Neew suggestions for removing screws from carbs?

[wirelessguy]

Argh, I just can't catch a break.

I've been making some progress on prying the carbs apart and finally Dremeled the first set of screw enough to drill them out of the first two carbs.

I intended to replace with hex cap screws but when I tried to put them in they were too small. :-( I trusted the ebay auction which listed the GS1100 as a model they fit.

**So be forewarned, the GS1100EZ looks like it uses M5 (5mm) cap screws ans not 4mm ones.**

No word yet on whether the vendor has 5mm screws or will even consider a swap/refund, so I may have a full set (32pcs) avail. shortly.

While I don't mind wrenching my own bike this whole process has met with challenges every step of the way. As this point, I'm just happy that I've given this all winter and didn't tell myself this was a weekend or two job.

[Nessism]

Did you get an impact driver like suggested? Did you try vice grips on the screw heads before resorting to drilling out the screws? What exactly is the problem? Describe in detail and maybe we can help.

[sparki]

screws he bought were 4mm when he needed 5mm.. impact driver everytime works a treat. 5 minutes to remove.

[850 Combat]

Use a punch with a flat head (like a nail punch), or drift, place it against the side of the head of the screw and give it a good swipe with a hammer which knocks the screw head sideways slightly (not noticeable to the naked eye). Then just undo the screw as normal. Works every time for me. Did all my carbs screws this way and also the screws that hold the carb boots onto the head. Try it before dismissing it.

I did this with my old 1100G. I hate to resort to it, but when all else fails... It is best to replace the screws after though. I usually notch the side of the screw with a chisel, then break it free with a punch.

My step dad tought me this 40 years ago. He could do a lot without having the money to own proper tools. The only home mechanic I ever knew to rebuild an automatic transmission.

[wirelessguy]

screws he bought were 4mm when he needed 5mm.. impact driver everytime works a treat. 5 minutes to remove.

Correct.

It's not so much the screw removal that has me ticked but the simple fact that nothing seems to go right the first time around. (and when I say nothing I mean nothing).


So quick question for the group. Guy was gracious enough to offer a refund on the 4mm screws but now I need to figure out what exactly would be the correct versions. I know that they are M5 / 5mm and I tested one of the screw on the carb cap can found it to be 14mm long (just the thread, not including head of screw).

Fastenal has two poss part numbers and I'm unsure of the difference?
M5-0.8 x 14mm DIN 912 A2 S/S 18-8 Socket Head Cap Screw (A2 Grade)
SKU: MS2540014A20000

M5 x 14 A-4 Socket Head Cap Screw (A4 grade)
SKU: MS2540014A40000

Any thoughts for me?

Also, anyone know what the other screw dimensions might be for either the screws holding in the bowl bottoms or the two plates (or do I leave those as Philips)?

Thanks.

[Katarat]

If you put stainless screws in be sure and use anti-sieze with them. I use a little dab of it on the regular screws when I reassymble the carbs anyway. Impact driver works best for me removing them

[bwringer]

Correct.


Fastenal has two poss part numbers and I'm unsure of the difference?
M5-0.8 x 14mm DIN 912 A2 S/S 18-8 Socket Head Cap Screw (A2 Grade)
SKU: MS2540014A20000

M5 x 14 A-4 Socket Head Cap Screw (A4 grade)
SKU: MS2540014A40000

Any thoughts for me?

Whichever grade of stainless is cheaper -- it'll be fine.

The bowls use M5X16 screws. (To be honest, I normally just use M5X16 for both the tops and the bottoms. I think there's one screw on the top where it hits something, so you just need to add a washer.)

Not sure about the M6 screws for the rails, but there aren't as many of these -- you could get them at your friendly local real hardware store and not be out too horribly much money.

Ace and Do it Best hardware stores usually have a good selection of metric stainless allen head goodies, but it gets spendy if you need more than a few.

I detest Fastenal's perpetually out-of-stock storefronts, but maybe that's just me. I've gotten tons of metric goodies from McMaster-Carr http://mcmaster.com and Bolt Depot http://boltdepot.com

[TooManyToys]

This is getting nuts.......... when you need screws.

Attached is what I have in my inventory for going through Suzuki carbs.

If you want any of these let me know by PM. I'll sell them to you at my cost + shipping (+ PayPal fees if we can't avoid that).

For covers and bowls I have 5mmx12mm & 5mmx16mm in both standard socket hex and button head. I use the lock washers just like Mukuni under the bowl 16mm bolts. Note that the 5mmx16mm standard socket hex are knurled on the sides while the 12mm are polished smooth. You can sand and polish the knurls off (I do but that's time and $$ extra).

For the tie bars I only use button head 6mmx12mm. This is an example of the screws used on '82 carbs painted black.

[Geo]

Wow....The carbs.... a work of art

[1_v8_merc]

My carb bolt-heads were completely stripped from the previous owner.



So I ended up taking a 6" socket extension, and a small hammer.
I placed the male-end of the Extension on the head of the bolt, and gave it a few good firm hits....not real hard, but firm.

This re-shapes the heads, so you can fit a phillips screw-driver back in there again. Then I took my good craftsman screwdriver, stuck it in, and hit THAT with a hammer a couple times, to REALLY drive the bit down in there.
(the bolts are zinc/steel, so they strip easily, but you can also re-shape them easily too!)

Then, with the carb-rack locked between some boards, on the floor, I lean over-top of everything, get a good grip on my screw-driver and just lock my hands,arms and torso, and just put ALL my upper-weight down on the screwdriver, and then TURN my body.

Popped loose every time.

Worked like a charm, and considering every bolt was stripped from the previous owner, I got all of em loose like this.

Plus I used a heat-lamp, and Liquid Wrench.

Liquid Wrench is a MUST HAVE, haha.

-------------

Oh yeah, I got ALL of my replacement screws from Lowes.

I went with straight steel bolts this time.
The top ones are like 7mm socket-heads, because I prefer socket wrenches! Lol
The bottom ones are Phillips heads, but have a much Larger head on them, so it's much easier to grip.

When you tighten the new bolts, only do it SNUG...DO NOT GO NUTS WITH TIGHTENING THEM!
Close them until it gets tight-ish, then maybe 1/4 turn more, thats it!

Trust me, it feels like there's plenty of turn left sometimes, but AVOID making this mistake and over-tightening them.
It really takes very little to get em just snug enough.

[brianedonovan]

Thanks! Worked like a charm.
Got to hear the sweet sound of the screws cracking loose!

Brian

[gs1000emt]

Got my intake boot ss screws and orings from robert barr. Very prompt service. I am very pleased. Many other folks on here have said the same also.