The bike continues to charge but opposite to what it should do. 14.5 at 2500rpm and then drops to 13.2-13.5 when i rev to 5000. Cliff thinks I've an intermittent short but this happens cold or hot and all three legs of the stator read 0 or open when i test for resistance,so why is it charging at all? These non logical electrical gremlins drive me crazy! I've cleaned and checked all connections, done a direct wire from stator to r/r and it still persists a condition where no charge should be occurring and still generates enough electricity to keep me and my electric vest charging. Very Very strange. Any other insights or "opine's" are quite welcome....cheers PK
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i think the regulator, or ground circuit for the regulator/battery system may be at fault. Or B+ from the regulator to the battery. The wiring does go thru a harness plug. See if you can run a temp wire from regulator ground to battery ground, and from regulator output to battery B+ directly. (this is for testing at this point). If that doesn't work, than i would try a "known to be good" regulator. -
Yes I think the above poster is right. One bike I had did something similiar and came down to the basics. Poor grounds and corroded connections.
I have only experienced 2 bad RR's and both times the voltage went high not low. Although others could have had different experiences.
Chris1983 750 Katana
1982 750 Katana (parts use)
1983 RZ350Comment
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good grounds and what about the lack of resistance in the Stator?
So I've already done the R/R rewire with ground to battery and a second to frame, bypassing the harness to connect directly with the stator, and going over every ground and connector using bare metal and die-electric paste.
The oddest part is that the stator with no resistance between any of the poles should not be charging at ALL! Another very experienced member of this board has also gone over the wiring and it should work correctly or not at all. Unless it is all Sparks and Magic
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Stator's probably fried.Comment
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This is a common problem and usually occurs when you have a bad connection between the battrey + and the R/R (+). Depending on your bike it could be a bullet connector between the battery (+) and teh fuse box. If you run direct wire on the plus side the voltage should not fold back as you are seeing.
Possible but dont go there yet..............
I hope you have not put a wire between the stator and the battery
Do you mean R/R and battery? If so which side (+) or (-)?
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[QUOTE=nert;1232969]Or B+ from the regulator to the battery. The wiring does go thru a harness plug. See if you can run a temp wire from regulator ground to battery ground, and from regulator output to battery B+ directly. (this is for testing at this point). QUOTE]
Most likely I would sayComment
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This is the second time you mention connecting the stator to the battery; that is a NO-NO
The resistance seems to be less than 0.5 ohms so unless you have a good meter you may not be able to even measure it.
If you open look voltage measurements from the stator pages work the stator is probably OK. The fact you charge at all say it is probably OK.Comment
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Clarifications and Thanks!
You guys are amazing, you've just put lots of diagnostic tools in my toolbox and once again this list is proving just how valuable a resource it is.
To clarify; no stator to battery, it's the ground wire from the R/R to the battery ground and another to frame. The direct wires are the three stator wires to R/R and that advice about the red + wire directly to battery+ is one I will try tomorrow.
PS anyone want a brand new in box Ricks Stator
Thanks again folks!! PK
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What bike?
Did you do the two voltage measurements from +/+ and -/-?
Finally STEP #3.) Perform Stator Paper Checks. The stator pages checks are not perfect, but they are designed to help you through a process of elimination in determining what is wrong with your charging system. The good news about doing steps #1 and #2 above first, is that when the stator pages say to check your connections you know you already have done it. Here is the update.
http://www.thegsresources.com/statorpapers4.php
Link to Revised PHASE A of Stator Pages:
ORIGINAL_STATOR_PAGES
Last edited by posplayr; 11-16-2015, 06:42 PM.Comment
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Epistle's
I've been following the Stator papers as I do these checks and I think I may have misunderstood some of the conclusions. When I saw the reading I had I couldn't make sense of them and I should have just soldiered on. I'll probably keep the new stator as a spare as I have a couple of other projects on the go.I've just read and downloaded the update to the stator papers and it seems very comprehensive. Thanks for your help truly appreciated. cheers Paul
ps how do we make donations to this site?Comment
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A positive check on things being in proper working order are the tests in Phase 1. To get out of that you should have an increasing output voltage from just about 13V at fast idle to 14.5 ish at 5K RPM. The voltage drops across positive and negative terminal will confirm that the resistance is low enough but only at load (i.e. 5K rpm)
It sounds like connections to me. It was only recently that I found my bullet connection between battery and fuse box to be the culprit. Since it is a crappy connector it was OK when brand spanking new, but quickly degraded. Use dielectric grease as well.
Donations link from home page.
Last edited by posplayr; 06-22-2010, 11:17 AM.Comment
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The solution!
Again my many thanks; the + connection from fuse block to starter relay to battery + WAS corroded. It's not anymore and the charging system checks out perfectly. A steady charge from idle 13v to 14.3 at 4-5k rpm. Thanks for challenging me about the use of a meter. I have a brand new meter(the good one) and it rarely comes out of the wrapping as I have an old (35yr) meter that 'still works'. The old meter is retired now ' cept for road trips and the new meter which actually measures correctly is staying on the workbench! I'm going to check and disassemble the - side now and using the new meter discovered that the stator in my 850 is probably also just fine. I've had a 20 year hiatus from Suzuki's but it's all coming back to me. Thanks again for your help and your patience.
I'm going to remove the ignition switch and see how things look in there as well as i see one leg of the red goes to that switch.. I've purchased die electric grease and every connection is getting the treatment now.What a relief to finally figure out whats up with my charging system.
My schematic from BassCliff's website shows either a separate wire running from fuse block + directly to battery+ but the line on the schematic is lighter and I'm just wondering if that means "it also functions as" instead of a complete separate wire.
Cheers PaulComment
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