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Fuel Bowl Gaskets with Bonus Dynojet Question!

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    #1

    Fuel Bowl Gaskets with Bonus Dynojet Question!

    Anyone have issues with the bowl gaskets provided by Z1? They've got a set of four that look be slightly universal for 11 bucks or so, and I need to get a Dynojet kit anyways, which they stock. Would be nice to get them shipped together. Or should I just stick with my modus operandi and go ahead and order the OEM pieces?

    While I'm thinking about the Dynojet kit, I see I have to take apart the slide assembly to drill the slide lift holes. Where do I get a pair of snap ring pliers long enough to get these apart? Mine aren't going to cut it. The PDF for the instructions (from Dynojet's website) is really poorly illustrated. Fig A (the one shows the exploded slide and where the slide lift holes are) is pretty much impossible to read. Very, very faint. Anyone have a better picture, or better yet, a picture of their own slides?

    I'm a-tingle with anticipation at the thought of having my carbs properly set-up, and by the idea of doing it myself.
    Tags: None
    #2
    I have the bowl gaskets from Z1 on my 750 carbs. no problems with the fit, and no leaks so far.... go ahead and get em from Z1 if you need em.

    Comment

      #3
      Originally posted by Turtleface View Post
      Anyone have issues with the bowl gaskets provided by Z1? They've got a set of four that look be slightly universal for 11 bucks or so, and I need to get a Dynojet kit anyways, which they stock. Would be nice to get them shipped together. Or should I just stick with my modus operandi and go ahead and order the OEM pieces?

      While I'm thinking about the Dynojet kit, I see I have to take apart the slide assembly to drill the slide lift holes. Where do I get a pair of snap ring pliers long enough to get these apart? Mine aren't going to cut it. The PDF for the instructions (from Dynojet's website) is really poorly illustrated. Fig A (the one shows the exploded slide and where the slide lift holes are) is pretty much impossible to read. Very, very faint. Anyone have a better picture, or better yet, a picture of their own slides?

      I'm a-tingle with anticipation at the thought of having my carbs properly set-up, and by the idea of doing it myself.
      Are you doing the 3133 Kit?

      Jet Kit for 1980-1986 Suzuki GS1100
      http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/3133.pdf
      Dynojet Jet Kits Whether you run a standard motorcycle, or a tuned sportbike, Dynojet Carburetor Jet Kits can provide you with a simple and affordable solution to all your carburetion problems. Dynojet Jet Kits increase power and smoothness throughout the entire rev range, while maintaining optimum fuel economy. Each Dynojet Jet Kit includes comprehensive instructions which show step-by-step installation and testing procedures to ensure a perfect setup every time. This is backed by free telephone and Internet support to Dynojet customers. Kit installation and Dynamometer services are available in many parts of the world. Please see the Dynamometer Center Search Page to locate your nearest dyno shop. Read Full Description Jet Kit Types Needle & Needle Jet Caps Many newer bikes have very flat power and fuel delivery curves when used with the stock exhaust and air-box. When aftermarket pipes are used, the power curve is usually not flat. You find the need to lean out for low speed and richen up for top end; or leaner on the top end and richer at the low speed. In order to achieve full function and driveability, Dynojet develops shrouds or cap style nozzles for adjusting the upper or lower top end. They also have an effect similar to fuel injection by breaking up the fuel as it enters the air stream. Fuel Needle The design of the needle is where Dynojet spends most of its R&D time. The needle is designed to give the correct amount of fuel throughout the mid-range and is also designed to allow adjustment from groove 1 to groove 6 with little or no effect below 3000 R.P.M.; then with the correct end dimensions, the needle will have little effect on the main jet regardless of needle position. This isolates all circuits from each other and ensures easy set-up of the midrange and driveability. Main Air Jet This jet allows air into the emulsion tube to mix with fuel being drawn up from the float bowl. It controls the amount of fuel which can be pulled from the float bowl into the venturi. The larger the size of the main air jet, the more air you get and less fuel. The smaller the main air jet, the more fuel you get and less air. Dynojet alters this only to achieve the flattest possible fuel delivery curve. Pilot Circuit This controls 100% of the engine idle and 25% of the transition onto the needle. Dynojet has found that the engine will idle with the standard pilot jet, with or without the air-box and with the slides and needles removed from the carburetors; therefore we never change the pilot jet. Doing so is proof that you are not using the other circuits correctly. Idle and off idle is controlled by the mixture screws and the float level which have the most positive effect below 4000 R.P.M. On some models the pilot air jet is changed to provide optimum fuel economy. Correct balancing of the carburetors also ensures a smooth idle. Main Jet We develop our main jets to correctly serve two functions; static load and dynamic load. The static load is the fuel received through the main jet in the upper gears, where the tachometer is moving very slow. The dynamic fueling portion of the main jet is the amount of fuel received from the jet in the mid-range potion of the power. For example, you have a GSXR1100 G,H with #130 main jets. You then install #125 mains. After running the bike you notice the top end has improved but the mid-range doesn't pull as well. You then install #135 mains and you notice the mid-range is great but the top end is slower. This is a common compromise when using stock main jets and needles. If you install Dy 93 Dealers Orders Dealer Orders "Dealer Orders Dynojet Research Inc. dealers much call in to place an order. Please call us at: 1-800-992-4993 (Toll Free)/Suzuki/GS1100/1986

      Comment

        #4
        Originally posted by posplayr View Post
        Are you doing the 3133 Kit?

        http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/3133.pdf
        Yep, was looking at that PDF at home, couldn't make out Fig. A. I'll give your link a shot when I get off work. Kit's ordered, maybe it'll be one with printed instructions.

        Comment

          #5
          Aftermarket float bowl gaskets should be fine... just compare them to the old ones & verify the vent hole is knocked out from the gasket (might be pre-punched and still there).

          http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=143270


          I've installed that Stage 3 jet kit on my '81 1100E, running pods & 4-1 exhaust. Take care when you drill the slides, they're thicker than they look & you can get some drill wander if you're not careful.
          '85 GS550L - SOLD
          '85 GS550E - SOLD
          '82 GS650GL - SOLD
          '81 GS750L - SOLD
          '82 GS850GL - trusty steed
          '80 GS1100L - son's project bike
          '82 GS1100G - SOLD
          '81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)

          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by Turtleface View Post
            Yep, was looking at that PDF at home, couldn't make out Fig. A. I'll give your link a shot when I get off work. Kit's ordered, maybe it'll be one with printed instructions.
            I see you have 4:1, but the pods make the biggest difference. Chef starts out with the 137.5's (dont remember which notch now) for 4:1 with pods. Hopefull he will be around for a reco.

            The stage 1's are only 114 but that is driven largely by the stock airbox and richer DJ needles

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by Turtleface View Post
              Where do I get a pair of snap ring pliers long enough to get these apart?
              Get a pair of cheap needle nosed pliers & simply grind the ends on a bench wheel to fit the snap ring holes.

              I have a couple pair of HF cheapo pliers & that's all I've ever used to remove any & all of the snap rings on these old girls...
              '85 GS550L - SOLD
              '85 GS550E - SOLD
              '82 GS650GL - SOLD
              '81 GS750L - SOLD
              '82 GS850GL - trusty steed
              '80 GS1100L - son's project bike
              '82 GS1100G - SOLD
              '81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)

              Comment

                #8
                I have th HF kit, they are cheap stuff but they work. Have it out now working on the GPz.

                Comment

                  #9
                  Originally posted by koolaid_kid View Post
                  I have th HF kit, they are cheap stuff but they work. Have it out now working on the GPz.
                  I bought that el-cheapo snap ring plier set from HF & couldn't make it work worth a darn... I brought it back.

                  I have much better luck with needle nose pliers that I've ground the "tips-to-fit."
                  '85 GS550L - SOLD
                  '85 GS550E - SOLD
                  '82 GS650GL - SOLD
                  '81 GS750L - SOLD
                  '82 GS850GL - trusty steed
                  '80 GS1100L - son's project bike
                  '82 GS1100G - SOLD
                  '81 GS1100E - Big Red (daily rider)

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Awesome, lots of good info. Planning on leaving the airbox on right now, it's in perfect shape, and I just installed brand new rubber in the entire air signal chain. Maybe I'll try pods at a later date. Saw the thread regarding vent holes, so I'll be sure to match them up. Now I just have to measure all these JIS screws so I can replace the whole lot with shiny stainless allen head bolts.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      As far as snap ring pliers go, I bought a set from MikesXS (Part# 35-000)
                      http://www.mikesxs.net/products-7.html?category_id=7.1 (almost at the bottom).

                      These are cheap (10$) and have worked great for me doing brake master cylinders, forks, carbs, ect.

                      Z1 also stocks a similar pair (apparently from motion pro)
                      Z1 Enterprises - Specializing in Vintage Japanese Motorcycle Parts, Including New Old Stock & Aftermarket Parts
                      http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=2868
                      Z1 Enterprises specializes in quality Motorcycle parts for Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Yamaha Classic Japanese motorcycles from the 1970's and 1980's.

                      Comment

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