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Drying time - Pinstripe to final clearcoat

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    #31
    Thanks, yeah it looks decent. I think if I polish anything out it will mostly be the tank. Either that or I may hit it with another can and try to go a bit heavier this time...
    1980 GS1000G - Sold
    1978 GS1000E - Finished!
    1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
    1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
    2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
    1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
    2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar.....

    www.parasiticsanalytics.com

    TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

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      #32
      Originally posted by salty_monk View Post
      Thanks, yeah it looks decent. I think if I polish anything out it will mostly be the tank. Either that or I may hit it with another can and try to go a bit heavier this time...
      I polished the tank and tail cowl. The tank is what people will notice and the cowl isn't a lot more work after you've already done the tank. I couldn't be bothered to put much effort into the fender.
      1979 CBX, AW440 Maico, GS1150EF

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        #33
        A problem that I encountered recently with clear coats. I painted my CBX with base coat and then clear and wet sanded to remove orange peel, it turned out very well.

        I did the same with GS when I came to the wet sand stage I wasn't able to remove the orange peel plus I added a scratches to the surface that I couldn't remove. I redid the color and clear coat twice more with the same results WTH! is happening here.

        I've did some revisions to the tail cowl that required sanding, priming, painting and clear coat. All good except that horrible orange peel is present. I was resigned to leaving it as is ugly as it was rather than wet sanding.

        Then thinking back to why it worked well on the CBX and not on the GS I went over every step and what I may have done differently.

        The only difference is the clear coat!!!! The clear coat I'm using now is Spray Max with no hardener, it needs at least two weeks of drying before wet sanding. Previously I used Eastwood with an activator inside the can, it hardens super hard in a couple days.

        I used Eastwood on the CBX tank because it resists gasoline spills, since my tank is polished steel on the GS I didn't require the more expensive Eastwood clear, cutting corners and saving money I went with Spray Max.

        I thought I'd pass all the info in case someone else runs into similar problems.
        1979 CBX, AW440 Maico, GS1150EF

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          #34
          That's not the 2K spraymax then... that has a catalyser. You have to press in the red button on the bottom of the can to activate it
          1980 GS1000G - Sold
          1978 GS1000E - Finished!
          1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
          1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
          2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
          1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
          2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar.....

          www.parasiticsanalytics.com

          TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

          Comment


            #35
            Flickr says that is Adult Content and I have to sign in......
            sigpic
            09 Kaw C14 Rocket powered Barcalounger
            1983 GS1100e
            82\83 1100e Frankenbike
            1980 GS1260
            Previous 65 Suzuki 80 Scrambler, 76 KZ900, 02 GSF1200S, 81 GS1100e, 80 GS850G

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              #36
              Originally posted by salty_monk View Post
              That's not the 2K spraymax then... that has a catalyser. You have to press in the red button on the bottom of the can to activate it
              correct, I went cheap on the non critical parts that wouldn't come into contact with gas. I'm going to wait two weeks until the cheap stuff hardens and I'll try a wet sand again. If it doesn't work I'll go back to the Eastwood product or maybe the 2k sparymax.
              1979 CBX, AW440 Maico, GS1150EF

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                #37
                rather than wetsanding to polish, as a final- maybe try Polishing Compound...two grades: first is pink, second is white. I use the turtle wax stuff and it works well for me on urethanes and laquers...not sure about "spray max" but it's worth a try if you can't get a real shine with wetsanding...the "pink" compound (likely a very fine pumice" will dull the finish but smooth any scratches- the white will bring it back to a shine. It's the definitive "hand-rubbed" surface i guess and I do it by hand.

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