Why does Suzuki split R/R + output between ignition and battery?

[posplayr]

The only advantage that I can see in that scenario is that if, for some reason, the MAIN fuse blows after the bike is running, the bike still gets full power from the R/R. The battery won't charge, but the bike will run.

By re-routing the R/R output directly to the battery, ALL electrical power that the bike uses (except for the starter) will have to go through the MAIN fuse all the time. If you add up all the loads: headlight, 5A, ignition, 8A, brake light 2.5A (if you have a single bulb, 5A if double), then hit the horn, you might blow the main fuse (we're not even considering the turn signals here). Might want to install a 20A fuse, jsut to be sure.

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That is an advantage if you happen to have a blow main fuse at the top of a big hill

[Steve]

The only advantage that I can see in that scenario is that if, for some reason, the MAIN fuse blows after the bike is running, the bike still gets full power from the R/R. The battery won't charge, but the bike will run.

By re-routing the R/R output directly to the battery, ALL electrical power that the bike uses (except for the starter) will have to go through the MAIN fuse all the time. If you add up all the loads: headlight, 5A, ignition, 8A, brake light 2.5A (if you have a single bulb, 5A if double), then hit the horn, you might blow the main fuse (we're not even considering the turn signals here). Might want to install a 20A fuse, just to be sure.

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[posplayr]

For some reason Suzuki splits the R/R positive output and sends juice into both the ignition switch and the fuse box...which then goes over to the battery.

Why does Suzuki send unfused power over to the ignition switch? Checking what other manufacturers do shows Honda sends all the R/R + output over to the battery (via the fuse box), none of this splitting business like Suzuki.

On my 1000S I wired the R/R output to split and feed both the fuse box and the ignition switch. Wiring the system this way results in 14 volts at the battery even though the R/R output is 14.5 volts. I've got one of Posplayer's (recommended) Compufire R/R's on the way so now I'm contemplating how to wire it.

What are the pros and cons of Suzuki's wiring method. I' leaning toward the direct to battery method but electrical is not my strength so thought I'd ask the question now.

EDIT: See this link for gory details.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showpost.php?p=1913839&postcount=28

I thought this had been covered already ????

First if all you are going is changing the R/R, then I would prefer retaining the stock configuration which is to retain the split. I know some people go direct from R/R output to the battery but this pushes more current through the fusebox's main fuse.

The Reason the Suzuki design makes sense is:

a.) about 14 amps of current is supplied to the electrical system from the R/R when the R/R is not shorting the stator. About 3 amps of this is charging current that goes to the battery.

b.) current is supplied to the electrical system from the battery alone when the R/R is shorted (about 11 amps) or the engine is off and the stator is not producing enough to generate the required 11 amps.

c.) The battery and R/R are tied together to feed the ignition switch because they are both sources depending on how much the R/R can provide.

The main fuse is there to stop the battery from shorting out, for example into the R/R if the R/R were to develop a short to ground at the (+) output leg.

All other currents are protected by one of the down stream fuse legs (after power goes to the ignition switch and returns to the fuse box).

If you choose the direct method, experience has it you need to boost the series fuse from 15amps to 20 amps else it will blow occasionally.

Good luck with the Compufire, if you have a temp gauge, monitor before after temps.

I've wondered about that myself.

[Nessism]

For some reason Suzuki splits the R/R positive output and sends juice into both the ignition switch and the fuse box...which then goes over to the battery.

Why does Suzuki send unfused power over to the ignition switch? Checking what other manufacturers do shows Honda sends all the R/R + output over to the battery (via the fuse box), none of this splitting business like Suzuki.

On my 1000S I wired the R/R output to split and feed both the fuse box and the ignition switch. Wiring the system this way results in 14 volts at the battery even though the R/R output is 14.5 volts. I've got one of Posplayer's (recommended) Compufire R/R's on the way so now I'm contemplating how to wire it.

What are the pros and cons of Suzuki's wiring method. I' leaning toward the direct to battery method but electrical is not my strength so thought I'd ask the question now.