New to GS - 1st stupid question

[Wingsconsin]

Newbie question #1 --And there will be many more

GS650L 1983 -

HOW do I remove the carbs from the bike...?

I have the air box side off...but the air box is still in the bike (it can't come out..? right? )

The engine side is loosened.... at the carbs not on the engine...

The throttle is still not disconnected nor the choke cable...

I do not want to force this off..so I am erring on the side of caution...
But what am I missing that these will not come loose...?

Pictures are always helpful if you have any.. am a visual learner..or a you tube video even more better...

But any advice would be appreciated before I break something I did not know about...

Your advice is gratefully accepted...

My direct email is cmunkwitz@gmail.com if you prefer to contact me there...

[Charlie G]

If it's anything like my 650g, it's a very tight fit. It's been awhile so memory fades. It can be done. Disconnect the choke and throttle. I believe I lostened the air box, and moved it back as much as I could, trying to get the carbs out of the air box boots. Every fraction of an inch counts here. The carbs need to be wriggled out of the head intake boots, moving up and down or which ever way the will move and give you some progress. The flexability of the head boots is key. If they are hard as a rock so will the task. Patience and what ever will sooth your nerves is helpful. NO hammers! I wish you well. 1100g's are a piece of cake.

cg

[BassCliff]

Hi,

I documented the procedure on my GS850G. You'll find it on my website. Your bike will be a little different. As Mr. Charlie G suggests, you should slide the airbox back as far a possible, then take the carbs out first. If you loosen or remove the rear inner fender you may be able to gain a little more wiggle room to slide the airbox back out of the way. If your intake boots are hard you should consider replacing them. New rubber makes things a lot easier (new carb boots and new airbox boots). You can also replace the intake boot O-rings as long as you are there. That's a cheap price to ensure your bike runs good for a long time.

For reference:

Air Intake Repair:
(Airbox removal, intake boots and O-ring replacement)


Thank you for your indulgence,


BassCliff

[tom203]

You'll need to slide air filter box back by removing bolts that hold it ( on top and on battery box side)- push aside any wiring that interfers. As mention, every little bit helps- slide the airbox/airfilter assembly back as a unit to pull them from carbs.Then,extract carbs from carb boots on engine side.
You should definitely get new carb boot o-rings while you having so much fun. You also should inspect the carb boots cuz they have likely lost their soft squishyness that makes the reinstall process easier- disturbing them might highlight cracking.

[Steve]

Although we have an '82 650L, which is virtually the same bike, it has pods, so I have no idea what it takes in your case.

I do know that the 850 is the easiest to remove, so the details in BassCliff's procedure will be considerably different, but the principles are the same.

Whatever it takes, it is much easier to get the carbs loose, start sliding them out (probably on the right side), THEN remove the throttle and "choke" cables.

.

[Wingsconsin]

Got it ..!

OMG...
I got them out last night..
It took me a few days to get back to it as I had that pesky thing called "work" ..But they give me money so it's OKAY.

Here's what it took (for me anyway)

Remove the fasteners holding the air filter box -- net gain ? 1/4" ?
Push Air Box BACK all the way -- Net gain ? 1/4" ?
Spray WD40 along seam where boots meet carbs hoping it wold penetrate and ease the grip on the carbs...The boots seem really pliable yet and I will inspect them for cracking..but replacements are yet to be determined (I will err on the side of caution).

Then the fun...

Wiggle - Push Pull grunt swear wiggle push pull grunt cuss...

WHAT in the world..? WHY NOT...?

FOR ME - The trick on MY 1983 GL650 L was to remove the throttle cable retaining bracket from the top of the carbs . It is held in place by the vacuum chamber tops screws...It seem that was preventing any real movement - then I was able to ...

Wiggle - Push Pull grunt swear wiggle push pull grunt cuss...and POP!

Out them came...

Then it was time to wiggle some more..and get them to a place above the boots on both sides and disconnect the choke cable...

Wiggle push pull grunt...

VICTORY !

The carbs are now sitting on the work table waiting for me to do the easy part...clean them...although they look awesome right now...

The more I get into this bike the more I KNOW those are 759 original miles...The air filter never had oil on it (or it is completely dried and gone leaeving no trace of it's existence)...I suspect this bike was never properly set up from coming out of the crate...More maintenance for me to do I guess...

My first inline 4 experience sure is eye opening...I like what I am finding...

PS - I KNOW I will be replacing some fuel line at minimum....and the brake fluid is chocolate brown soup ...

[Steve]

The carbs are now sitting on the work table waiting for me to do the easy part...clean them...although they look awesome right now...

They may look "awesome" right now, but the parts that really matter are on the inside, where you can't see them. Since your carbs are not painted black, I would go ahead and dip them, as recommended, and replace all the o-rings. The cost is somewhat minimal, especially if you already have a set of gauges to sync the carbs on your Wings. A can of "dip" is about $20, o-rings for the carbs and intake boots, along with stainless hardware for the boots is less than $25. If you need a set of gauges, a Carbtune will cost about $100.

The air filter never had oil on it (or it is completely dried and gone leaeving no trace of it's existence).

That might actually be GOOD. I think the stock filter element was paper, and was not meant to be oiled.

I KNOW I will be replacing some fuel line at minimum....and the brake fluid is chocolate brown soup ...

Do yourself a favor, get your fuel line from Suzuki.

Doesn't really matter which vendor you use, but get OEM hose. If you go down to the corner auto parts store, your fuel line selection will be lmited to 1/4" or 5/16" line, and it will be very thick (it has to withstand high-pressure fuel injected systems) and hard to work with, but CHEAP. OEM fuel line is 7mm (1/4" is 6.35mm, 5/16" is 7.94mm). 1/4" line will have to stretch to fit over your fittings, but since it's reinforced for the high pressure applications, it doesn't want to. 5/16" line has to be clamped, and, since it's reinforced ... it doesn't want to. The OEM 7mm line slips over the fittings and seals perfectly with no clamps.

The only aparent "down" side to OEM tubing is the cost. Looking at the fiche for your bike, you will see that it is part number 09352-70103-00B, and retails for $16.25 (G&S sells it for $11.99) Now, you are thinking "Twelve dollars for a foot-long piece of hose???" No, when you get the hose, you will see that it is about SIX feet long, it's actually two meters. Even if this is the only GS you will ever work on, the small extra cost of the PROPER hose is worth it. Since I have so many here of my own, and I work on others, it's a recurring expense, along with shims, oil filters and breather hose.

.

[snicrep5]

even a hos or wire bundle in the way makes a difference between the airbox and the frame. Youll do it enough that it will be routine. It helps to have flexible boots too.

[Wingsconsin]

Good Advice

Air Filter is a foam filter meant to be oiled for dirt catching. The OEM is now in the holder and labeled UNI. It has never been oiled which leads me to think the bike was never properly set up when first placed in service. I will re-double my maintenance plan to be certain to not miss anything.

I have Carb Dip & 4 place carb synch guages.
I have ordered the o-rings and ss fasteners as per advice.

The fuel line is to be determined. I may need other vacuum lines, and hoses as I look over this bike and want to order once.

Tires are in the garage waiting change over.


Getting into the carbs is the first order of business - I will try to remeber to take pictures of what I find...I am hoping it is CLEAN - but fear the mess it may be after 30 years ...But the gas I drained from the tank (about 1 gallon) was still volitile and burned nicely in the firepit in my back yard...

The costs of these "reclamation" projects add up quickly and I am trying to budget the repairs as well as do them correctly...

What about the oil filter...?
Order OEM or is there something I can pick up at Wal*mart ..?

[tom203]

Wingsconsin said....."Getting into the carbs is the first order of business - I will try to remeber to take pictures of what I find...I am hoping it is CLEAN - but fear the mess it may be after 30 years ...But the gas I drained from the tank (about 1 gallon) was still volitile and burned nicely in the firepit in my back yard..."


still volatile just means someone dumped some gas in it recently- most likely the wonderful ethanol stuff. It this sat in carbs for a few months, it has likely worked its magic- i.e. gummed up some tiny little holes. Best to assume the worst and clean them now unless you enjoy removing them again when you discover the bike won't idle and stumbles at low throttle inputs. Since this bike has low mileage, I bet your carb boots are OK, but I'd replace those boot o-rings at head to eliminate any problems- simple enough with carbs off.
Your air filter element is probably a Uni NU-2440- and needs oiling. Oil filters are cheap ( maybe $20 for 3 ), but avoid Fram

[koolaid_kid]

Good quality oil filters are available, including K&N, Wix, Napa, etc. Get filters that include the oring; some do not.

[Wingsconsin]

A link is very helpful ...

Good quality oil filters are available, including K&N, Wix, Napa, etc. Get filters that include the oring; some do not.

Where does one get one ?.
Your assistance is greatly appreciated.

[koolaid_kid]

Any competent on-line dealer would carry them. Did you get the list of vendors from BikeCliff's Mega-welcome? If I order them online, I usually order several at a time and order other parts at the same time to offset the shipping costs.
I usually get mine from Napa Auto Parts; I have ordered both K&N and Napa filters there. I have been told the Napa ones are made by Wix.
For example, according to K&N you need this filter:

[Steve]

even a hos or wire bundle in the way makes a difference between the airbox and the frame. Youll do it enough that it will be routine. It helps to have flexible boots too.

On the other hand, ... if you clean the carbs completely and properly, you may never have to do it again.

It's only those why try to short-cut the process that have to do it again (and again).

Getting into the carbs is the first order of business - I will try to remeber to take pictures of what I find...I am hoping it is CLEAN - but fear the mess it may be after 30 years ...

Pictures are always fun, but carbs can be spotlessly, picture-perfect clean, and still be gummed up inside to the point that they won't run.

On the other hand, they can be grungy enough on the outside that you can't even tell what color they are, but be perfectly clean inside and running beautifully.

.

[Wingsconsin]

Gonna look inside...

On the other hand, ... if you clean the carbs completely and properly, you may never have to do it again.

It's only those why try to short-cut the process that have to do it again (and again).




Pictures are always fun, but carbs can be spotlessly, picture-perfect clean, and still be gummed up inside to the point that they won't run.

On the other hand, they can be grungy enough on the outside that you can't even tell what color they are, but be perfectly clean inside and running beautifully.

.

My plan is to take pictures of what I find on the INSIDE...
The outsides are dusty...but not dirty...
I only hope the insides are not a massive lump of goo...