New to GS - 1st stupid question

[Wingsconsin]

Thanks for the guidance this far...

gsrick - thanks. I watched them and found I was on track.

Todays update is simple. (Sorry - no pictures to share)

I got all the carbs broken down, all the jets out, all the parts organized.
I purchase an Ultrasonic cleaner last week when it was on sale and cleaned all the carb bodies and bowls in a solution of water and simple green. The carb top covers as well. The ultrasonic cleraner did really well on these parts. All the varnish, and gunk is gone inside and out.

My plan is to carb dip all the brass parts that have the real goo on & in them this Saturday and then ultrasonic them as a "rinse". Then reassemble the entire thing. I received my new orings - but will need a quick trip to the hardware store to replace a few screws that ended up with stripped out tops. I may try to switch to allen head screws instead where I can...just easier really ...

[Guest]

gsrick - thanks. I watched them and found I was on track.

Todays update is simple. (Sorry - no pictures to share)

I got all the carbs broken down, all the jets out, all the parts organized.
I purchase an Ultrasonic cleaner last week when it was on sale and cleaned all the carb bodies and bowls in a solution of water and simple green. The carb top covers as well. The ultrasonic cleraner did really well on these parts. All the varnish, and gunk is gone inside and out.

My plan is to carb dip all the brass parts that have the real goo on & in them this Saturday and then ultrasonic them as a "rinse". Then reassemble the entire thing. I received my new orings - but will need a quick trip to the hardware store to replace a few screws that ended up with stripped out tops. I may try to switch to allen head screws instead where I can...just easier really ...

Yes go to the allen heads on both the top cover and fuel bowls. I even put them on the gang rails as well. Get rid of those JIS screws any where you can.

[koolaid_kid]

Yes go to the allen heads on both the top cover and fuel bowls. I even put them on the gang rails as well. Get rid of those JIS screws any where you can.

I do this as well, replace all the JIS phillips screws with allen head stainless steel screws. Including the rails, it just makes it easier overall to do it correctly the first time.
Ace hardware has a good selection IIRC, although I got mine in bulk from McMasterCarr.

[Wingsconsin]

Gettin it done ...

I am ready for the reassembly ...
Do I lube the slides with something ?.
All is clean and shiny ...
New allen screws for everything

[koolaid_kid]

You don't have to lube the slides, but you can if you wish. I usually put a VERY LIGHT coating of 3 in 1 oil on them because I do lots of testing prior to the first lighting of the engine.
They will get washed down with gasoline the first time it runs, anyway.

[Wingsconsin]

stumped...

Okay...I am starting to put things back together...

1-- float height setting?.
2-- idle adjust screw setting , turns out to start ?.

I know I should have this info ...but I cant put my brain on it right now...

[Steve]

1. 22.4 +/- 1.0mm, measured from the gasket seating area of the carb body (with no gasket in place)

2. You talking about the idle SPEED screw or the idle MIXTURE screw? I am going to assume the mixture screw, as the other one will be rather obvious.
Most of us start with them 2 1/2 to 3 full turns out from lightly seated. When the bike is running and warmed up, you will adjust those screws for best idle speed.
They might end up in the 2 to 1 /2 turn range, and they won't necessarily all be the same when you are done.

.

[Wingsconsin]

The idle whatever screw that is initially inaccesible ...we drill off the cap ...that is the one ...

Floats at 22 right now

Going to 3 turns for starters I guess ...

Thanks

[Steve]

Yep, that would be the "idle mixture adjustment screw".

Starting with them three turns out is a little like having a bit of choke applied when you start the bike the first time. It will be running a little rich, but it will run better when rich than lean. If you try starting with the mixture screws too lean, you will have a VERY hard time starting it, and you won't know just what the problem is, so it just makes more sense to start with the rich mixture to eliminate one possibility.

After the bike warms up, you can slowly turn the screws in, listening for highest idle speed. You can also do this while the sync gauges are still connected, that "highest idle speed" will show up as a higher vacuum level on all cylinders.

When you are done tweaking the mixture screws, you may find that they are in the 2 to 2 1/2 turn range, and don't be surprised if they are not all exactly the same.

.

[Wingsconsin]

I Appeciate the help

SO far I have ALL the carbs re-assmebled.
Next will be getting them "ganged" back together correctly.
Then back onto the bike for an attempt to start & fine tune them..
But first I want to change the oil and filter so I know the engine is ready to run.

A few days ago I changed the final drive fluids - the stuff draining out was pretty smelly - and green tinted - but still seemed to have good lubricating properties - NEW OIL INSTALLED.

This process is taking some time as I am going slow and methodically whenever I get some free time from my hectic life. I al really looking forward to riding this beauty one day soon..but will not do so until I know it is right...

Tires are in the garage but not on yet...
Brakes will need a complete cleaning out of all the old brown goo that used to be brake fluid...
Rubber hoses are laying on the work bench waiting for installation.

A few more weeks perhaps...

[londonboards]

Wings - Can we get a pic of your GS650. I think my bike was originally Burgundy Metallic Royal Maroon (looks like rubbish at the moment) and I would quite like to put mine back to original colours.

Greetings

[Wingsconsin]

You asked for it...

Wings - Can we get a pic of your GS650. I think my bike was originally Burgundy Metallic Royal Maroon (looks like rubbish at the moment) and I would quite like to put mine back to original colours.

Greetings

Currently all I have is some pics from the day I picked it up. It had been in a heated storage for nearly 30 years +/- a few days outside riding that 759 miles. I did NOTHING but take this picture - no cleaning, nor washing nor polishing ..but here it is...

Right now the bike is in pieces in the garage - I can take a close up of the tank and get it on here..I actually hit that with a little polish last week...That would show the original color pretty good...If you can wait a few days...

[Guest]

Yep, that would be the "idle mixture adjustment screw".

Starting with them three turns out is a little like having a bit of choke applied when you start the bike the first time. It will be running a little rich, but it will run better when rich than lean. If you try starting with the mixture screws too lean, you will have a VERY hard time starting it, and you won't know just what the problem is, so it just makes more sense to start with the rich mixture to eliminate one possibility.

After the bike warms up, you can slowly turn the screws in, listening for highest idle speed. You can also do this while the sync gauges are still connected, that "highest idle speed" will show up as a higher vacuum level on all cylinders.

When you are done tweaking the mixture screws, you may find that they are in the 2 to 2 1/2 turn range, and don't be surprised if they are not all exactly the same.
.

That is how I set my idle mixture screws, quite by accident too. Had the sync gauge hooked up and started the bike and then began to adjust the mixture screws....got to watching gauges and listening to the motor and observed where the vacuum was on the gauge. Adjustment come out pretty dang good.

[Steve]

Yeah, I started noticing that about a year ago. I always do the mixture adjust after a carb sync, so the gauges are still hooked up.

It only stands to reason: if you get the engine to run faster without changing the throttle setting, vacuum will be higher.

The engine will run fastest (at idle) when the mixture is the best, so best mixture = highest vacuum.

I also follow a rule from tuning 2-strokes called "lean, best idle". If there is a broad range where vacuum does not change,
I go as lean as possible before it drops, then back it up to the leanest possible setting where the vacuum is high.

.

[Wingsconsin]

New frustration -- grrrr

I got the carbs all together tonight..
Looking good man...This bike will be running soon...



Let's start fixing to hook them up....

Checking on the airbox ...Looks fine...All the gaskets are now in place...air boots look good...clamps...1.., 2...,3...uh oh...
Missing a clamp.....



ANYONE got an extra they could USPostal to me...?

I would gladly owe you a beer or root beer or ice cream...