New coils - still lose 1&4 after bike is hot

[Fergie]

Those two O/W wires should power your coils.
The last pic look like either the stator wires or the Regulator.

There is a previously installed coil relay mod on the bike; how would the two O/W wires power the coils if the coils are receiving power from the relay mod? Or I am missing the point completely?

[Fergie]

Hi,

The picture of your wiring diagram is a little small. But you are correct in that one leg of the stator connects to both the regulator and rectifier. It seems you do have a loop of wire going to a headlight switch. Is there a physical headlight switch on your bike?

I'll study the diagram some more when I get home from work. I'm just about outta here.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

Cliff,

Yes, I have an actual switch for the headlight, as well as a High/Low switch for the light.

I've got the combo unit on order right now, but am really confused on the wiring.

As mentioned in a previous post, someone said that the OW wires should power the coils. However, the previous owner's coil relay mod has a white wire that fed the coils directly from the relay; is that correct, or is it installed wrong?

Thanks,
Gavin

[posplayr]

Cliff,

Yes, I have an actual switch for the headlight, as well as a High/Low switch for the light.

I've got the combo unit on order right now, but am really confused on the wiring.

As mentioned in a previous post, someone said that the OW wires should power the coils. However, the previous owner's coil relay mod has a white wire that fed the coils directly from the relay; is that correct, or is it installed wrong?

Thanks,
Gavin

It sounds OK but without a schematic who knows. O/W is the OEM color code for the ignition and coil power. There are different ways to wire the coil relay mod. Your PO apparently hacked his harness and ran extra wires directly from the relay output to the coils after removing the O/W wires from coils (+).

The other way to do it is to disconnect the O/W from the output of the start switch ( this can be done in the headlamp bucker for E's) and find some place to power the entire O/W ignition circuit from the coil relay output. This retains almost all of the stock wiring. I power my ignition circuit at the ignitor plug. Coils and ignitor are the only things on the O/W circuit.

As long as the circuit is connected correctly and your description sounds OK (the bike was running right?) should be OK.

[trippivot]

but am really confused on the wiring.

or is it installed wrong?

I see the problem . you need some extra ignition coil smoke from a similar bike to put back into your harness.

no seriously, as it drops 1 and 4 can you get 12V reading at both coil small terminals?
that will tell you which direction to concentrate your efforts.

[Fergie]

I see the problem . you need some extra ignition coil smoke from a similar bike to put back into your harness.

no seriously, as it drops 1 and 4 can you get 12V reading at both coil small terminals?
that will tell you which direction to concentrate your efforts.

I'm sorry, I don't follow; extra smoke?

I need to focus on getting my wiring straight before I get back to the troubleshooting portion. In my haste to troubleshoot and fix things, I've just confused myself even more, and mucked up my wiring harness!

[trippivot]

yeah smoke!!

there is a little cloud if it inside any electrical device

[Fergie]

yeah smoke!!

there is a little cloud if it inside any electrical device

Gotcha...a little levity for a stressful situation wouldnt be bad for me!

[trippivot]

laughter is good medicine- next to a california prescription for "smoke"

LOL

[trippivot]

just kidding on the last smoke joke

[Fergie]

True, but what I really want, more than to be relaxed, is to get my bike back together.

I maybe have an hour's worth of riding time on it, and I want it fully functional to use as my commuter so I can put my LC in the garage for some work.

This wiring thing has me the most concerned, so hopefully these knowledgeable folks like Chef, Posplayr and Cliff can get me squared away and up and running!

[Fergie]

Quick dumb question, namely because I do not have my manual in front of me; what is the item circled in yellow?

[Guest]

Quick dumb question, namely because I do not have my manual in front of me; what is the item circled in yellow?

Starter solenoid.

[posplayr]

Quick dumb question, namely because I do not have my manual in front of me; what is the item circled in yellow?

That is the solenoid. You will notice the Y/G wire that is coming from your start button on the right hand control. The solenoid is activation coil is grounded to it's own case so you have to make sure that side plate to grounded to frame/battery negative or your starter will not turn over.

That thin little wire on the right hand bolt securing it carries all fo the R/R return currents ; that is an OE design flaw. See my thread on grounding to improve things.

Personally would get a Honda R/R from Duanage and get rid of the combo R and R.

[Fergie]

That is the solenoid. You will notice the Y/G wire that is coming from your start button on the right hand control. The solenoid is activation coil is grounded to it's own case so you have to make sure that side plate to grounded to frame/battery negative or your starter will not turn over.

That thin little wire on the right hand bolt securing it carries all fo the R/R return currents ; that is an OE design flaw. See my thread on grounding to improve things.

Personally would get a Honda R/R from Duanage and get rid of the combo R and R.

The Duaneage unit is on order, and I've already started on the grounding issues, per your write-ups.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Yes, a combo r/r unit from Mr. duaneage will simplify your wiring issues.

After removing the separate regulator and rectifier you can connect the three stator wires directly to the r/r input wires. The red output wire from the r/r (which is the same as the red output wire from your current rectifier) will go through that 15 amp fuse and to the battery positive. The other two wires on the duaneage r/r unit will be "ground" and "sense". The ground wire (probably green) will get connected directly to your battery negative and the sense wire will connect to a switched 12v source, usually the tail light near the brake switch.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff