Reinstalled carbs and gas doesn't flow

[cadmonkey17]

Please help!
I have a 1980 GS850GL that I recently rebuilt (mainly the engine). During this rebuild, the carbs sat on the shelf (uncovered, fully assembled) in my garage for almost two years. Prior to this, about three years ago, the carbs were rebuilt and the bike wasn't ridden much due to the engine.
The issue I'm having is that the gas isn't making it thru the carbs to the engine. I have checked the tank and the gas flows thru. I removed the carbs from the engine and the gas poured out the back thru the hoses. I know gas is getting to the carbs but I don't know why it isn't being pumped thru to the engine.
I have used some "Carb Start" sprayed into the airbox and the engine starts and runs until the "Carb-Start" is gone (about 3-5 seconds). And it sounds GOOD!!!!
Does it sound like I need to rebuild the carbs again? Or can I just spray thru some carb cleaner (or other carb de-gunker)?

[BassCliff]

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. cadmonkey17,

The recommended procedure is to obtain a complete new set of O-rings for your carbs at http://cycleorings.com. The go through The Carb Cleanup Series to properly service your carbs. After disassembly, you should soak each carb body for up to 24 hours (recommended) in Berryman's Carb Dip, or similar. Then reassemble.

Now, moving on....

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Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Dave8338]

Have you primed the bowls yet?

[cadmonkey17]

Ok, I bought some Berryman's Carb Dip. I separated the carbs from each other (but I didn't disassemble each carb) and soaked them individually for about 30 minutes. After that I rinsed them off in a bucket of gasoline to get the dip out of them. After re-grouping the carbs into their foursome, I reinstalled them onto the bike. After a little flooding (by twisting the throttle) the engine ACTUALLY STARTED! It's only a small miracle though. It will only stay running as long as I have the choke pulled. At least for the few minutes I left it on. Also, if I twist the throttle too fast (give it too much gas) it dies. I have to slowly twist the throttle and then when I get to about 3000 rpm it starts to die.
Should I just go ahead and tear apart each carb and clean out each tiny piece? Or is there something else to try first? I only want to rebuild as a last option.
Thanks for all the help!

[Steve]

Ok, I bought some Berryman's Carb Dip. I separated the carbs from each other (but I didn't disassemble each carb) and soaked them individually for about 30 minutes.

All you can do now is PRAY that you did not destroy the rubber bits inside the carbs, ESPECIALLY THE DIAPHRAGMS.

New diaphragms are over $100 each, and you will need one for each carb.

PLEASE, PEOPLE, THERE ARE NO SHORTCUTS. DO IT RIGHT, OR DON'T BOTHER DOING IT AT ALL.

.

[Steve]

OK, I have turned off "rant mode" and will respond to the rest of your questions:

After a little flooding (by twisting the throttle) the engine ACTUALLY STARTED!

I have no idea how you can "flood" the engine by twisting the throttle, as there is NO acellerator pump in the carbs.

It will only stay running as long as I have the choke pulled. At least for the few minutes I left it on.

This is quite normal on a cold engine, but it also points out that the INSIDE of the carbs need to be cleaned, too.

Also, if I twist the throttle too fast (give it too much gas) it dies. I have to slowly twist the throttle and then when I get to about 3000 rpm it starts to die.

Do you have the airbox installed? If not, this is perfectly normal, except that it's usually hard to get it to 3000.

Should I just go ahead and tear apart each carb and clean out each tiny piece? Or is there something else to try first? I only want to rebuild as a last option.

Moot question. You have already demonstrated that the carbs are not working correctly. The only way to fix that is with a PROPER dip session. Yes, that will involve dismantling each carb into all its bits, but that is the ONLY way you will get it running correctly.

.

[Guest]

Welcome to the board

[Nessism]

I don't think that modern carb dip stuff is as strong as the old formulas, so hopefull the carbs will be okay. Defintely time to do a full tear down and soak for at least 8 hours each.

One other comment relates to the 1980 petcock (the lever less type), you need one good pulse of vacuum to engage the prime function. The prime will stop when you turn the little slot but it won't start flowing right away without vacuum.