimmed the bottom tube with a bar end weight. High way pegs were also welded on and positioned so the bar end weight comes in contact with the ground even when pegs are out.

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