VM26SS rack & the dreaded leaky tee

[Guest]

Okay...so I've rebuilt my rack of VM26SS carbs as a whole (rack intact; unseparated), only to find that the OEM fuel tee is leaking too badly to continue trying to adjust them on the bike-what I was hoping to avoid tampering with, but no dice. Now, using Paul Musser's rebuild guide as a bible during my tasks, he simply says that in order to separate the carbs you need to remove the backing plate & then tug away ... in so many words. But, he makes no mention of breaking down either the throttle/slider linkage nor starter plunger linkage.

I popped the lid of No.1 & No.4 carb's slider housings, and I can certainly see what appears to be a set screw (bolt) locking each slider elbow to the throttle shaft. And of course each starter plunger is finger-linked to its' central shaft-no biggie there. And so now I'm confused: How could these bodies possibly separate without at least backing out the slider's set screws & the plunger's finger-lift screws? Did Paul miss a few vital steps in his write up or am I overthinking things?? I'd really like to avoid syncing these guys at least initially, cause right now they're mechanically factory spot on.

All advice greatly appreciated in advance. Just don't want to start breaking things down if I can avoid it. Thanks again

[Steve]

You need to undo all of the enrichener fingers and slide the shaft out the left side.

You need to undo all FIVE setscrews on the throttle shaft (the fifth one is the cable pulley)

You need to remove the screw and clamp near the #2 carb that holds the throttle shaft in place, then remove the shaft

Then you can remove the eight screws that hold the carbs to the plate and "tug them apart".

.

[Steve]

Okay...so I've rebuilt my rack of VM26SS carbs as a whole (rack intact; unseparated),

Just a quick reminder that shortcuts are usually just opportunities to do the job over and do it right.

There is no proper way to rebuild the carbs without unganging them.

.

[alke46]

Steve is telling you right. Not doing it right the 1st time only leads to doing it over and over until you learn to do it the right way. Got any Berryman's carb cleaner on hand? If not it will be one of the best investments you can make to get those carbs spotless on the inside as well as the outside.

[hepgeek]

If it helps any, I just totally broke-down/cleaned/reassembled a VM29 set and it wasn?t that bad. And I?m a total noob. Get yourself a good blow-up diagram, a six pack, and set aside a couple hours. I needed an impact driver to loosen the carb rack screws. I don?t know how I?ve lived this long without this awesome tool in my life. My carbs were super clean on the surface from the PO, but once I got everything apart the jets and fuel passages were totally gunked up. I?ve got a new set of fuel o-rings from cycleorings.com that didn?t fit my VM29. If you want them, send me a PM and they?re yours for the cost of postage.

[Big T]

You need to determine which fuel T you have
On a 78, it's likely the rubberized one, rather than the O ring one.

The rubberized one can be renewed by soaking it in gas. You can do this while you totally break down the carbs and replace the O rings on the choke lifter.

If that does not work, you'll have to find a new T and the other 2 connectors, with O rings.

[Big T]

Oh, and get some JIS screwdrivers, unless you're replacing all of the screws. Nothing on the carbs needs more than just beyond finger tight

[Guest]

Thanks again, guys. Yeah...it wasn't so much as trying to be lazy, just not wanting to disturb that weak link (tee). BigT: Yup, it's the rubberized variety. I think it's too far gone to try resurrect (it not only spins up and down but also rocks side to side within its' inner walls). I have two different o-ring tees pending delivery because neither design listed the '78 750E fitment & I'm unsure which length is correct of the two designs available. The 1-2 & 3-4 fuel links seem okay so fingers crossed they survive the dismantle.
alke46: Yup, I gots the Berrymans gallon on hand from the start, so a dunkin' we will go! I only hope the fresh o-rings will survive the dismantle/re-assemble without self destructing (hoping silicone injections before/after will avoid this).
Steve: Of course, you're right once again Big thanks for breaking down the process thoroughly for me/us. I'm wondering if Basscliff would edit Paul's write up to support the task...hmmmm.

Carb rack is off the bike; breakdown/dunks begins tonight (one carb at a time).

Thanks again, y'all. I'll post my progress soon.

[steve murdoch]

If it helps any, I just totally broke-down/cleaned/reassembled a VM29 set and it wasn’t that bad. And I’m a total noob. Get yourself a good blow-up diagram, a six pack, and set aside a couple hours. I needed an impact driver to loosen the carb rack screws. I don’t know how I’ve lived this long without this awesome tool in my life. My carbs were super clean on the surface from the PO, but once I got everything apart the jets and fuel passages were totally gunked up. I’ve got a new set of fuel o-rings from cycleorings.com that didn’t fit my VM29. If you want them, send me a PM and they’re yours for the cost of postage.

If you are still in need of the fuel tee o-rings, Z1Enterprises will have what you need.

https://www.z1enterprises.com/carb-and-fuel/carb-parts/29mm-smoothbore.html

[Big T]

The rubberized T will swell up quite a bit of you soak it in gas.

I just did one, no problem

[Guest]

I’m just finishing up my carb rebuild and it is a first for me. I replaced all the orings and even after new orings the fuel t will still spin fairly easily but when installing the t I had to put quite a bit of pressure to get the t and rings to “pop” into place and I’m not expecting any leakage...hope not anyway

[bwringer]

For the "rubberized" style fuel tee, I've had success with carefully cutting the "fake o-ring" ridges off with a razor, then installing o-rings. Basically, leave the rest of the coating in place, make circumferential cuts then a crosswise nick to remove the "o-ring-ish" bits, then install o-rings.

[Nessism]

For the "rubberized" style fuel tee, I've had success with carefully cutting the "fake o-ring" ridges off with a razor, then installing o-rings. Basically, leave the rest of the coating in place, make circumferential cuts then a crosswise nick to remove the "o-ring-ish" bits, then install o-rings.

This strikes me as an excellent workaround solution. Maybe not as elegant as buying a metal Tee w/O-rings, but cheaper and it should work nicely as long as you get the old rubber off the Tee down to clean metal. Key thing here is to have a smooth surface for the O-ring to crush down against. Even the slightest bit of material across the sealing surface can lead to a leak. I've seen O-rings leak after just a few fibers from some work gloves laid across the O-ring. Gasoline loves to find small gaps and escape.

[bwringer]

This strikes me as an excellent workaround solution. Maybe not as elegant as buying a metal Tee w/O-rings, but cheaper and it should work nicely as long as you get the old rubber off the Tee down to clean metal. Key thing here is to have a smooth surface for the O-ring to crush down against. Even the slightest bit of material across the sealing surface can lead to a leak. I've seen O-rings leak after just a few fibers from some work gloves laid across the O-ring. Gasoline loves to find small gaps and escape.

Good point. I peeled off some thin strips of emery cloth and polished up the metal surface. And of course you have to make sure not to make any nicks with the knife.

Fiddly, but it can be done in a pinch. But overall, it's best and easiest to just buy a new tee.

[Guest]

Wow-didn't see this thread build up till now!! Catch up: I've got three carbs built back up, w/no. 4 in the dunk. As luck would have it I've had 3 o-rings fail extraction, so had to order new kits from Robert. Also wasn't confident that the rubberized fuel rails would hold up, so ordered up two new brass ones (all parts arrived USPS today). I expect to have the rack put back together by tomorrow afternoon.

bwringer: I like the slot cutting idea & will keep it in mind for the future. But right now I'm not willing to risk anymore lost riding time . So, not wanting to break these down yet again 'cause of a huntch', I'm gonna go with the brass/o-ring rail set. Really like the idea, thou...might try on next rebuild!!

Steve: This second go-around has taught me a lot! I'm now seeing all that I missed from bypassing a full tear down. I too am much wiser. Thanks once again for your wisdom .

Thanks again, guys! Hoping to get this gal running by Sunday. Will post back soon.